All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

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Born2BBrad
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All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

Post by Born2BBrad » September 5th, 2022, 5:59 pm

What: Backpack all the way around Mt Adams
When: 9/2/22-9/4/22
Who: Just Me (Born2BBrad)

Opening picture:
Image

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General Information

Route:
• South Climb TH (5565’) up South Climb Trail to Round the Mountain Trail (6260’)
• Left (west) on Round the Mountain Trail to Salt Creek (6115’)
• Set up camp
• West on Round the Mountain Trail to PCT jct (5900’)
• PCT north to Highline Trail jct (5900’) at Killen Creek
• Highline Trail NE, then E, then S to Yakama Nation boundary (7760’)
• Highline Trail S to Avalanche Valley (6600’)
• Set up camp
• Off-trail from Avalanche Valley, around Battlement Ridge, up Klickitat Glacier to Sunrise Camp (8320’)
• Sunrise Camp down Sunrise Camp Trail (sort of) to Round the Mountain Trail (6100’)
• Round the Mountain Trail west to GPNF boundary (6275’)
• West on Round the Mountain Trail to South Climb Trail jct (6260’)
• Down South Climb Trail to South Climb TH (5565’)

Miles: GPS says 40 but CalTopo says 36
EG: GPS says 8450’ but CalTopo says 7200’
Drive time from The Dalles: 1.5 to 1.75 hours

Google Earth video tour:


Link to video on YouTube

Google Earth overview:
Image

Topographical overview (purple line):
Image
Image

Elevation profile:
Image

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Research and Preparation

I had gone all the way around Mt. Adams before in 2013. My trip report for that trip was the most viewed and commented of all of my trip reports. A complete GPS track was made and retained. Because I’d done it before, and had a track to refer to, much less research had to be done.

The only thing needing any research was for the Tract D section on Yakama Nation land. The Yakama Nation only allows non tribal members to access that section at a specific time of year, and not even every year. Most non tribal members visit Bird Lake and Bird Creek Meadows, and not the area far away from roads.

This year Tract D was opened up from August 29th to September 25th. The day fee is $20 and camping fee is $30 per night. There is a fee box at Mirror Lake. The problem for me was, I would not be passing by Mirror Lake.

I called Yakama Nation Tribal Forestry, first to confirm camping would be allowed in Avalanche Valley (it was) and to find out if there was an alternate way to pay the fee. I spoke with Ryan in the Yakama Nation Tribal Forestry Department and he said the best alternative to the fee box at Mirror Lake was to mail a check. So that’s what I did. Below is the information on how to pay the camping fee via check.

Yakama Nation
PO Box 151
Toppenish, WA 98947
Attn: YN Tribal Forestry

Make check out to: Yakama Nation Tribal Forestry
Subject line: Tract D

I would have gotten away without paying the fee, as there is only one ranger out there (Garrett) and I didn’t see him. But the way I look at it is: 1) They opened up their land to non tribal members and require a fee. 2) I’m a non tribal member who would be accessing Tract D. 3) Follow the rules and pay the fee. 4) Don’t be a d*%#.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Trip Narrative and Pictures

This ended up being almost the exact same trip as in 2013, with only minor changes. My plan was to get to the South Climb TH in time to get in a few more miles to make day 2 shorter than day 2 in 2013.


Temperature at the start:
Image

It was hot! However, it was only 4.5 miles to my planned camp. Plus, I had refrigerated my water all day and put it in the freezer a couple hours before leaving home.

One of the signs near the start with wise advice:
Image

All the way up the South Climb Trail were ATV tracks. That just makes my blood boil! Unless, it had to do with a rescue.

ATV tracks on the trail:
Image

The ATV tracks continued left (west) upon the junction with the Round the Mountain Trail for over half a mile. They stopped only where an ATV could no longer drive on the trail. The fact they went that way and stopped where they did made me think this had nothing to do with a rescue.

ATV tracks continue:
Image

Somewhat interesting, there was very little evidence of ATV tracks on the South Climb Trail on the way back. Probably because all the hiker boots.

It was relatively uneventful getting to camp. Hot and slow. Mostly level terrain. Passing a few ravines and creeks.

One of the many ravines:
Image

Campsite near Salt Creek:
Image

After an early rise, I was on the trail shortly after 6:00 AM. It was going to be a long day. The Round the Mountain Trail to the junction with the PCT is relatively level and well maintained. In other words, easy.

Cascade Creek at Horseshoe Meadow:
Image

Junction with the PCT:
Image

The PCT is also relatively level and even more well maintained. Nothing noteworthy until the Adams Creek crossing. There are some logs to cross, making it a dry crossing. Since I had them with me, I put on my micro-spikes to get better traction on the wet logs.

Adams Creek crossing:
Image

I hope this family made it across OK:
Image

View near the PCT junction with the High Trail:
Image

PCT junction with the Highline Trail:
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Nothing exceptional to report about the Highline Trail from the PCT to the junction with the Muddy Meadows Trail. Much less use than the Round the Mountain Trail or the PCT. Still, in good condition.

After passing Foggy Flat, the Highline Trail gains elevation all the way to the Yakama boundary. A couple of difficult creek crossings are thrown in to make things fun.

The trail through the rocks is marked way better than in 2013. Many cairns, large and small, guide the way all the way to the Yakama boundary.

Cairns marking the way:
Image

The first difficult creek to cross was the west fork of the Muddy Fork. I had to go upstream a bit to find a place to rock hop across.

West fork of the Muddy Fork crossing:
Image

The east fork of the Muddy Fork was a little more difficult. I had to go much farther upstream to find a dry crossing, where the creek splits apart. Even then I had to jump, in addition to rock hopping. I miss my young grasshopper legs.

East fork of the Muddy Fork crossing:
Image

The terrain resembles a moonscape as elevation is gained. Very little vegetation.

Moonscape, climbing higher:
Image

Moonscape, looking back:
Image

At the Yakama boundary:
Image

Once at the Yakama boundary, the trail immediately becomes less discernable. It seemed to be more well-worn, with a few more little cairns than in 2013. I lost it in a few places, but always found it again.

In the picture below, the trail can be seen in the middle. Over the saddle in the top center is Avalanche Valley. Not without some more fun stuff on the way.

The way to Avalanche Valley:
Image

One of the fun things is crossing the Little Muddy. It was the third time I had to take off my boot and ford this stream. One time, early in the morning coming back I crossed it dry.

Little Muddy crossing:
Image

Finally at Avalanche Valley:
Image

The designated camp spot by the lake was taken, so I set up my tent on a bare spot near the creek.

Day three would start out with the section from Avalanche Valley to Sunrise Camp. All cross country with no trail. Let the adventure begin!

What it entails is:
- Crossing Rusk Creek and its ravine
- Going around the edge of Battlement Ridge
- Climbing up, and then way down a loose, rocky moraine
- Crossing the raging Big Muddy
- Climbing up icy and slushy Klickitat Glacier
- Scrambling up the last 150 feet of a steep, loose and rocky slope

Sunrise on Mt. Adams:
Image

Rusk Creek:
Image

Battlement Ridge in the forefront:
Image

Someone else came this way:
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The picture below was taken from the moraine above the Big Muddy. The upper far left is the end of the Ridge of Wonders. The very middle is the terminus of one of the toes of the Klickitat Glacier. It is dirty and rocky. The Big Muddy is flowing right from the glacier as a raging creek. I crossed the creek where it splits apart. I had to rock hop and make one big jump. No fording necessary. It was fairly early in the morning still, so later in the day a ford might be necessary. The route I took went up that green patch in the center, then up and around to the left.

View from the moraine:
Image

Picture just to prove I was there:
Image

Crossing this was harder than it looks:
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At the end of the left toe of the Klickitat Glacier:
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Time to put on my micro-spikes:
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The glacier was mostly icy all the way up, as opposed to soft or hard-packed snow. Water was flowing on top of it in many places. The flowing water had created cracks and crevasses, some deep. I never slipped, thanks to my micro-spikes. In fact, the section on the glacier was the easiest of the day up to that point, despite the steepness.

Looking back down the icy slope:
Image

I wouldn’t want to fall down this hole:
Image

Finally at Sunrise Camp:
Image

The trail down from Sunrise Camp, if you can call it that, is not east to find. In fact, just like the 2013 trip, I completely lost it, relying on footprints and my GPS track. The route I ended up taking was the most difficult of the trip. Across boulder fields and up a very loose and rocky moraine. I would not advise someone to take that route. Based on new intel, I think I know where the Sunrise Camp “trail” is supposed to be. Or at least an easier route.

Hey, let’s follow these footprints. Maybe they knew where they were going:
Image

The picture below shows a moraine going uphill to the right. I crossed the boulder field in order to get to it. There are more boulders than what the picture shows. It’s hard to see, but there’s a tiny notch in the middle of the moraine. That’s the way I went up. There’s a trail going up to that notch from the other side, continuing up the spine of the moraine. People go up that way to see the meltwater lake at the bottom of Mazama Glacier. Contouring to that lake, then going up to the moraine peak would be a better way to go, and might be where the Sunrise Camp Trail goes. There were some people at the notch watching me come up there. I think they thought I was crazy. They may be right, as I am never doing that again.

Boulder field and moraine:
Image

Update: I went back three weeks later to locate the better route from Sunrise Camp to the moraine above Ice Lake. See the trip report for details.

Coming down the Hellroaring Trail I saw mountain goats:
Image

Hellroaring Meadows:
Image

The section through Bird Creek Meadows was wonderful! It was still green, with some flowers still blooming. Best of all, it was a real trail that was maintained.

Bridge in Bird Creek Meadows:
Image

The rest of the trip back to the TH on the Round the Mountain Trail and the South Climb Trail was easy and uneventful. I made it back in plenty of time to get home, shower, pig out, then sleep in my spacious, soft bed.

----------------------------------------------------

Final Notes
• Cell reception on the south side in many places, even enough to FaceTime. Checked at the north Yakama boundary and couldn’t even send a text. None on the east side. Not sure about the west side.
• NW Forest Pass required at the South Climb TH. A self-issued wilderness permit is required when entering the wilderness. Fee required for Yakama land (read details above).
• GPS and route finding skills only necessary for the Yakama Nation portion. A map is helpful for the overall route and trails.
• Lots of water sources, but some smaller creeks have dried up. Some creeks are silty, one smelled like sulfur. Can be long distances between water sources, then many near each other.
• If the weather is sunny, sun exposure would vary. Forest fires in recent years have made for less shady trails on the south side. Very little shade on much of the NE and east side.
• Hardly any bugs. A few on the west side. One of the advantages of September hiking.
• Lots of camp spots options. However, there can be long distances between camp spots with good water nearby. Not sure if camping allowed on Yakama land other than Avalanche Valley and Bird & Mirror Lake.
• I brought a pot, fuel and food to cook this trip. Normally I don’t do that in order to save weight and pack space. It was nummy!
• Just a little note about the road from Morrison Creek Campground to the South Climb TH. There are a couple dozen or so large water bars. I thought I would scrape bottom on my Subaru, but I didn’t. There were no passenger cars at the TH when I stared, but a few when I got back. There was a guy there next to his passenger car, so I asked him how it handled. When specifically asked if he scraped bottom, he said yes, four times.

Link to pictures on Google Photos:
Link 1
Link 2

Hike on man
Last edited by Born2BBrad on September 28th, 2022, 12:34 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

Link to GPX tracks
Link to Trip Reports

Nwcanyoning
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Joined: August 23rd, 2022, 9:19 pm

Re: All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

Post by Nwcanyoning » September 5th, 2022, 6:29 pm

Thanks for the report. Avalanche valley looks great. I’m glad there is some off trail allowed as I do need to lay eyes on some waterfalls on that side of the mountain.

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rubiks
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Re: All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

Post by rubiks » September 5th, 2022, 8:45 pm

Great report!

I did an out and back from Bird Lake to Sunrise Camp on 9/3, some of those tracks heading down from Sunrise Camp were mine. The loop all the way around Mt. Adams must be more popular than I thought. I saw two groups (one couple, then one family of four) on their way around the mountain counterclockwise.

I went by Iceberg Lake both ways, and was able to follow at least some semblance of a trail as far as the lake. I don't think I ever saw any trail between there and Sunrise Camp, just kinda picked my way up on a decent looking route. Looking back down I could get a better sense of the terrain and was able to take a slightly better route down.
You know exactly what to do.
There's no need to be afraid.
Keep walking.

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adamschneider
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Re: All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

Post by adamschneider » September 5th, 2022, 8:55 pm

rubiks wrote:
September 5th, 2022, 8:45 pm
I went by Iceberg Lake both ways, and was able to follow at least some semblance of a trail as far as the lake.
Is Iceberg Lake the blob of meltwater below Mazama Glacier at 7623'?

I'm heading up there for a day hike this week but don't have an actual plan yet.

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retired jerry
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Re: All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

Post by retired jerry » September 6th, 2022, 6:41 am

That is an epic trip, you make it look easy

The distance and elevation gain is actually slightly less than going around Mt Hood. I guess the Adams loop is higher elevation, so shorter. You could go to the peak, and walk around the mountain a few feet down and it would be very short :)

Yeah, after we've broken all those treaties, given them blankets with smallpox (intentionally or not), etc., paying them $30 seems fair

Looking down from Cispus Pass there's a great place to camp at the top of the Klikatat River, but they said it's not okay to go there. Okay. There are a lot of nice places to go that are allowed.

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drm
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Re: All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

Post by drm » September 6th, 2022, 6:59 am

Too many Muddys - little, big, forks.

As to Sunrise Camp trail - what's that? There are two routes, and it sounds like you didn't do either of them. But the route you described as a better route - traversing between Sunrise Camp and the lake, is the most common route. On my one visit to Sunrise Camp from the south, I did not know that, I had a map that showed a lower route. I traversed right even lower than you, not too far above the top of the big waterfall. That was a nasty boulder field too. Then I climbed up the ravine next to the upper end of the Ridge of Wonders.

If you get to that ridge just beyond (south) of the glacial lake, there is a trail down to Hellroaring Viewpoint. My trip report from last year shows it pretty clearly.

By the way, this year the Yakama are not closing and locking the gate each night - there are campers and they can't lock them in at night. Note that the old campgrounds have not really been refurbished. People are camping, but expect overgrown campsites. There is a team up there working on conditions (trails and campgrounds) so it is improving.

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Gray Jay
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Re: All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

Post by Gray Jay » September 6th, 2022, 7:59 am

Hi Brad,
Good to meet you on the trail again. I thought you looked somewhat familiar when you stopped to chat with us on the Round The Mountain Trail on Sunday, but it had been a year since we met you and Dean at Gotchen Meadows, so what were the chances? (I was in the party of 5 with the little black dog wearing a faded red harness.)

I attempted to do the full circuit several times in my youth, but mishaps always intervened, including injuries to group members. I did get as far as magical Avalanche Valley twice -- and I had to take off my boots to ford the Little Muddy, too. I remember the days before climate change when we could cross the east fork of the Muddy Fork on a snow bridge during our day hikes to the Devil's Garden and Red Butte from our base camp.
Susan
Last edited by Gray Jay on September 10th, 2022, 10:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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rubiks
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Re: All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

Post by rubiks » September 6th, 2022, 8:13 am

adamschneider wrote:
September 5th, 2022, 8:55 pm
Is Iceberg Lake the blob of meltwater below Mazama Glacier at 7623'?
Yep, that's it. I don't know if it has an official name, the lake is neither named nor even shown on the Yakama Nation maps of the area. Caltopo doesn't name it either. But the field guide calls it Iceberg Lake, so I went with that.
You know exactly what to do.
There's no need to be afraid.
Keep walking.

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adamschneider
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Re: All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

Post by adamschneider » September 6th, 2022, 12:15 pm

rubiks wrote:
September 6th, 2022, 8:13 am
adamschneider wrote:
September 5th, 2022, 8:55 pm
Is Iceberg Lake the blob of meltwater below Mazama Glacier at 7623'?
Yep, that's it. I don't know if it has an official name, the lake is neither named nor even shown on the Yakama Nation maps of the area. Caltopo doesn't name it either. But the field guide calls it Iceberg Lake, so I went with that.
I just added the name to OpenStreetMap, so it should show up in future updates to CalTopo's tiles.

JBG
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Re: All The Way ‘round Mt Adams: 9/2/22-9/4/22

Post by JBG » September 6th, 2022, 2:18 pm

Thanks for the great report. Were there many more people doing this particular loop hike? I haven't been up around Mt Adams in a really long time, maybe visited ice caves in the 90's. Looks like similar challenges to Timberline but less accessible in places.

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