Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

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arundodonax
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Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

Post by arundodonax » July 10th, 2014, 9:43 pm

This was Sierra trip #2 for the summer: the somewhat well-known North Lake to South Lake loop. For those looking for a “starter” Sierra loop, this is it. About 60 miles, that can be done in as little or as much time as you want. (Another shorter option is to come in over Lamarack Col through Darwin Canyon, which still hits all the good stuff). This trip was the 3+ days over the July 4th weekend. The loop is especially nice because it covers all new terrain with only mild hitching or car swap at the beginning or end.

July 3 - Day 0

I left work at the usual time and camped at the Chris Flat campground in Toiyabe—about 2 hours from my final destination in Bishop. This campground is a little pricey ($20/night), but is right on the highway, which makes for a very convenient pit stop.

July 3 - Day 1 - 12 miles

This morning, I woke up early, stopped at the Mono Lake Visitor’s Center for my permit (the secret amongst insiders and “the” place to get permits quickly and easily), did the last 2 hours of driving to Bishop, got my German baked goods at Erik Schaat’s (a required stop in Bishop if you’re ever there), and set off up to the North Lake trailhead. My permit was for Paiute Pass—only about 2k in elevation gain, but as expected, it was slow going for the first few hours because of acclimation. Once you’re at the top, you get great views into Humphries basin. No mosquitos, and the holiday crowds soon tapered off once you were out of day-hiking range. In the basin, there’s an old trail that splits off down to the Golden Trout Lakes—an interesting little area, and no one to be seen. I camped in Hutchinson Meadow.


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The lot was pretty full.


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Loch Leven Lake


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From Paiute Pass


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Humphries Basin


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Upper Golden Trout Lake (oddly, there were lots of Golden Trout).


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Down in to Paiute Canyon


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July 4 - Day 2 - 19 miles

I hiked down Paiute Canyon, down to the San Joaquin river. This river has some great foxtail pine. After a quick stop to refill, I started up towards McClure Meadow, stopped at the waterfalls for lunch, and kept chugging along until Evolution Lake. My goal for the night was the outlet just before Sapphire Lake, which, while I had stayed there before, has a nice sunset, and this time, amazingly had no campers for miles. While there were many day hikers, once you got out of the eastern-side passes, hikers mostly consisted of PCT through hikers and the occasional group—it was far less crowded than I expected for a holiday weekend.


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Bridge over the San Joaquin


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This was the view for most naps. Not bad.


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McClure Meadow


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Evolution Lake


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There’s lots of Golden Trout in the Evolution area

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Sapphire Lake outlet


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July 5 - Day 3 - 17.5 miles

This morning, I did Muir Pass, stopped at the hut for pictures of marmots and pikas, and made my way down into LeConte Canyon. This is probably my favorite part of this section, especially the lakes and trail going down into Leconte—it’s really something special. As I took my daily nap and ate lunch along the river in LeConte, just past Big Pete Meadow, the clouds started forming. It looked as though it was going to pour, but fortunately, there was no thunderstorm. This did make for a much cooler time of the long hike up in to Dusy Basin, however. Dusy was about the only area with bad mosquitos, and then only the lower section was really problematic. I camped in upper Dusy, were the mosquitos were few, the deer were curious, and the sunset was really super.


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Wanda Lake


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So many marmots. So few that want their picture taken.


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Muir Pass


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This pika was pretty friendly though.


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Muir Hut


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Helen Lake


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Down in to Leconte Canyon


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There were dozens of these guys at one lake, along with hundreds of tadpoles


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The waterfalls in Leconte are great—the pictures don’t do them justice

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Foxtail Pine?


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Lower Dusy Basin


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July 6 - Day 4 - 13 miles

This last day was 2 miles to Bishop Pass, then down the 6 miles to South Lake. Again, because it was within dayhiking range, there were many more people than otherwise were on the trail. The final push was a hitch back to North Lake. It was super easy to get a hitch back to the Sabrina intersection, but then took a bit of roadwalking before I found someone to get a ride back to the car—all in all not more than 1.5 hrs.


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Bishop Pass


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These two ladies walked in front of me on the trail for about 1/4 mile


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See all those dots on the lake? Those are fish. Why didn’t I stop to take a picture at the lake? Why are the fish so jumpy? Alaska-level skeeters.


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Long Lake on the way out.


This is one of the best parts of the Sierra: it’s super accessible and makes for a great shorter or longer trip. I always enjoy the Sierras, and this weekend was no different.

63.5 miles, 10750' gained, 3 nights

olderthanIusedtobe
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Re: Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

Post by olderthanIusedtobe » July 10th, 2014, 10:14 pm

Great trip! My brother and I did the shortened version years ago, starting from South Lake and exiting at North Lake via Darwin Canyon/Lamarck Col/Lamarck Lakes. We hitched a ride part way but had to do some road walking as well. I did an out and back to Dusy Basin later on solo. Stayed 2 nights at the highest lake and dayhiked further south via Thunderbolt Pass to the Barrett Lakes and beyond. Dusy Basin is right at the top of my list for favorite places in California, it's gorgeous. Did an out and back to Humphreys Basin about a year ago. Mt. Humpreys is pretty sweet (didn't climb it, just gazed at it).

I've definitely noticed the yellow bellied marmots down there in Cali seem to be more shy than the hoary marmots I encounter frequently up north here in Washington. Had a couple interesting critter encounters in that area. Saw a nice big healthy looking coyote (as opposed to kinda scrawny scraggly looking ones you see sometimes) in the upper Dusy Basin during the middle of the day. It kept on the move and was always ducking behind trees or boulders so I couldn't get a pic of it. The other was the darnedest thing. Just a few minutes up the trail from South Lake I became aware of a commotion on the downhill side of the trail. I stopped for a minute, next thing I know there is a pine marten dragging a trout almost it's own size across the trail and then it continued uphill. I've never seen anything like that before or since.

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Bosterson
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Re: Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

Post by Bosterson » July 10th, 2014, 10:15 pm

*sighhhhh*!!!

:D

Great to see it, I haven't been down there since the JMT in 2012. Lucky you're so much closer to the Sierras!!
#pnw #bestlife #bitingflies #favoriteyellowcap #neverdispleased

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UTurn
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Re: Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

Post by UTurn » July 11th, 2014, 5:42 am

SO, so beautiful!! What an experience!

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retired jerry
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Re: Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

Post by retired jerry » July 11th, 2014, 5:44 am

Another great Sierras report, thanks.

This looks like a good loop.

Someday I'm going to get a trip there.

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miah66
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Re: Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

Post by miah66 » July 11th, 2014, 8:04 am

Spectacular! I'm hoping to do the JMT next year, and your route covers a portion of it. I really can't get enough of hiking in that area, though I've done very little in comparison! Your photos and description are awesome.
"The top...is not the top" - Mile...Mile & a Half

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VanMarmot
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Re: Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

Post by VanMarmot » July 12th, 2014, 6:34 am

Great TR with great photos!

I did this loop for the first time in 1974 and this TR brought back some wonderful memories of this area.

Thanks!

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retired jerry
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Re: Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

Post by retired jerry » July 12th, 2014, 6:42 am

I was just throwing stuff out and looked at old log book.

I did South Lake to Bishop Pass in 1976. Severe headache from the elevation. I don't really remember much of anything.

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Boozeman
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Re: Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

Post by Boozeman » July 12th, 2014, 8:45 pm

That looks like a truly EPIC trip. :o

Thanks for posting all of those amazing pics. That area really packs in a lot of beauty. :)

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arundodonax
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Re: Inyo/Kings Canyon: North Lake to South Lake 7/3-6/14

Post by arundodonax » July 13th, 2014, 1:52 pm

olderthanIusedtobe wrote:Great trip! My brother and I did the shortened version years ago, starting from South Lake and exiting at North Lake via Darwin Canyon/Lamarck Col/Lamarck Lakes.
I definitely want to do Lamarack Col next time—I hear darwin bench is really nice this time of year during flower season. There's too much to see and too little time!
retired jerry wrote:I was just throwing stuff out and looked at old log book. I did South Lake to Bishop Pass in 1976. Severe headache from the elevation. I don't really remember much of anything.
I know how that is! At this point, I've planned in slow going for the first day or so, whenever I'm hiking over about 9k—I just know I'll be winded and headachey if I go faster than a snail's pace uphill. That first 5 miles over Pauite took about 3.5 hours, but on day 2 I was doing much better. I'm envious of those folks who don't have any elevation issues, but fortunate to not have it too bad.

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