Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

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Born2BBrad
Posts: 1086
Joined: May 1st, 2011, 7:26 pm
Location: The Dalles

Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

Post by Born2BBrad » May 14th, 2022, 10:04 am

What: Exploring the Oregon Snake River Trail (OSNR) and Tryon Creek Ranch
When: 5/10/22-5/11/22
Who: Just Me (Born2BBrad)

Opening picture:
Image

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General Information

Itinerary:
• Departed The Dalles, OR early afternoon Monday 5/9
• Drove straight to Pittsburg Landing, ID (1130’)
• Slept in hotel Subaru
• Tuesday morning 5/10 jet boat across Snake River to Pittsburg Bar (1130’)
• North on OSRT to Cow Creek Trail
• Cow Creek Trail to Tyron Creek Ranch (2655’), setting up camp there
• Tryon Creek Ranch to Tryon Bench Trail via partial Cow Creek Trail backtrack
• Wednesday morning 5/11, Tryon Bench Trail to OSRT
• OSRT back to Pittsburg Bar
• Jet boat across Snake River to Pittsburg Landing
• Drove back home

Miles: 27 (some more difficult than others)
EG: 7700’
People encountered: 0 on the trail

References:
Fred Barstad “Hiking Hells Canyon & Idaho's Seven Devils Mountains”. Even though this book was published in 2001, it still has relevant and detailed information.

USFS Wallowa Mountains/Hells Canyon Trail Information. Interactive and way more informative than I thought it would be.

Wallowa Mountains Hells Canyon Trails Association work party reports and trail updates here and here. Think about donating some $$, as sometimes they are the only ones doing trail work out there.

Google Earth overview:
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Topographical overview:
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Elevation profile:
Image

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Research and Preparation

Last year I hiked the Idaho Snake River Trail (ISRT). That got me thinking more about the Oregon Snake River Trail (OSRT). The OSRT is similar to the ISRT, except for a few differences:
- The OSRT is longer
- The OSRT gets much less traffic
- The OSRT high point is 3100’ vs. the ISRT high point of 1600’
- The OSRT is less maintained
- Access to the OSRT is much more difficult

One concern was access. The northernmost access is via a narrow, winding, slick-when-wet, extremely rugged road to Dug Bar. I have heard everything from advice not to try it unless driving a high-clearance 4WD vehicle, to a Subaru could probably make it if driving at a snails pace. No thanks. There is access from Hells Canyon rim, which would require a steep 5000’ hike down and a steep 5000’ hike back up. That access point could also have snow early in the hiking year. Maybe some other time. The other access point would be via jet boat. That’s the approach I took for this trip.

My research on jet boat transportation provided here will be for those who might be interested in hiking the ISRT or the OSRT and using that service. A person may not want to do an out and back trip, or just need to get across the Snake River. There are a small number of companies that provide a shuttle service for backpackers. They use the term “jet up” and “jet back”. I felt most comfortable with Killgore Adventures based out of White Bird, ID. They answered emails and phone calls, as well as had knowledge of the area. This is their business, and they have office staff available to respond. Among the other services they provide are jet boat tours and fishing tours. That is important, since if you can work with scheduled tour dates, it is much less expensive than if a specific shuttle was organized just for a backpacker or two. Killgore Adventures can drop a backpacker off at various locations for various prices. Using ISRT drop-off points, prices per person as of spring 2022 are: $50 to Kirkwood Ranch, $79 to Sheep Creek and $110 to Granite Creek. The $50 is also a minimum charge, even if it’s a drop-off directly across the Snake River. Don’t forget to tip the jet boat driver. Also note that Pittsburg Landing is in a finger of Pacific Standard Time.

A person might be able to get a ride from a private boat owner at Pittsburg landing to take them across the river, and then wave down a ride back. However, I didn’t want to rely on a private boat owner and booked my rides with Killgore. That’s a sure thing.

Another concern was whether the trails really existed. The interactive USFS trail information map indicated many trails in Hells Canyon have not had a record of any maintenance, although some do. Very few, if any, detailed trip reports exist of trails below the Hells Canyon rim. Using CalTopo, a comprehensive mapset was created for all the trails in Hells Canyon, then saved as a KML file to overlay in Google Earth (GE). Every trail was reviewed in GE, zooming in as much as possible, to see if any trace of a trail could be seen. Since there are very few trees out there, if a trace of a trail still existed, it could be seen. That didn’t mean that if a trail could be seen, that a trail was in good condition. On a printed map, I would note what I saw, such as “looks good”, “looks OK”, “faint” or “could not find” in reference to GE. Often times in GE a trail would fade and then reappear. At least I knew that if I lost a trail, I could follow my GPS and I would find the trail again. In a few spots, the actual trail was so far off from the mapset, a line in GE was drawn, saved, then converted to a GPX file. The mapset and GE tracks were saved to my GPS. This diligence and research paid off and kept me on track.

This trip had been in the planning stage for many weeks, waiting for a gap in the weather that was not rainy. I kept pushing it back due to inclement weather, especially the week we got snow in April.

My backpacking gear for this trip:
Image

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Trip Narrative and Pictures

View from Pittsburg Saddle towards Pittsburg Landing:
Image

I caught my jet boat shuttle just as planned. The only hitch was that my clocks had conflicting times due to being so close to the time zone border, so I was ready an hour early just in case. If a shuttle is arranged again, I’ll bring an analog watch that I can be sure it stays on PST.

When approaching the Pittsburg Bar boat ramp on the Oregon side, there was a group of people. It turned out they were Forest Service employees and others with them. They were working on some kind of project and were staying at the FS admin site. They were waiting for their FS jet boat ride, which arrived right after mine. I shared my trip plan and research, and my research was verified with their first-hand knowledge.

One of the FS buildings at the admin site:
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So with confirmation that at least some trail maintenance had been done recently, I was off! Somewhat ironically, the only spot on the OSRT I went that needed maintenance was right behind the FS buildings. It was an impenetrable thicket of blackberry bushes. I guess they assume hikers drop down and pass through the FS admin site.

Pittsburg Landing, ID and Pittsburg Bar, OR boat ramp:
Image

Right away I found evidence of recent trail maintenance. It was clear throughout this trip that, had it not been for this maintenance, sections of the trail would be extremely difficult to pass through. Especially in the drainages and ravines where all sorts of spiny, thorny and all-around nasty vegetation grows, including poison ivy. A special call-out to those who did the maintenance and another nudge to donate to those volunteer groups mentioned above.

Imagine this without maintenance:
Image

Apologies in advance if there seem to be a lot of pictures that look the same, but it was beautiful! From the get-go, views of the green hills and flowers were everywhere and constant. And for the time being, the trail was in great shape, never obscured or blocked.

Snake river and Pittsburg Landing campground:
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Pleasant Valley Creek drainage:
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Maintenance at Pleasant Valley Creek:
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After crossing Pleasant Valley Creek was the first noteworthy climb on a ridge from 1550’ to 2625’. It made me glad that the weather was cool that day.

Looking back down the ridge toward Pleasant Valley Creek:
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Another helpful thing done, in addition to the recent trail maintenance, were new trail junction signs put on cairn posts. Some signs in Hells Canyon are so sun faded and weather worn that they are not legible.

New trail junction sign:
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This sign was at the junction of the OSRT and the High Trail. More on that later.

Continuing north on the OSRT (notice trail in the middle):
Image

Looking back towards Davis Creek:
Image

There were many spring flowers in peak bloom. Pictures of some will be sprinkled throughout the trip report.

Balsamroot:
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On the way up to the OSRT high point of 3100’:
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Coming down from the high point:
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Cairn sign with Englishman Hill in the background:
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Pre-bloom prairie smoke:
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The OSRT heads into Somers Creek drainage. My research noted that Somers Creek would need to be crossed more than once, and it might be a wet crossing. Upon reaching the crossing, it was confirmed this would not be a jump-across or rock-hop.

The first crossing of Somers Creek:
Image

That’s why I brought these:
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So the process of taking of my boots and socks, rolling my pantlegs up and donning the Crocs commenced. What a hassle! The actual crossing wasn’t too bad, with the cold water getting up to my knees. On the other side after the crossing, the process was reversed, except for adding the step of drying my feet and legs. Then I looked at my GPS and saw the next crossing was only 450 feet away and the entire process would likely need to be repeated right away. Crap, I should have checked before putting my boots back on. Sure enough, the second crossing was a wet crossing. After that I hiked in my Crocs for a third of a mile to the last crossing, which was also a wet crossing.

We’re havin’ some fun now!
Image

A path through the poison ivy:
Image

The OSRT follows Somers Creek all the way down until it meets the Snake River. There is a great spot to camp slightly above the river. Flat, open and near Somers Creek. That was not my destination, however.

Camp spot above the Snake River:
Image

Just after the camp spot, there are cliffs that force the OSRT to go up and around 150’ up before coming down to Camp Creek at river level. At Camp Creek is also a nice camp spot. Maybe that’s why it’s called Camp Creek.

Nearing Camp Creek and a camp spot:
Image

Wallflower:
Image

At Camp Creek I got off the OSRT to the Cow Creek Trail. At this point the Cow Creek Trail is an old roadbed. The FS trail maintenance website did not note anything recent on this stretch of the trail up to Tryon Creek Ranch, but it was in good condition and not too steep. No barriers and the trail did not disappear, although it was hard to read in spots nearing Tryon Creek Ranch.

Cow Creek Trail roadbed:
Image

Prickly pear cactus getting ready to bloom:
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Faded cairn trail sign at the Tryon Bench Trail junction:
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Looking back at the junction:
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So green and verdant nearing Tryon Creek Ranch:
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Rusting old farm equipment:
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Finally at the ranch:
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The ranch house:
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Not much history could be found about Tryon Creek Ranch. While no longer a working ranch, the ranch house is still used by the Forest Service, and they sometimes let groups use it. In addition to the ranch house, there is an outbuilding next to the house, a couple of barns, an outhouse and a piped spring. The house has a covered porch that has a table, a chair and a clothesline with clothespins. Best of all, no one was there.

My original plan was to check out the ranch site, then move on to Somers Ranch. However, the weather was getting chilly, with a few sprinkly-dinklies here and there. So I did what I rarely do on backpacking trips, and set up camp early and relaxed. With the amenities and a great view how could I not? I set up my tent on the deck to be off the ground and be shielded from the wind, which was coming from behind the house. I even took advantage of the clothesline and piped spring.

The house was off-limits and locked, but I took some pictures through the windows. It didn’t look too bad in there.

Inside the ranch house:
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I also wandered around the ranch site, checking out what was there.

Outhouse:
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Piped spring:
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The bigger of the two barns:
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Lots of old stuff in the smaller barn:
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Making myself at home:
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At first light the next morning when I got up to go to the bathroom, I checked the thermometer hanging on the porch beam. It read 28 degrees. Yikes! No wonder I had to zip my sleeping bag all the way up. Back to bed. Then the most wonderful thing happened that can happen on a backpacking trip. The sun rose over the Idaho hills and shined directly on my tent, instantly heating up the inside. What a glorious feeling on a cold morning.

The sun shining inside my tent:
Image

The forecast for the day was for sunny skies and a high of 70 degrees. And that’s what it was. I packed up my gear and looked around the ranch one more time before heading off. Unfortunately, my camera stopped working, forcing me to use my iPhone for pictures the rest of the trip. While that takes better pictures, I don’t like keeping it in my pocket while hiking. Oh well.

Looking back at the ranch:
Image

Another piece of old farm equipment:
Image

The original plan for the day was to take the Tryon Bench Trail to Somers Ranch, then take a ridge up to Somers Point at 5700’. The Somers Creek Trail up to Somers Point no longer exists in any form, so a route up the ridge was plotted in Google Earth.

The start of the Tryon Bench Trail:
Image

The Tryon Bench Trail was not as well maintained as the OSRT or even the Cow Creek Trail. However, it was discernable almost the entire way, with me needing GPS navigation assistance only a few times. In addition, while maintenance was not recent, paths were cut through the worst parts of the creek and ravine crossings. If that had not been done, sections would have been impassible. Even so, the trail was overgrown in many places.

Poison ivy crowding the trail:
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An example of where the trail was overgrown:
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Trail cut through blackberry bushes at aptly named Thorny Creek:
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Getting closer to Somers Ranch:
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Indian paintbrush:
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As I was getting closer to Somers Ranch, I kept looking at the ridge route up to Somers Point. It looked doable, just as in Google Earth.

Planned ridge route up to Somers Point:
Image

The former site of Somers Ranch was a big nothing. While I didn’t wander around too much, nothing of interest was found, other than much poison ivy. Once at Somers Ranch, I found that I would have to fight through much brush just to get to the start of the ridge to Somers Point. Blackberry, nootka rose and some kind of bush with one-inch thorns. Google Earth doesn’t show that kind of detail. It would have taken quite a while to find just the right route, then to get through just to begin the ascent. I had visions of torn clothing, a ripped backpack and scratches all over my body.

This is what I would have had to fight to get to the ridge:
Image

An alternate plan was devised to backtrack on the OSRT to the High Trail and take that to Kneeland Place. But before that was one more wet crossing of Somers Creek.

Last crossing of Somers Creek:
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Climbing back up the OSRT high point:
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At the OSRT high point is a knob, called 3249 on the map, that looked like there would be a good view. After climbing the 150’ to the top, sure enough, it was a good view.

Somers Point and the zigzagging trail from the viewpoint:
Image

Snake River from the viewpoint:
Image

360 video from the viewpoint:


Link to video on YouTube

Once at the junction with High Trail, the tread was barely perceptible. My research from Google Earth for this section noted that it was somewhat visible. That meant that it faded in and out and disappeared for stretches. With trepidation I began that section and immediately lost the trail in the grassy meadow. My GPS helped me find it again, but the trail was lost multiple times in just a quarter mile. That didn’t give me high hopes, especially at creek crossings and ravines where lack of maintenance could be a real problem.

The start of the High Trail:
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The decision was made to take the OSRT back to the FS admin site at Pittsburg Bar. There I would reconsider my options. The hike back was just as beautiful as the day before, only with more sunshine and warmer temperatures.

Parting picture looking back on the OSRT:
Image

Back at Pittsburg Bar I used the faucet to wash up, snacked and rested, all while pondering what to do next. One option was to hike upriver on the OSRT and camp at Salt Creek, departing the next day. Another option was to leave some gear at Pittsburg Bar to lighten my load and do an out and back day hike upriver, then camp back at Pittsburg Bar, departing the next day. My scheduled jet boat pick up wasn’t until 4:15 PM the next day so time wasn’t an issue. The weather was, as the forecast called for rain the next day. Rain plus backpacking does not equal fun.

I decided to go to the rivers edge to flag down a jet boat to transport me to the Idaho side. If successful, I would at least me able to sleep in my car out of the rain that night. Not long after getting to the river, a jet boat came from downstream, and to my delight went to the boat dock on the Oregon side where I was dropped off. The dock was a quarter mile away, so I ran, with all my gear, as fast as I could to get to the dock before the boat left.

Just as I was nearing the dock, I came across the same group of Forest Service people I met on the first day. They were walking away from the ramp, and as I greeted them, the boat took off. Fortunately, they were able to radio the Forest Service jet boat operator to come back and get me. Yay!

Since it was still fairly early in the day, I thought about trying to get home that evening. The big problem was that Killgore Adventures was scheduled to pick me up the next day, and if I was a no-show, they might call for a search party for a lost hiker. There is no cell phone coverage at Pittsburg Landing or the road up to Pittsburg Saddle, or even until almost all the way down from Pittsburg Saddle. So I decided to drive until I got a signal to call Killgore to see if I could make sure to cancel my pick up. And that’s what happened. They were able to confirm the cancellation and I was able to make it home that night. It worked out because it rained that night and the next day.

----------------------------------------------------

Trail Condition Details

OSRT from Pittsburg Bar to Camp Creek:
• Recent maintenance done mostly at creek crossings and brushy ravines, but brush work was done elsewhere too.
• USFS Wallowa Mountains/Hells Canyon Trail Information website notes maintenance done in 2021 from Dug Bar in the north all the way to Hat Creek.
• While the trail was in good condition, it was nothing like wide, clear trails you see on Mt. Hood, the Gorge or even the Wallowas.
• No washouts.
• Never overgrown so much the trail could not be seen.
• Three wet creek crossings of Somers Creek.
• Used GPS rarely.

Cow Creek Trail from OSRT to Tryon Creek Ranch:
• Trail is an old roadbed all the way to the ranch
• No recent maintenance.
• Passible, even through creeks and ravines.
• No washouts.
• Rarely overgrown so much the trail could not be seen. Some stretches nearing the ranch were hard to find.
• No wet creek crossings.
• Used GPS a few times.

Tryon Bench Trail:
• No recent maintenance.
• Passible, even through creeks and ravines.
• No washouts.
• Overgrown in many places.
• One wet creek crossing of Somers Creek.
• Consulted GPS a dozen or so times, just to be sure.

----------------------------------------------------

Final Notes
• No cell reception on this trip.
• No permits of any kind are required for parking, hiking or backpacking.
• Route finding skills helpful if attempting this route. A map and GPS are helpful to stay on trails.
• Lots of water sources this time of year.
• If the weather is sunny, this trip would have been almost 100% sun exposure.
• Poison ivy was thick in places, mostly below 2000’ and in drainages.
• Ticks are a concern too, but I soaked my clothes in permethrin and did not see a single one.
• Be aware of rattlesnakes. It was too cold during this trip for them to be out.
• If anyone wants to join me on adventures like these remote and aggressive trips, send me a PM if interested.

Link to pictures on Google Photos:
Link 1
Link 2

Get off the beaten path!

Brad
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

Link to GPX tracks
Link to Trip Reports

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retired jerry
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Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:03 pm

Re: Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

Post by retired jerry » May 14th, 2022, 11:53 am

thanks

maybe this report will motivate me to do a trip there :)

It looks like you could just jump across the creek

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lordgares
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Re: Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

Post by lordgares » May 14th, 2022, 12:20 pm

Amazing, loved the trip report and pictures!
“Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.”
― Terry Pratchett, Jingo

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sgyoung
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Re: Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

Post by sgyoung » May 14th, 2022, 7:00 pm

This is an amazing trip report, and seemingly an amazing trip. I feel like doing this when it's too cold for the rattlesnakes to be active was a solid choice :)

Really remarkable scenery out there though. I need to check out the eastern OR/ID area some day. Every time I see reports from out there it looks amazing.

Thanks for taking the time to write up such a thorough report and share your pictures and route info. Good stuff!

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bobcat
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Re: Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

Post by bobcat » May 17th, 2022, 6:20 am

Another sterling report. It's looking lovely out there!

Re: Dug Bar Road. It's a wonderful drive, one of the most scenic in Oregon. I did it in a Honda CR-V around this time of year after the road had dried out. No problems - but it should definitely be avoided when wet. Clearance is not an issue for any normal AWD.

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Charley
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Re: Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

Post by Charley » May 17th, 2022, 10:16 am

Excellent report!

The amount of native bunchgrass habitat up there is inspiring. Also, can you imagine having lived at the Tryon Ranch? It is so isolated!
Believe it or not, I barely ever ride a mountain bike.

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Born2BBrad
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Joined: May 1st, 2011, 7:26 pm
Location: The Dalles

Re: Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

Post by Born2BBrad » May 17th, 2022, 11:44 am

retired jerry wrote:
May 14th, 2022, 11:53 am
maybe this report will motivate me to do a trip there :)

It looks like you could just jump across the creek
Since you’re retired, you have the time to drive all the way out there :D

Maybe in my younger days without a full pack I could have jumped Somers Creek on the upper crossing.
lordgares wrote:
May 14th, 2022, 12:20 pm
Amazing, loved the trip report and pictures!
I’m glad you enjoyed it.
sgyoung wrote:
May 14th, 2022, 7:00 pm
This is an amazing trip report, and seemingly an amazing trip. I feel like doing this when it's too cold for the rattlesnakes to be active was a solid choice :)

Really remarkable scenery out there though. I need to check out the eastern OR/ID area some day. Every time I see reports from out there it looks amazing.

Thanks for taking the time to write up such a thorough report and share your pictures and route info. Good stuff!
I have a pair of snake gaiters for trips there when the weather is warmer.

Yeah, while time consuming, writing trip reports is a labor of love.
bobcat wrote:
May 17th, 2022, 6:20 am
Another sterling report. It's looking lovely out there!

Re: Dug Bar Road. It's a wonderful drive, one of the most scenic in Oregon. I did it in a Honda CR-V around this time of year after the road had dried out. No problems - but it should definitely be avoided when wet. Clearance is not an issue for any normal AWD.
Good to hear first-hand verification of Dug Bar Road. That is the next area planned for. The research is already done.
Charley wrote:
May 17th, 2022, 10:16 am
Excellent report!

The amount of native bunchgrass habitat up there is inspiring. Also, can you imagine having lived at the Tryon Ranch? It is so isolated!
Yes, lots of grass out there.

I was wondering how they got all the material out there to build the ranch house and barns. Maybe on the wagon road up Camp Creek?
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

Link to GPX tracks
Link to Trip Reports

AlpenGlowHiker
Posts: 81
Joined: May 14th, 2020, 6:35 am
Location: Portland

Re: Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

Post by AlpenGlowHiker » May 17th, 2022, 1:05 pm

Brad,

Fantastic report, I really appreciate the amount of detail and effort that you put into these!

Curious if you've created an OpenStreetMap account? Updating the trail routes there would trickle down to CalTopo and Gaia GPS.

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Born2BBrad
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Re: Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

Post by Born2BBrad » May 17th, 2022, 3:51 pm

AlpenGlowHiker wrote:
May 17th, 2022, 1:05 pm
Brad,

Fantastic report, I really appreciate the amount of detail and effort that you put into these!

Curious if you've created an OpenStreetMap account? Updating the trail routes there would trickle down to CalTopo and Gaia GPS.
I used to load some of my GPX tracks to GPSFly, but that site no longer exists. You prompted me to think about loading some of them to another site. Especially tracks for obscure, or lesser known places. Trip Track seems to be the easiest, so I'll give that a try.
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

Link to GPX tracks
Link to Trip Reports

Webfoot
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Joined: November 25th, 2015, 11:06 am
Location: Troutdale

Re: Hells Canyon: 5/10/22-5/11/22

Post by Webfoot » May 31st, 2022, 11:03 am

Thanks for another lovely trip report.

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