Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier (update: return 2020)

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Chip Down
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Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier (update: return 2020)

Post by Chip Down » July 14th, 2019, 5:10 pm

[edit: I just noticed there's a single Muddy Fork. The creek that flows down the parallel canyon to the south is just an un-named tributary. So the route I describe below is simply an attempt up the Muddy Fork to the Sandy Glacier.]

105 weeks ago I followed the Timberline Trail north from Ramona until I reached the south branch of Muddy Fork Creek, then followed it up to Sandy Glacier. It was time to go do the north branch. Why? Well, partly because I was out of ideas. Partly because our member Webfoot once asked if I had done it. Partly because Goaltech Mike says the lower northern part of Sandy Glacier is interesting, which surprised me, because I thought it was boring, as judged from other vantage points. So here's my story.

The plan: From McGee Creek TH, follow trails to the north branch of Muddy Fork, up to the glacier, explore at will, cross over Cathedral Ridge at Co Pass, descend Glisan Gacier down to Timberline Trail.

The trail hike: something old, something new.
I started at McGee Creek TH, which I've been curious about for years. I trudged up the boring forested trail to the junction with Timberline, where I started the big loop around Bald Mountain. But really, I was hoping to avoid that. There's a spot where a quick jaunt over a pass would put me on TLT southbound, dropping to Muddy Fork. So I watched for that pass, looking for the best place to pop over the pass. But then it occurred to me that surely others have had the same idea. There must be a user trail over the pass. Well damn, sure enough, there's actually a signed shortcut. And it was just a few yards to connect with TLT again. Back on the TLT I saw a sign pointing to Top Spur TH, and I realized I'd been here before. In fact, that shortcut is probably the most common route to McNeil Point. Ha! Okay, so down towards Muddy Fork, on a part of the trail I've never seen. I was dreading the long drop, but it wasn't that bad, partly follows the contour and meets the creek half way. At the northern crossing of Muddy Fork I turned and followed the creek up.

Up the Muddy:
Following the north branch of Muddy Fork was initially very easy, much better than the miserably brush south branch. But soon I was forced to cross, and then the south/right side soon became tricky, and I was forced up away from creekbed, and then it got brushy, and I eventually gave up, retreated a bit, dropped and crossed the creek at 4600', continued slightly upstream until the Muddy was running through a slot, gave up. Okay. Well, I didn't think it would be easy. But I had a Plan B.

Climbing out of North Muddy Canyon, to the cliffs.
North of the north Muddy branch is a parallel creek. If I could climb out of the North Muddy Canyon and through/around a cliff band, I should be able to access that creek and continue up, or perhaps on the ridge between the creeks. Sounds easy enough, right? Well, there's a series of gullies running perpendicular to North Muddy Canyon, and the cliffs looked daunting, so nothing would be easy. But up I went, scratching and clawing my way, scrambling and bushwhacking, rolling in the dirt, not quite sure where I was going due to the clouds. By some miracle I made it to the top of the cliffs, where I expected horrific bushwhacking, but on the other side I found verdant open forest and the sound of the creek in the valley below. It was night and day. I sat on a big boulder, licked my wounds, had a snack, and continued up. Eventually it became brushy, but compared to what I encountered climbing out of the canyon, it wasn't anything to complain about.

Into the alpine zone:
As I ascended the intercreek ridge, it became even more defined, even more of a ridge vs a canyon lip. Vegetation became more sparse. Clouds thickened until I could see nothing. I hunkered down behind a rock and waited. The air was so moist, nothing could dry, even my glasses were perpetually foggy. My filthy sweaty shirt went in the pack, and the fleece went on. A copy of The New Yorker kept me company for maybe 60-90 minutes. At a brief clearing, I dropped along my ascent ridge to a viewpoint, surveyed my surroundings, picked a route across the top of Muddy (bottom of Sandy) and started across as the clouds enveloped me again.

Poking around Sandy Glacier (upper Muddy Fork):
I dropped off my ridge southbound, crossed Muddy Fork's north branch, continued to the upper reaches of the immense ridge that separates the Muddy branches. I arrived still shrouded in clouds, and waited for enough clearing to look into the top of Muddy's south branch. Clouds returned, and I ascended Muddy's south branch here and there, randomly exploring, until I could go no higher without getting on glacial ice. Everything had been spooky: the little snowfields were undercut on the edges, I encountered mantled ice, snowbridges were unstable, I saw a huge slump/collapse up the creek, everything said "don't even think about it". I listened to the mountain. I sat and waited for clearing so I could plan an escape route to Cathedral Ridge and McNeil Point (or hopefully Co Pass). I pondered what became of the Sandy Ice Caves, wondered where they were, and then it dawned on me, I was right there, the collapse I was looking must be the remnants of Pure Imagination, or one of her sisters. Wow. It was a sad moment, but we knew it was coming, and I was happy to have seen it before and after.

to Co Pass:
I hiked back over towards Cathedral Ridge, and regained my ascent route. What now? The miserable trudge through knee-high shrubs to McNeil Point? Try to scramble up to the crest of Cathedral Ridge? Continue up Sandy and try to cross over Co Pass in virtually zero visibility? After much deliberation, I went with option C, partly because failure would result in a fun glissade back back to where I started, so not a huge loss. I continued up my lovely scenic ridge [in a ten yard radius around me] until it started to fade into Co Rock, then dropped onto Sandy to bypass Co Rock, and continued up to Co Pass. I think I could have found it just by altimeter, but I didn't have to. There were enough clearings in the clouds that I could eyeball my way.

Descending:
At Co Pass I put my crampons on for the first time and started down Glisan. It was faster/easier than expected. I flew down the mountain so fast you'd need skis to keep up with me! (Slight exaggeration.) Then came the crowded hike on the trail: "How far to..." and "where did you go"? I haven't been on this trail in ages. I had forgotten how scenic it is, especially when in bloom. It occurred to me that I didn't notice when I passed the junction of the McNeil unofficial/steep route. I've done that before. Doesn't really matter, but it annoys me that I was so inattentive. Random observation: the lower McNeil pond was nearly dry, but there was a little snow left around its fringe. Odd combination.

Bugs: Not a single mozzy spotted. I have one itchy swollen spot on an arm, but that's negligible. I've seen a lot more on St Helens this year.
Attachments
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Climbing out of Muddy canyon (north branch)
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A little later. See that blue patch of sky? Just a teaser, didn't last.
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headed up the intercreek ridge north of Muddy.
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The top of the ridge that separates Muddy's branches. Surprised to see trees and flowers. Behind me (upslope) is pure alpine zone.
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This peak, with its twin slides, was a notable landmark. I had wanted to loop behind and to top. Maybe next time. Muddy south flows along the bottom of those slides.
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Those cascades were important landmarks. I was going to visit, but then noticed that rubble heap is mantled ice.
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South Muddy, right up center, was enticing.
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A little closer.
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looking over at Yocum from (almost) Co Pass.
Last edited by Chip Down on July 19th, 2020, 5:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Chip Down
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Re: Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier

Post by Chip Down » July 14th, 2019, 5:11 pm

Oops, I forgot the most important thing!
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Webfoot
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Re: Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier

Post by Webfoot » July 15th, 2019, 3:40 am

That's wild! You still amaze me. I'll enjoy placing each of your photos as best I can. I particularly enjoy the second one. The ruddy dike looks solid enough to climb were it accessible; what a perch that would be. Regarding the former ice caves, there appear to be two openings in the Google 9/3/2018 aerial photos; is this where you were? Also, I am ignorant; what is mantled ice and why is it a hazard?

sandy glacier 2018.png

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dmthomas49
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Re: Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier

Post by dmthomas49 » July 15th, 2019, 12:15 pm

I was wondering where you were also. I think I have a Google Earth picture of the upper part of your venture... does this look about right? I am impressed!
240021A2-74D9-44E5-8DA4-29AD2005A7B2.png
"The clearest way into the Universe is through a forest wilderness."
— John Muir

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Chip Down
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Re: Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier

Post by Chip Down » July 15th, 2019, 7:37 pm

Yeah, that dike was pretty cool. I first saw it from the end, so it looked like a slender spire, but as I curved around it I came to realize it's a dike. It was visible from much of my hike.

Those openings in the GE image are probably related, probably not random moulins. Hard to say how close I was; no landmarks or reference points in pic.

Mantled ice is a glacier covered in rubble, deep debris, more than just a coating of dust. Could be sheddings from a headwall or from moraines. Like new snow, it can hide hazards, but can also protect from hazards. I hate it because it tends to be very loose and unstable, not to mention it can be a disgusting sloppy slippery muddy mess if it's wet.

In my overview pic below, I didn't try to draw my route, but marked a few points of interest which I passed. A is where the trail crosses Muddy. J is Co Pass, where I passed from Clackamas County to Hood River County. It's also where I left clouds behind, which is ironic, because I know that Glisan Valley so well, I'd feel comfortable descending it in a whiteout.
Attachments
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First dike sighting.
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Dike in the fog.
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Dike at lower left, as seen from my ascent ridge.
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From the return trail, the dike almost blends in, but its shadow betrays it.
Capture.JPG

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dmthomas49
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Re: Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier

Post by dmthomas49 » July 16th, 2019, 6:14 am

Thanks Chip. That makes it clear.
"The clearest way into the Universe is through a forest wilderness."
— John Muir

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CyrusK.
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Re: Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier

Post by CyrusK. » July 22nd, 2019, 12:22 pm

That prominent dike in the headwall of Muddy Fork Canyon is called Razorblade Pinnacle. I've been curious about what it looks like up close for a while. Apparently there's a few climbing routes on it.

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Chip Down
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Re: Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier (update: return 2020)

Post by Chip Down » July 19th, 2020, 6:14 pm

Back a year later to see how it looks without clouds.

Arrived at TH a bit early, took a nap. Woke groggy, not clear headed. Realized I was in my car. Assumed St Helens (after six nights on MSH this month, I've come to associate car-camping with MSH). Couldn't remember why I was there. Then remembered I was on Hood, then remembered I was at McGee Creek, then remembered I was headed to Sandy Glacier.

My plan this time:
When I reach Muddy Fork, go upstream as before, but just a little bit, looking for a minor tributary to the left. Follow it up into a well-defined gully which turns and runs parallel to Muddy. Last time, I encountered this creek much higher. It was charming, so I was looking forward to seeing more of it.

I knew there was risk of dense brush, and indeed it was pretty bad. The creek steepened, and I was forced to the ridge between my creek and Muddy Fork. It was a nice ridge, pretty clear, well defined.

Dropped back into gully when it was safe, and followed creek, until it started to look familiar, and I knew I was approaching timberline.

Above the trees, I climbed out of the gully and onto ridgecrest again. It was fun to see things clearly, no clouds this time.

Dropping onto Sandy Glacier is a pain. Down low, it's a long rugged descent. Up high, it's much easier, but that would put me higher than I wanted to be.

Once on Sandy, I found navigation difficult. It was the same as before, but magnified (same problems, but more of them, or more severe). I didn't trust the snow at all. Everything was uncertain, unreliable. I punched through a couple times. A few close calls too. There was a slope that was steep, although I remembered gentle. I had opted for hiking boots and microspikes this time. There were spots that exhibited creep, even though there were no gaping crevasses. Overall, I just didn't feel comfortable out here. There was less snow than last year, and what snow was left didn't seem secure. So I explored a bit and called it quits.

I considered crossing over Cathedral Ridge and dropping down Glisan Glacier as before, but decided to head over to McNeil Point instead, then back mostly on trail, with a couple glissade shortcuts (careful to stay on rock/dirt when there was no snow, due to the fact that this area is prone to excessive trampling).

I fell so many times! First was when I trusted a rock I shouldn't have. It rolled, I tumbled, landed on a humerus with history of breaking in that exact scenario, so I felt lucky this time. It's sore today, but seems intact. Also, fell walking down McGee trail. It was as if my boots were locked together, and down I went, hard. Then again! I figured my lace loops must have snagged the hooks on the opposite boot, so retied to eliminate long loops. Third time I fell, I stopped and evaluated to see what the heck was going on, Realized my lace hooks were snagging a leather/fabric margin. That's what happens when a boot manufacturer makes boots from tiny pieces stitched together. I'm old enough to remember when real boots were made with minimal seams, before the boot manufacturers conspired to sell us crap, knowing that if they all did it together, consumers would be forced to buy their garbage. This was a new experience for two reasons: I had taken my gaiters off because it was warm and I was on trail below snow line, and the overgrown trail caused me to walk with a narrow stride, feet close together.

I might return, either very early or very late season. If so, I'll go to McNeil and cut over to Sandy. Its probably the most efficient way to access Sandy.
Attachments
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Breaking out of the forest. McNeil Point is on the ridge above.
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Looking over at Yocum. The dike discussed above is nicely illuminated here.
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Only later did I realize that the part of Sandy I wanted to explore just happens to be illuminated here.
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The creek I followed up took me here. Amazing scenery, but will never be a popular destination. More work than McNeil, but lower, so views are only exciting to geo geeks.
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This illustrates how tricky creek crossings were (because overhanging snow margins).
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This was a consolation goal, but it disappointed. Not the flat-topped monolith I expected. I didn't even bother struggling with a creek crossing to reach it.
7.jpg
I forgot to recreate 2019 pics. Best comparison I can come up with is this pic vs 2019 version below.
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Chip Down
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Re: Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier (update: return 2020)

Post by Chip Down » July 19th, 2020, 6:43 pm

I forgot I wanted to share this pic, because of a couple illusions:

The mountain appears flattened in profile (left and right skyline are less steep than expected). This is a pretty common phenomenon in mountain photography, when up close, so not surprising. But the next one really caught me off guard:

To my eye, the Sandy Glacier appears to reside in a huge flat-bottomed bowl below the little snowfield and ridge I'm visiting. The headwall appears steep, but the glacier looks like it's barely sloped, as if it would be boring to ski. Of course, such alpine features do exist, but nowhere on Hood.

Speaking of alpine illusions, I love how the Sandy Iceshelf is foreshortened from this angle, making it appear as if you could play a soccer match on the flat surface above the ice cliff.
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mjirving
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Re: Hood: Muddy Fork north to Sandy Glacier, descent via Glisan Glacier (update: return 2020)

Post by mjirving » July 20th, 2020, 5:27 am

Dang...that’s one of those hikes where you just feel lucky to get out alive. I hate that jinx stuff where it seems like nothing is going right and it’s all random things going wrong. Interesting illusion at the end!

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