Take #2...Hood Summit

[ronmalcomson]

hi all, I just joined the site and I have a few questions regarding a summit attempt.
This will be my second try, I tried to summit last August and was reminded why this was such a bad time of the year to climb to the summit. But I think my failure was mainly related to taking a wrong "trail" from timberline. i left at 1:30 am thinking I was on the right trail-head but the trail (from the east lot) ended-up 'dead ending' into the bottom of a revene. I saw the light of other climber ahead of me on the mountain so I thought it would eventually lead back to where I needed to be. After 2 hours the sides of the revene' got really high (on both sides) and the softball sized that I easily stepped over slowly turned into rocks the size of small cars. I finally decided to glove-up and climb out. Once I made it back to the 'right trail' and to the top of palmer i was spent. I made it to 9400' feet before realizing it was too late and much TOO dangerous, with all the rocks falling in the mid-morning sun.
I am going again. I am undecided if I want to push through in one day-departing again around 1am OR if I want to get to timberline at a reasonable hour-mid morning hiking to hogs back and throwing a tent. ??? I have never camped out in the snow before, but there's a 1st for everything, right?
I have some gear: shovel, 70lt pack, 20 C bag, extra thermal blanket, jet stove, cramps, poles, GPS's, lamps, rope, ice-axe, radio's, etc. etc... I think the only thing left to buy is a helmet.
ANYWAY-QUESTION-
Do I go throw a tent? or hike through the night? if tent, where in relation to Hogs Back is "safer" then others? Ie off East edge, ridge line, etc..? Oh AND am I just CRAZY to go "solo", You and I know that there will be A LOT of other climbers up there, especially on a Friday/Saturday. "weather permitting"

[retired jerry]

yes, crazy

The difficult part is going up the hogsback and then up from there. Sometimes people slide and fall into crevasse and die. And some of the rescuers too. Or die in a blizzard.

Normally, people rope up into a group and if one falls, the others can stop.

You need to practice self arrest with ice axe. Fall on steep slope with run out so you can't hurt yourself, then practice stopping.

Maybe do some organized class like the Mazamas

"just" going up to the hogsback is pretty nice. The view on that side is just about the same as from the summit. You eliminate most of the danger.

[pcg]

the trail (from the east lot) ended-up 'dead ending' into the bottom of a revene. I saw the light of other climber ahead of me on the mountain so I thought it would eventually lead back to where I needed to be. After 2 hours the sides of the revene' got really high (on both sides) and the softball sized that I easily stepped over slowly turned into rocks the size of small cars. I finally decided to glove-up and climb out.

Just so you know, that ravine is a terrain trip in winter. If you're not sure what that is, I advise you to forget summiting for now and learn how to travel in avalanche terrain first.

I have never camped out in the snow before, but there's a 1st for everything, right?

Learn to snow-camp in a safer location first. This... http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopi ... 61&start=0

I have some gear: ...rope...

Without placing proper protection, a rope just ensures that whoever you are tied to will also fall when you fall. If you are not experienced in leading or following on a rope team, then you need to learn how to do that before you rope up with someone else.

Weather windows in January are often the safest time to climb Mt. Hood for those experienced in snow climbing in the winter. If you don't have a lot of experience in this area, I advise waiting for a window in early summer, after the snow has consolidated and avalanche danger has passed, and it is still cold enough that the mountain isn't crumbling around you. Meantime you can build your snow camping and avalanche skills. If you want the security of being on a rope, then you need to learn those skills as well.

Another suggestion... find an experienced person to go with or hire a guide. Hiring a guide is expensive, but if you want to learn skills fast it is money well-spent.

[Bosterson]

I'm going to 2nd everything that PCG said. Judging by your questions, it sounds like you may need some more experience before you attempt Hood at all, let alone solo. (Note: a helmet is one of the first things you'd want to be sure to have!)

Hood seems like a walk-up from Timberline, but the top of it is an actual mountain, and people die there every year. No one camps up near the Hogsback (the only "flat" spot would be down in Devil's Kitchen); everyone on the South Side does it as a day trip, leaving at night and coming back in the morning. If you're not fit enough to do that, you should probably work on fitness first - the harder part is above the Hogsback.

I'd recommend finding a more experienced partner to learn some mountaineering skills on easier mountains first. You can look for prospective partners over at Cascade Climbers.

You might also consider taking the Mazamas BCEP (basic mountaineering) course. There might still be time/space to sign up before it starts next month.

[Water]

i climbed hood yesterday and skied down from 10,800ft, top of the hogsback.

heed all advice here. your best bet is to hire a guide or go through mazamas BCEP course. With where you are at thinking about this, finding a stranger on the internet is not a good idea, you might meet someone like yourself with plenty of enthusiasm but a lack of experience. Somehow going up the wrong way strikes me as a red flag to begin with. Unless you have honed your map reading, research, and planning skills since then, you need to build up to this.

One safe thing to do (assuming you can start on the right route-one tip is to follow the lift towers that point straight towards the top of the mnt) would be to start at the parking lot and plan to be at the top of palmer snowfield (the last lift/lift building) at sunrise, or 20 minutes before sunrise, something. This will let you test yourself in snow and darkness and navigation. Do it in clear weather first, following the lifts. Then you could try it again in bad weather, following the lifts. It's not glorious or anything but the view from the top of the palmer lift is excellent and it will help with cardio.

[kepPNW]

Scads of great advice here, from folks far more experienced up there than I. Just wanted to add that there are a good number of bivy spots in the 9000-10000' range, which in August are likely bare. Anyone wanting to crash up there probably oughta do so below Crater Rock...

• 
  @9600', 20-Aug-2016

[Guy]

No disrespect but please heed the advice given by pcg, Bosterson & Water. based on your initial post you are not ready for this and certainly not ready for a solo attempt.

[Chip Down]

Congrats on attempting, and bravo on your determination.

Tips:

Don't be in a hurry. This isn't the best time of year.

No, don't make it a two-day trip. It's an easy day trip. If your fitness level requires two days, train more.

Start with some exploring and experimenting. Staying on safe terrain near developed areas, gain confidence in your knowledge of the terrain, how the mountain looks from various angles, etc. Have fun on the mountain, and don't worry about getting to the summit on your next outing.

On a crowded weekend, you'll have no trouble finding the right route. Just follow the conga line of headlamps. Don't rely too much on others though, as obviously that can turn into a lemming line. And don't follow another party too closely, as you'll look like a tagalong. And recognize that although there's safety in numbers, you can get caught up in somebody else's drama.

Finally, I want to honor your dignity and all that, but I wish to respectfully observe that it does seem you're a bit out of your element here. There are some extremely fun rewarding adventurous trips in the cascades where you can hone your skills and gradually work up to greater challenges. In my twenties, I had summit lust, and had to check off the routes on my to-do list. I cringe now, thinking of the crazy things I did. Don't be like me. But if you disregard our warnings and you recklessly go off on a summit quest, I won't criticize, because I'd be a huge hypocrite. Good luck, be safe, have fun!

[Koda]

Normally, people rope up into a group and if one falls, the others can stop.

.

please don't do this. This is not the norm and hasn't been for many years in mountaineering. If there is a risk of falling you need to place anchors and belay...

[Koda]

hi all, I just joined the site and I have a few questions regarding a summit attempt.
This will be my second try, I tried to summit last August and was reminded why this was such a bad time of the year to climb to the summit. But I think my failure was mainly related to taking a wrong "trail" from timberline. i left at 1:30 am thinking I was on the right trail-head but the trail (from the east lot) ended-up 'dead ending' into the bottom of a revene. I saw the light of other climber ahead of me on the mountain so I thought it would eventually lead back to where I needed to be. After 2 hours the sides of the revene' got really high (on both sides) and the softball sized that I easily stepped over slowly turned into rocks the size of small cars. I finally decided to glove-up and climb out. Once I made it back to the 'right trail' and to the top of palmer i was spent. I made it to 9400' feet before realizing it was too late and much TOO dangerous, with all the rocks falling in the mid-morning sun.
I am going again. I am undecided if I want to push through in one day-departing again around 1am OR if I want to get to timberline at a reasonable hour-mid morning hiking to hogs back and throwing a tent. ??? I have never camped out in the snow before, but there's a 1st for everything, right?
I have some gear: shovel, 70lt pack, 20 C bag, extra thermal blanket, jet stove, cramps, poles, GPS's, lamps, rope, ice-axe, radio's, etc. etc... I think the only thing left to buy is a helmet.
ANYWAY-QUESTION-
Do I go throw a tent? or hike through the night? if tent, where in relation to Hogs Back is "safer" then others? Ie off East edge, ridge line, etc..? Oh AND am I just CRAZY to go "solo", You and I know that there will be A LOT of other climbers up there, especially on a Friday/Saturday. "weather permitting"

to answer your question, neither. Based on what I read here you need to find an experienced mountaineer to be your mentor and/or take some mountaineering classes. Adding a tent and more gear isn't going to help with the mountaineering skills or the fitness required. Its a whole different world up there once you hit the hogsback. August is the wrong time to climb whether you camp or not.

I say that with all due respect, nothing wrong with wanting to learn and get up there even some trial and error but it has to be done right.