Unicorn Peak 7-3-10
Posted: July 9th, 2010, 2:32 am
I went on my first technical approach/climb last week (my rooster rock report from a couple weeks before was simply my first technical activity of any kind.
Unicorn Peak is the tallest peak in the Tatoosh mountain range (and the northern most) offering the undisputed best view of the southern face of Mt. Rainier. The peak is only a thousand feet or so above the timberline and has no official trail to it, it is simply an alpine scramble route. I got in on this climb at the last minute and didn't really know what to expect, I figured that me, a lowly mazamas BCEP grad would be unlikely to get in on something beyond the very basic, but I was in for a bit more than I expected.
If you can remember back to last weekend you'll remember the nasty weather we were having. I arrived at the damp Snow Lake trailhead in Mt. Rainier National Park at 7:30 to meet my group, the sun was nowhere to be seen and it was quite chilly.
We layered up, strapped our snow gear to our packs and off we went towards snow lake.
There was intermittent snow on the trail but by the time we got to snow lake the coverage was a good 2-3 feet of snow everywhere. We arrived at the lake and got the first look at our "scramble route." Yow, it was actually a steep snow field, clouded in mystery - our climb leader instructed us to put on our helmets and get out our ice axes.
We quickly found ourselves slogging up a steep snowfield, by now the snow coverage was 5+ feet and there was little bare ground to be seen, just a few boulders sticking up here and there. The snow was perfect, firm enough to kick steps and no need for crampons. However, it was steep and slick enough that self-arrest was critical if one was to fall and I honesty couldn't believe that on my first mazama climb I was trudging up a snowfield holding my ice axe in self arrest grip. As luck would have it I drew rope carrying duty for this first steep 1000 or so vertical feet, whew!
We were soon above the clouds and navigating with map and compass. I was hard to see much but at least there was almost no wind and no precipitation.
When it came time to gain the summit ridge we really ran into the unexpected. What is usually a steep class 4-5 scramble in summer was now a very steep snow field, and to make matters worse, right at the crux, the snow had formed a deep moat, leaving a few foot gap between the snow and rocky safety. Sorry I could not get any pics of the moat itself, it was a bit stressful at the moments I was near it.
The short ascent to the moat really had me excited, I shortened my ice axe leash, clipped it into my harness and ascended the slope step by step with my ice axe in the low dagger position. Experienced mountaineers would consider this no big deal but I have to admit I was surprised to be using this technique. I had confidence in my technique and teammates so this part was more fun than scared. Crossing the moat was quite nervous for me, however.
Anyway, I'm doing a bit to much talking and the pictures can tell the story from here
Only I and the two climb leaders did not fall on the ascent. And I only didn't fall because I cheated and used my knee and basically did a pull up at the crux. The fixed line got quire a workout but luckily nobody got injured. I took a couple of pictures when I was at a nice platform midway to the summit.
Continued below...
Unicorn Peak is the tallest peak in the Tatoosh mountain range (and the northern most) offering the undisputed best view of the southern face of Mt. Rainier. The peak is only a thousand feet or so above the timberline and has no official trail to it, it is simply an alpine scramble route. I got in on this climb at the last minute and didn't really know what to expect, I figured that me, a lowly mazamas BCEP grad would be unlikely to get in on something beyond the very basic, but I was in for a bit more than I expected.
If you can remember back to last weekend you'll remember the nasty weather we were having. I arrived at the damp Snow Lake trailhead in Mt. Rainier National Park at 7:30 to meet my group, the sun was nowhere to be seen and it was quite chilly.
We layered up, strapped our snow gear to our packs and off we went towards snow lake.
There was intermittent snow on the trail but by the time we got to snow lake the coverage was a good 2-3 feet of snow everywhere. We arrived at the lake and got the first look at our "scramble route." Yow, it was actually a steep snow field, clouded in mystery - our climb leader instructed us to put on our helmets and get out our ice axes.
We quickly found ourselves slogging up a steep snowfield, by now the snow coverage was 5+ feet and there was little bare ground to be seen, just a few boulders sticking up here and there. The snow was perfect, firm enough to kick steps and no need for crampons. However, it was steep and slick enough that self-arrest was critical if one was to fall and I honesty couldn't believe that on my first mazama climb I was trudging up a snowfield holding my ice axe in self arrest grip. As luck would have it I drew rope carrying duty for this first steep 1000 or so vertical feet, whew!
We were soon above the clouds and navigating with map and compass. I was hard to see much but at least there was almost no wind and no precipitation.
When it came time to gain the summit ridge we really ran into the unexpected. What is usually a steep class 4-5 scramble in summer was now a very steep snow field, and to make matters worse, right at the crux, the snow had formed a deep moat, leaving a few foot gap between the snow and rocky safety. Sorry I could not get any pics of the moat itself, it was a bit stressful at the moments I was near it.
The short ascent to the moat really had me excited, I shortened my ice axe leash, clipped it into my harness and ascended the slope step by step with my ice axe in the low dagger position. Experienced mountaineers would consider this no big deal but I have to admit I was surprised to be using this technique. I had confidence in my technique and teammates so this part was more fun than scared. Crossing the moat was quite nervous for me, however.
Anyway, I'm doing a bit to much talking and the pictures can tell the story from here
Only I and the two climb leaders did not fall on the ascent. And I only didn't fall because I cheated and used my knee and basically did a pull up at the crux. The fixed line got quire a workout but luckily nobody got injured. I took a couple of pictures when I was at a nice platform midway to the summit.
Continued below...