Flickr Album with more photos
I set out early to make sure I'd have enough time for driving to the trailhead, hiking the 12.5 miles, and getting back to the car before dark. I was surprised at how many other cars were already in the lot before 9am. The weather was expected to be pretty good for late December in Oregon. Low 40s with a slight chance of rain and a slight chance of sun.
The epic Eagle Creek Trail doesn't delay in giving the hiker a memorable gorge experience. Within the first ¼ mile I could simultaneously see a half dozen seasonal waterfalls, with the creek and hills framed by low clouds sticking to the trees. You almost immediately find yourself climbing along a slightly narrow rocky ledge with water dripping down all around. It quickly becomes difficult to choose between watching your footing and watching the scenery. This is not a hike to do if you're in a hurry. Give yourself permission to spend a lot of time standing and staring.
Despite all the stopping to stare at the scenery that I wanted to do, I also knew that my goal was to make it to Tunnel Falls with enough time that I could possibly also go to Twister Falls and still make it back to the car before dark. Even though I had a flashlight I knew I didn't want to spend any time hiking this trail in the dark.
It wasn't long before I started encountering other hikers. I saw one guy risking it all for a good photo of Punch Bowl falls. He seemed to be doing ok but I stayed in the area long enough to make sure he was able to scramble back up. After that I continued to trade places with maybe 3 dozen other hikers trying to take it all in while still continuing to push forward. Almost everyone was pretty friendly and equally in awe. I only encountered one loud group of young people who didn't seem terribly interested in nature. I even saw a few trail runners. I can't imagine actually running along this trail. The combination of rocky footings and steep drops made me nervous for them!
I don't think I've ever seen this many waterfalls so close together. They seemed to be hiding everywhere. At one point I turned my head and in my periphery I noticed a big falls way up the hillside to the east that I couldn't even hear. I could have easily passed right by it without even noticing. I suspect this could have been Sorenson Falls?
Crossing Wy'east Creek was intimidating but fine. I don't love creek crossings. Someone more adventurous than me was there first and made an attempt to cross on some rocks but quickly found them to be far too slippery. He got very lucky and narrowly avoided sliding into the creek. He showed me what not to do….then he selected another option crossing on some logs. His second attempt went much better so I followed his path.
When I arrived at Tunnel Falls there were a decent number of other hikers hanging out all around it and taking photos. It was a bit congested for my taste, especially with the steep drop offs everywhere. I went through the tunnel, got a couple photos, and decided there was no need to push ahead to Twister Falls today…I'd be coming back and would check it out when I'd have more daylight at my disposal.
As soon as I turned around it started to rain enough that it was time for a rain coat. There's something magical about being in the elements with appropriate gear.
It was starting to get kinda late and I knew that in order to get back before dark I needed to stay focused and move faster than I did on the way out. The hood of my raincoat worked as blinders and allowed me to avoid getting distracted. The rocky trail was starting to wear on my feet so my pace slowed, but eventually I made it to the car just before dark.
I texted my wife to say I was heading home. I started to pull out of my parking spot and then… HHIISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS. Well fuck. I had grazed the natural rock curb and sliced a huge gash in the sidewall of a tire. I wasn't surprised when fix-a-flat proved not up to the task. No spare tire… Thankfully I had a cell signal and started figuring out WTF to do. Eventually I found a tow company with a driver available. I am not a car person and quickly learned that because my car was all wheel drive I'd need to replace all 4 tires. Fun. Then I found a place in Hood River that could have new tires for me the next day. So I waited for the tow, we dropped the car at Point S in Hood River, and got a ride from the tow truck driver to the Hood River Hotel.
This was only supposed to be a day trek costing close to $0. Suddenly I was paying for a tow, 4 new tires, a hotel stay, and several meals. If there is any silver lining it is that Hood River is a great town setup for tourists. I got the last room at the hotel and suspected that if there was more snow on the mountain I wouldn't have found a room available. By the time I got to the hotel my feet were starting to get cold and I was thrilled to change into fresh dry socks. Thanks to the Boy Scouts for teaching me to be prepared! I walked to Pfriem and enjoyed a hot meal and a couple beers.
Of course I woke up long before sunrise and spent the early morning starting this report and figuring out what to do between 5am and late afternoon when I expected my car to be ready. Breakfast at Broder was an amazing treat. I walked many miles going to all the shops up and down Oak St. Bought a book at Artifacts, loitered and read in a couple coffee shops, tried to avoid the crowds as much as possible, had to work to convince the art gallery owner that I wasn't there to steal, buy, or sneak photos of the art, and opted not to walk up the Hood River City Stairs.
My car was ready around 2:00. The awesome manager at Point S picked me up and delivered me to my car. I arrived home 24 hours later than initially planned.
Still wrapping my head around the idea that cars are made without spares...? Mine are old -- a 2005 Highlander and 2014 Subaru, ancient by today's standards, I suppose. I did buy a tire inflator to carry with me after limping home with a rapidly deflating tire awhile back -- didn't want to bother with the spare, so I was pumping it up every few miles. It's one of those lithium battery air compressors (shaped like a hand drill) that both charges and powers from the outlet in your car.
