Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
Oregon's Rogue River flows some 215 miles from its headwaters at Boundary Springs within Crater Lake National Park to the Pacific Ocean at Gold Beach, Oregon. Although not as large as the Columbia or the Willamette, it is nonetheless one of Oregon's iconic rivers. It's been in our hearts for years but only recently have we had the time to give it the attention it deserves. Between 2012 and 2016, we hiked (in sections) the entire Upper Rogue River Trail (USFS #1034) as it roughly parallels the river from near Boundary Springs to Prospect, Oregon. In 2015, we backpacked the famous Rogue River Trail (USFS #1160) from Grave Creek and Foster Bar (post) and also did a rafting day trip from Robertson Bridge to Grave Creek. In 2016, we bolstered the local economy again with a multi-day rafting trip on the Wild and Scenic Rogue from Grave Creek to Foster Bar (post). After attending a presentation earlier this year by Gabriel Howe of the Siskiyou Mountain Club on their 2015 restoration of the Wild Rogue Loop, we knew we had to hike it. With lingering snow keeping us from the High Cascades and parts of the Siskiyou Crest, now seemed like just the time to do this lower-altitude loop. This loop through the northeast quadrant of the Wild Rogue Wilderness can be done in either direction or as a lollipop from Foster Bar or Grave Creek, but we opted to hike it counter-clockwise starting from Tucker Flat. This was primarily to avoid any surprises with the two crossings of Mule Creek and also to hike down, not up, the Clay Hill Trail. These creek crossings can be very dangerous or impassable during Spring high water - better to find that out when turning back only involves a few miles! And, for us at least, going down the Clay Hill Trail seemed to be the less arduous option.
Day 1: Tucker Flat to West Fork Mule Creek
We reached the Mule Creek South Trailhead at Tucker Flat from the south via the Grave Creek to Marial Backcountry Byway; access from the north is easiest via Glendale, Oregon. Trailhead parking at Tucker Flat was fine for us but has been reported to be difficult weekends and holidays during high season. There is a pit toilet at the trailhead.
Parking for the Mule Creek Trail at the far end of Tucker Flat Campground
Shortly after leaving the trailhead, the Mule Creek Trail (USFS #1159) [called the West Fork Trail by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), who manages this portion of the wilderness] crosses a bridge over the deep gorge of the main branch of Mule Creek.
The bridge over the gorge in lower Mule Creek
One thing we noticed about some of these trails was how much they owe their existence to the irrationally exuberant hunt for precious metals. For example, the 1954 USGS map for Marial shows that the Mule Creek Trail (and likely the bridge) only runs as far as a prospect up the West Fork. Past the bridge, the trail starts a slow but steady climb toward Panther Ridge, some 3,000 feet above. We weren't exactly looking forward to this climb now that summer weather was finally upon us (air temperatures were approaching triple digits down in the valley), but the trail's gentle grade, along with ample shade and a cooling breeze, made the going almost pleasant. We'd also planned this first day as short one, so we could take our time and stop to cool-off as needed. We also carried - and drank - a lot of water.
The trail climbs along sunburnt slopes
We reached the first creek crossing after a mile or so,
Our first crossing of Mule Creek
then went up and down again on another stretch of sunbaked trail,
Up the sunny trail
to our second crossing of the creek. At this time of year, these were just rock-hops but we could see how their crossing could be a very risky (or insane) endeavor in high water. This crossing is your last reliable and accessible source of water until you reach the campsites in the upper West Fork.
Our second crossing of Mule Creek
The trail then continued its ascent through mixed forests, along cliffs and scree slopes.
Along the Mule Creek Trail
It was in this stretch that the LovedOne just missed stepping on a Northern Pacific rattlesnake (Crotalus oreganus oreganus) - a subspecies of western rattlesnake indigenous to Oregon - coiled neatly in the middle of the trail. It had the presence of mind to buzz first and then flee the trail, so no harm done to either fang or foot. But that unmistakeable BUZZZZZZ sure did get our FULL attention!
Our local rattlesnake exits the trail
Once our heart rates settled, we continued on. As we gained altitude, we'd occasionally get a glimpse of Hanging Rock way up on Panther Ridge. It was our goal for the next day but looked so far, so very far, away...
Hanging Rock (arrow) from the Mule Creek Trail
Just below 2,200 feet, the trail opened up into an old road bed.
The Mule Creek Trail transitions from trail to old road
After 5.3 miles of hiking with 2,300 feet of elevation gain from Tucker Flat, we reached our campsite in the upper West Fork Mule Creek.
Campsites and ample water in the upper West Fork Mule Creek
It was shady and cool here, with perennial water close by. There are two tent sites near the creek (perhaps too close?), but these were taken, so we set up our tent in the road. The three people camped when we arrived, and two people who passed through doing the loop clockwise, were the only people we saw until we got down to the Rogue River.
Camping on the road among some giant trees
After a restorative nap, the LovedOne broke out her Field Knitting Kit and got to work on her next sweater project.
Fiber arts in the field
While I was making dinner, the LovedOne happened to spot an old telephone insulator pegged to a tree across the creek. Further post-hike research showed that this was likely part of a telephone line to Camp Hope, a USFS forest camp sited near here in the 1950s. Three mines - Camp Hope, North Hope, and West Hope - were also located in this immediate area. A 1983 USGS mineral survey - done as part of the wilderness designation - showed that the entire West Mule Creek drainage between Camp Hope and Tucker Flat was lined with a dozen or so old mines and prospects. It was nice to know these old futilties had now been repurposed in support of a good hike. So, after a day of good, sturdy hiking, a burst of snake-fueled excitement, and a tasty dinner, we crawled into the tent and embraced sleep.
Day 2: West Fork Mule Creek to Brushy Bar
A dry low pressure front with clouds rolled in overnight, temperatures dropped some 10-15 degrees, and we actually had to put on some fleece to get out of the tent and eat breakfast. After packing up, we continued hiking the old road,
Continuing on the old road
to a point where it crosses the wilderness boundary and becomes the remnants of Forest Road (FR) 230. Here, a new trail contoured us over to the end of yet another old road (BLM 32-11-25.1) and that took us to the Buck Point Trailhead at the end of the still functioning part of FR 230. It was here that the clouds dissipated, the sunshine returned, and we were able to hike on in sunny, but pleasantly cool, conditions (at least for awhile).
Sunshine at the Buck Point Trailhead
From the Buck Point Trailhead, we ascended some 1,000 feet on Panther Ridge Trail (USFS #1253) through tall, untouched, magnificent forests,
Talls trees along the Panther Ridge Trail
and extensive fields of rhododendrons, freshened by the morning's clouds and mists,
Fields of rhodies along the Panther Ridge Trail
some still in bloom.
Rhodi blooms along the Panther Ridge Trail
About 9 miles from Tucker Flat, we came to the unsigned, but obvious, junction with the side trail to Hanging Rock, the literal (and one of the metaphorical) high points of our trip. A 40-foot wooden tower sporting an L-4 fire lookout was built here in 1939; it was abandoned in early 1950s and removed sometime thereafter. Old bolts in the rock were all we could find of its existence.
The LovedOne on Hanging Rock
The LovedOne on Hanging Rock, with the Rogue River valley below
After a quick break at Hanging Rock, we continued southwest on the #1253, to a signed junction with the Hanging Rock Spur Trail (#1253-A on the map; #1113 on the USFS website) coming up from the Hanging Rock Trailhead. We continued west on the #1253 as it roller coasted (which, frankly, got a little annoying after awhile) through more primeval forests,
Tall groves and lush beargrass on the Panther Ridge Trail
Huge old-growth trees along the Panther Ridge Trail
past a signed junction and faint trail toward Panther Camp Meadow, and then on to its signed junction with the Clay Hill Trail (USFS #1160A). The Clay Hill starts down quickly,
Starting down the Clay Hill Trail
but then eases off into graceful, wide switchbacks through avenues of tall, spindly chinquapin trees,
An avenue of trees along the Clay Hill Trail
across small meadows,
A rare meadow along the Clay Hill Trail
to the old Thomas Homestead at around 1,200 feet, the first perennial water source since Mule Creek headwaters. There was an uninviting muddy puddle in the trail but you'd have to hunt around some for a trickle of clear water.
Remains of the Thomas cabin, now secured by poison oak vines
Just past the homestead, we got our first glimpse of the Rogue River since Grave Creek,
The Rogue River from the Clay Hill Trail
and continued down in a series of long switchbacks through a steep, and rapidly dessicating, meadow. The thought of actually stepping on a rattlesnake hiding in the grass was a hard one to ignore...
A narrow Clay Hill Trail traverses a steep meadow
Lower down, the trail took us along the east side of Clay Hill Creek (not the west side as shown on the map) through an oak savanna, into more old growth, and down to the Rogue River Trail (USFS #1160). By the time we got to Clay Hill Creek, the day had been more than warm for awhile, and we were hot, sticky, and tired - taking a break by the creek's cool waters was one of life's little BIG pleasures!
By the cool waters of Clay Hill Creek
We had done about 13 miles by the time we reached the Rogue and we'd hoped we could call the day short by camping at Tate Creek, just a half-mile or so upstream. But there was already someone camped there, so we pushed on up the beautiful - but hot - canyon,
Going upstream along the Rogue
to a campsite near Brushy Bar Guard Station, where we had a spacious site, bear box, and outhouse all to ourselves. Brillient! Blossom Bar, with its fresh side creek and easy river access, would have been great but that was a campsite too far on this day.
Happy to be camped at Brushy Bar
We'd traversed some beautiful, pristine country and had been truly awed by Hanging Rock, but it had also been a long and tough day (15.8 miles; 1,100 feet of elevation gain minimum), so we made dinner and collapsed in the tent.
Day 3: Brushy Bar to Tucker Flat
Brushy Bar is not a riverside campsite (but we could hear the river), but it's a very comfortable one, so we both slept soundly and were ready early for our hike out,
Starting out on our last day
past the Brushy Bar Guard Station.
Brushy Bar Guard Station - now with solar!
As the sun topped the ridge,
Along the Rogue River trail heading upstream
we reached the huge meadow at Paradise Bar (there's also a lodge here - nice rooms, excellent food, and beer),
The meadow at Paradise Bar
passed it under a sunny canopy of trees,
Passing Paradise Bar
crossed Bloosom Bar, turned Inspiration Point, and traversed above the narrows in Mule Creek Canyon - stunning views from the trail of the most exciting rafting on the Rogue.
Mule Creek Canyon
Then it was into the trees just before Marial,
Arriving at Marial
along the road, and back to Tucker Flat. Our last day was only 8.1 miles with 300 feet of elevation gain.
End of the trail
There's a lot of great stuff packed into this relatively short backpack: the Wild Rogue Wilderness' beautiful, varied terrain and ecosystems, virgin old growth forests, solitude, big views, the wonder of Hanging Rock, a little mining history, reptiles, and, of course, the Rogue River. At just over 29 miles with 3,700 feet of elevation gain, it's a moderate to difficult backpack done over 3 days (easier if you add a day) but totally worth it! Because it tops out at under 4,000 feet, it's possible to complete the route in fall, spring, summer, and even winter, depending on snow and road conditions, making it an ideal early season adventure (as it was for us).
Our 3-day track along the Wild Rogue Loop
Last edited by VanMarmot on June 25th, 2017, 12:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- retired jerry
- Posts: 14426
- Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:03 pm
Re: Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
thanks for the report, I'll have to try that sometime
rattlesnake, cool, that happened to me in the Trinity Alps a couple years ago
rattlesnake, cool, that happened to me in the Trinity Alps a couple years ago
Re: Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
Very nice. Excellent pictures. Added to my to-do list.
And I've never seen anything quite like the "shoulder straps" on your LovedOne's pack.
And I've never seen anything quite like the "shoulder straps" on your LovedOne's pack.
Re: Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
I just added this loop to the Field Guide - let's give that rattlesnake some more company!retired jerry wrote:thanks for the report, I'll have to try that sometime
rattlesnake, cool, that happened to me in the Trinity Alps a couple years ago
Re: Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
Thanks!texasbb wrote:Very nice. Excellent pictures. Added to my to-do list.
And I've never seen anything quite like the "shoulder straps" on your LovedOne's pack.
That's because she's wearing a ME2 Pack (site) which doesn't have shoulder straps. It's designer/manufacturer is in Roseburg and she designed it for people who, for whatever reason, can't tolerate downward stress on their neck, shoulders, and upper back. After the LovedOne blew a disc in her neck, she could only use a hip pack but it was too small for backpacking. So we got a ME2, tested it on some day hikes, and then used it for this backpack. It worked great! The only joint gear I had to carry was the tent, stove, and food - not a problem. So it looks like we're back in the backpacking game again.
- retired jerry
- Posts: 14426
- Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:03 pm
Re: Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
great, now I can easily find it rather than have to look through trip reports
Re: Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
Interesting design! Has she had any problems with it? Were you able to try one somewhere or did you have to buy it and hope?VanMarmot wrote:That's because she's wearing a ME2 Pack (site) which doesn't have shoulder straps. It's designer/manufacturer is in Roseburg and she designed it for people who, for whatever reason, can't tolerate downward stress on their neck, shoulders, and upper back.
Re: Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
Nice trip report narrative and photos - I like the variety of habitats you passed through. I'd like to do this as well as I need to have a visit to the Rogue River in my life but 29 miles is more than I could do in a day and I don't camp well. However, split into 2 days with an overnight stay at Paradise Bar is doable (single occupancy rate is $250.00 - I'm OK with that given the location). LO's backpack looks interesting.
So you leave your unattended vehicle at the trailhead for 3 days. I don't understand how backpackers can do such things - I'd be worried about broken windows and stolen tires the whole trip - it would totally harsh my hiking vibe.
Thx,
--Paul
So you leave your unattended vehicle at the trailhead for 3 days. I don't understand how backpackers can do such things - I'd be worried about broken windows and stolen tires the whole trip - it would totally harsh my hiking vibe.
Thx,
--Paul
The future's uncertain and the end is always near.
Re: Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
We checked with ME2 first and they have a 30-day trial policy. So we got one and tried it on several day hikes for comfort, fit, balance, carrying capacity, etc. All went well on those hikes so we felt confident taking it on a 3/2 backpack. It worked fine for the LovedOne and brought easy to moderate backpacks back into the picture for us.Webfoot wrote:Interesting design! Has she had any problems with it? Were you able to try one somewhere or did you have to buy it and hope?VanMarmot wrote:That's because she's wearing a ME2 Pack (site) which doesn't have shoulder straps. It's designer/manufacturer is in Roseburg and she designed it for people who, for whatever reason, can't tolerate downward stress on their neck, shoulders, and upper back.
Re: Wild Rogue Loop Backpack 20/22-Jun-2017
Thanks!pablo wrote:Nice trip report narrative and photos -
So you leave your unattended vehicle at the trailhead for 3 days. I don't understand how backpackers can do such things - I'd be worried about broken windows and stolen tires the whole trip - it would totally harsh my hiking vibe.
Maybe I've just been lucky but I've left my truck at trailheads all over Southern Oregon, Northern California, and the Sierras for years with no issues. I think that leaving your car at remote trailheads down here isn't the same, for example, as leaving it at one of the more accessible ones in the Gorge. Others have had issues at Grave Creek but that's a popular day trip spot right on the river and main road (when we did the Rogue River Trail, we paid to have the truck shuttled so we wouldn't have to leave it at Grave Creek). Marial is 30+ miles further along paved & gravel forest roads - not a trip your average car clouter would take on a whim. The trailheads up along Panther Ridge are even more remote. Or you could just think about rattlesnakes as you hike - that certainly takes my mind off of the truck!
If you want to do the loop as a 2-day with an overnight at Paradise, then I'd suggest parking at the Buck Point TH, going west on the Panther Ridge Trail and down the Clay Hill Trail to Paradise the first day, then east on the Rogue River Trail and up the Mule Creek Trail on the second day.