South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

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Born2BBrad
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Location: The Dalles

South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

Post by Born2BBrad » August 28th, 2022, 7:14 pm

What: South Wallowas backpacking loop
When: 8/24/22-8/25/22
Who: Just Me (Born2BBrad)

Opening picture:
Image

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General Information

Route:
• Started at East Eagle TH (4585’)
• Up Little Kettle Trail past Crater Lake (7550’) to jct w/Cliff Creek Trail (7570’)
• Down Cliff Creek Trail to S. Fk Imnaha crossing (6100’)
• Up S. Fk Imnaha Trail to off-trail attempt to climb Cusick Mt (made it to 8085’)
• Back down to S. Fk Imnaha Trail
• Up S. Fk Imnaha Trail to campsite (7000’)
• Up S. Fk Imnaha Trail past Ashes Basin (7400’) to Hawkins Pass (8355’)
• Down Hawkins Pass to jct w/Glacier Lake Trail (7155’)
• Up Glacier Lake Trail past Glacier Lake (8166’) to Glacier Pass (8540’)
• Glacier Pass direct to Eagle Cap (9572’)
• Down Eagle Cap Summit Trail to Horton Pass (8460’)
• Down East Eagle Trail to East Eagle TH (4585’)

Miles: 40 round-trip
EG: 10,000’
Drive time from The Dalles: 4 hrs 30 minutes
People encountered day 1: 1
People encountered day 2: 10 (6 on Eagle Cap)

Google Earth video tour:


Link to video on YouTube

Google Earth overview:
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Topographical overview (purple line):
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Elevation profile:
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Research and Preparation

I have done many trips in the Wallowas, mostly on the north side. With much of the north side explored, I turned my attention to the south side. Various options were researched, and some routes planned. Some goals like climbing Cusick Mt., visiting the oldest tree in Oregon and taking the direct route to Eagle Cap were set.

Most sections of the routes were on designated trails that get some maintenance. A few sections were off-trail, that required using Google Earth to plot the best course.

The Fred Barstad and Douglas Lorain books were used as reference to familiarize myself with the trails and campsite options.

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Trip Narrative and Pictures

I had made two previous attempts at a similar trip, but had to cut them short for weather reasons (too hot, then thunderstorms). The forecast looked good for 8/24/22, so a plan was set. Then the day prior to my departure, NE Oregon, including the Wallowas, got nailed with thunder, lightning and rain. Many fires were started, which was a concern. Fortunately, wildfire sources indicated no fires near where I had planned to go. Webcams from Joseph and Halfway showed no smoky skies.

As usual, I left The Dalles in the afternoon to spend the night at the TH. It was forecasted to be hot, so I wanted to get an early start to gain elevation early the next day.

Just before reaching the East Eagle TH, a guy, Whit, flagged me down at his campsite next to the road. Apparently, his car battery died and I was the first person to come by all day. It would be the first chance to try out my jump starter battery pack. Since I go to remote trailheads where no one else may come for days, I got that for assurance. These battery packs work better than jump starting from another car and the charge lasts for months. They can also be used as a power source, USB charger and a flashlight. The jump starter worked instantly to charge his battery.

Whit had also mentioned there was a problem bear in the area that had been breaking into cars. His car was damaged by the bear, but that was probably due to him leaving fried chicken in his car. Just a reminder, don’t leave fried chicken in your car at trailheads.

This is the jump starter battery pack I have:
Image

The next morning I was on the Little Kettle Trail by 6:15 AM. The Little Kettle TH is near the East Eagle TH, but it is not signed on the road at all. It’s a trail you could miss if it wasn’t right next to the parking area.

Start of the Little Kettle Trail:
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The Little Kettle Trail goes through the forest for a short stretch, then begins switchbacking up a treeless spur ridge. 27 switchbacks to be exact. Between my 7/15/22 trip here and this trip, some brush clearing was done on the switchbacks. Previously I had to fight my way through more than a few times.

East Eagle valley from spur ridge:
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Does a bear s%$# in the woods? It most certainly does:
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After the 27 switchbacks, the trail goes through mostly open hillsides full of sagebrush, passing some boulder rock slides.

Sagebrush-filled hillside:
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Rock slide:
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The last big climb switchbacks up through a talus slope filled with pika sounding the alarm.

Looking back down the talus slope:
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Can you find the pika in this picture:
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The trail levels out as it nears Crater Lake. Apparently, Crater Lake was a small tarn, but its outflow to Cliff Creek was dammed and it is now diverted to Kettle Creek. The water level had dropped significantly since my visit in July.

Crater Lake on 8/24/22:
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Crater Lake on 7/15/22:
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Old wheelbarrow below the lake:
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The Little Kettle Trails meets the Cliff Creek Trail near Crater Lake. Something interesting I noticed is two signs out there calling it the Cliff “River” Trail. Every other source, including online FS sources, call the creek Cliff “Creek” and the trail Cliff “Creek” Trail.

Trail junction sign cairn:
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The Cliff Creek Trail was in good condition, with only a few logs to hop over or go around. It is mostly open terrain, with some great views along the way. All downhill heading towards the S. Fk Imnaha River.

View looking at Marble Mt:
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No, it’s Cliff Creek:
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Not only do bears s%$ in the woods, they also scratch trees:
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The S. Fk Imnaha was a rock hop on 8/24/22:
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It wasn’t on 7/15/22:
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Trail junction sign, again not Cliff River:
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Upriver, shortly after crossing the S. Fk Imnaha is a great campsite in a meadow with a view of Cusick Mt. There I took a long rest in the shade and pondered what to do next. It was hot, 80 degrees, and the break was needed.

Campsite view:
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My initial plan was to camp there and attempt Cusick the next morning, along with finding Oregon’s oldest tree on the way up. It was still very early, with over seven and a half hours of daylight remaining. After the long break, the decision was made to find the tree, climb Cusick and then descend to a campsite in Ashes Basin. Upon leaving the campsite, I noticed the puffy clouds had increased to more, darker clouds. There was no thunder or lightning, but the weather two days prior in that area was in the back of my mind.

Ominous clouds gathering over Cusick Mt:
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A very specific off-trail route had been plotted up a ridge that leads to the ridge that connects Cusick to Marble Mt. I had made this attempt in 2021, so I knew that it could be done. In fact, on that route is evidence of a faint user trail up to Cusick.

On the ridge on my way up:
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Getting higher:
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Let me tell you, that tree is not easy to find. Only vague clues can be found online. It is a big mountain and where the tree is supposed to be is very steep and scree-filled. Incredibly difficult. After trudging around for longer than I wanted to, I started to hear thunder in the distance. Then it got closer. Being high on an open ridge during a lightning, thunder and rain storm is not something I want to experience. So I high-tailed it back down to the trail without finding the tree.

Heading back down:
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Back on the trail, the thunder increased and some drippity drops started to fall from the sky. The plan was to find the first campsite ASAP and call it a day.

Threatening skies on the way towards camp:
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I found a great site next to the river where I could set up my tent under some trees. Thunder and some raindrops continued, but nothing more materialized, other than one single lightning bolt during the night. Still, I made the right decision to stop the climb. The next morning there was not a cloud in the sky.

Clear skies in the morning:
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I had soured on finding the tree and climbing Cusick, so I continued with the loop, heading up to Hawkins Pass. Hawkins Pass is above Little Frazier Lake and Frazier Lake. There is a pass to the west called Frazier Pass, so why is Hawkins Pass called that and not Frazier Pass? What’s up with that?

Ashes Basin from near Hawkins Pass:
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Little Frazier Lake coming down Hawkins Pass:
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After crossing the W. Fk Wallowa River, I turned left, going uphill on the Glacier Lake Trail. The Glacier Lake Trail is treeless, and mostly goes through granite boulder fields. It can be very hot, with the sun reflecting off the white granite. Fortunately, it was still early in the morning and cool.

Nearing Glacier Lake:
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Obligatory picture of Glacier Lake and Glacier Peak: Image

View looking back, climbing up to Glacier Pass:
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Once at Glacier Pass, next goal was to climb Eagle Cap direct from there, without taking the trail all the way down to the Lakes Basin. The last time I was at Glacier Pass, I noticed a trail heading towards Eagle Cap. That’s what got me thinking about the direct route. Using Google Earth, a route was created and a GPX file of that route was put on my GPS.

The beginning of the direct route to Eagle Cap (upper right):
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To my surprise, almost the entire way had a trail or had small cairns marking the way. The trail and cairns matched my planned route almost perfectly. Obviously, I’m not the first to think about this route.

Cairns guiding the way:
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View of Glacier Lake along the way:
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I’m getting closer:
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After making my way through some easy uphill sections, I got to the bench below the east side of Eagle Cap. That section is relatively easy too. Towards the end of the bench is a major boulder field. Earlier in the year snowfields cover some of the boulder field. There was very little snow when I was there, which is probably a good thing. Walking on snow covering boulders can be risky, with the very real chance of punching through a deep hole. Still, bouldering through it was not easy. Not difficult or dangerous, but not easy.

Start of the boulder field:
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Meltwater tarn:
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After getting through the boulder field was the hardest section. There was a very steep slope to climb up to the saddle between Eagle Cap and Glacier Peak. The slope was very loose dirt and small rocks. Two steps up and one step back the entire way. It could not have been done without hiking poles. It was only 500 feet in distance, but some of it was over a 45 degree angle.

View from the saddle:
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From the saddle to the top of Eagle Cap is only 340’ in elevation and .29 mile. There is a trail the entire way.

Trail from the saddle to Eagle Cap:
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Now for some numbers comparing the direct route to Eagle Cap to the route that goes through the Lakes Basin. Going though the Lakes Basin loses 1050’ and is 5 miles to the top of Eagle Cap. The direct route loses no elevation and is only 1.85 miles.

Obligatory picture from Eagle Cap:
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The whole day I was monitoring my progress and calculating projected time to either, get to a campsite, get back to my car or to get back home that night. It was 1:15PM when I got to Eagle Cap. It was 11 or so miles back to the TH, all downhill. Could I make it back to my car in time to drive home that night? Read on, but if you’ve read my trip reports before, I think you know the answer.

View coming down Eagle Cap looking at the East Eagle valley:
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Plaque at Horton Pass:
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The plaque doesn’t mention if Horton heard a Who.

Coming down Horton Pass:
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The East Eagle Trail is very long, with very few campsite options. For the most part there are views down the valley and of the mountain ridges the entire way.

Lots of views on the way down:
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I made it back to my car at 6:30PM and made it home at 11:00PM.

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Final Notes
• No cell reception on the entire trip.
• Not sure if a NW Forest Pass is required at the TH. There was no sign stating so and there was no outhouse or picnic tables. A self-issued wilderness permit it required.
• GPS and route finding skills only necessary for climbing Cusick and for the direct route to Eagle Cap. A map is helpful for the overall route and trails.
• Lots of water sources, but the smaller creeks are getting smaller and drying up as summer passes.
• If the weather is sunny, this trip would be almost 85-90% sun exposure.
• Very few bugs were observed. No mosquito bites and no repellant was used.
• Lots of camp spots, but know where they are because sometimes there are long distances between them.

Sign on the way up East Eagle Road:
Image

Link to pictures on Google Photos:
Link 1
Link 2

Brad the hiking dude
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

Link to GPX tracks
Link to Trip Reports

User avatar
Bosterson
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Joined: May 18th, 2009, 3:17 pm
Location: Portland

Re: South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

Post by Bosterson » August 29th, 2022, 10:05 am

Good work, Brad. Bummer to miss Cusick again but that is a nice part of the Wallowas - esp the Cliff Creek section (lots of sage) and Ashes Basin (Ben coined that name after I told him about my scattering my ashes feeling), but the East Eagle area is also a different, mellow vibe. Glad to hear they brushed out Kettle Creek (that was a pain with all the brush). So you did a pair of 20 mile days? Not too shabby. ;)
#pnw #bestlife #bitingflies #favoriteyellowcap #neverdispleased

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Don Nelsen
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Re: South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

Post by Don Nelsen » August 29th, 2022, 11:18 am

Great TR, Brad! Thanks for your efforts and the great photos. I love that area and wish it wasn't so darned far from home.

dn
"Everything works in the planning stage" - Kelly

"If you don't do it this year, you will be one year older when you do" - Warren Miller

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BigBear
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Re: South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

Post by BigBear » August 29th, 2022, 1:38 pm

Nice pictures. Brings back some fond memories.

leiavoia
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Joined: April 24th, 2015, 9:53 pm

Re: South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

Post by leiavoia » August 29th, 2022, 2:46 pm

I did almost the exact same loop last year at about the same exact time. Nice to see it again. Looks greener and less smokey.

I saw the bootpath from Glacier Pass -> Eagle Cap but it wasnt the trip for that. Thanks for posting your experience.

Glad kettle creek got some TLC. The choke cherries were choking the path. I specifically remember going home on last day in ~100F fighting through endless bushes.

You're a monster. It took me 5 days to do this loop.

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Charley
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Re: South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

Post by Charley » August 29th, 2022, 7:38 pm

The plaque doesn’t mention if Horton heard a Who.
Do bears $#!+ in the woods???

All kidding aside, bravo. That's a stiff couple of days' work!
Believe it or not, I barely ever ride a mountain bike.

deborah
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Joined: April 16th, 2012, 8:04 am

Re: South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

Post by deborah » August 30th, 2022, 10:22 am

Very impressed. What a great hiking journey, and a wonderful report.

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Born2BBrad
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Re: South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

Post by Born2BBrad » August 30th, 2022, 7:42 pm

Bosterson wrote:
August 29th, 2022, 10:05 am
Glad to hear they brushed out Kettle Creek (that was a pain with all the brush). So you did a pair of 20 mile days? Not too shabby. ;)
The interactive USFS Wallowa Mountains Trail Information site notes the Little Kettle Trail was maintained up to shortly before the talus switchbacks. It made a huge difference. Day one was just under 20 miles and day two was just over 20 miles. Not bad for and old guy, or at least older than I used to be.
Don Nelsen wrote:
August 29th, 2022, 11:18 am
Great TR, Brad! Thanks for your efforts and the great photos. I love that area and wish it wasn't so darned far from home. dn
I thought you were retired. You have all the time in the world :) I need to hike with you again. Those trips are some of my best hiking memories.
BigBear wrote:
August 29th, 2022, 1:38 pm
Nice pictures. Brings back some fond memories.
Thanks. New memories for me now.
leiavoia wrote:
August 29th, 2022, 2:46 pm
I did almost the exact same loop last year at about the same exact time. Nice to see it again. Looks greener and less smokey.

I saw the bootpath from Glacier Pass -> Eagle Cap but it wasnt the trip for that. Thanks for posting your experience.

Glad kettle creek got some TLC. The choke cherries were choking the path. I specifically remember going home on last day in ~100F fighting through endless bushes.

You're a monster. It took me 5 days to do this loop.
It’s an underrated area of the Wallowas. See my response above about the Little Kettle Trail. Much better now. I like to go light and fast so I don’t have to bring as much food or spend extra nights in a tent. I don’t sleep well when I travel anywhere.
Charley wrote:
August 29th, 2022, 7:38 pm
The plaque doesn’t mention if Horton heard a Who.
Do bears $#!+ in the woods??? All kidding aside, bravo. That's a stiff couple of days' work!
I like to throw a zinger or two in my TRs to lighten the no-nonsense analytical parts. Sometimes I crack myself up.
deborah wrote:
August 30th, 2022, 10:22 am
Very impressed. What a great hiking journey, and a wonderful report.
Thanks. I’m glad you enjoyed it.

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On a side note, if people appreciate trail work done in the Wallowas, Hells Canyon and the Blues, consider donating to Wallowa Mountains Hells Canyon Trails Association. The link is below.

https://www.wmhcta.org/home
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

Link to GPX tracks
Link to Trip Reports

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sgyoung
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Re: South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

Post by sgyoung » August 31st, 2022, 8:52 pm

So cool! Thank you for all the time and effort you put into these reports. It seems commensurate with the effort and planning that goes into many of your trips. All of the info about routes, trail conditions, camp site availability, etc., is incredibly valuable. And of course the beautiful photos are pretty cool too

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retired jerry
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Re: South Wallowas Loop: 8/24/22-8/25/22

Post by retired jerry » September 3rd, 2022, 6:42 am

Yeah, excellent report

I haven't been on hardly any of that except the bit up to Eagle Cap. More ideas for me, thanks.

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