Cape Disappointment 2/13/2022

[pdxalex]

For a change of pace, I decided to go for a drive and check out the trails at Cape Disappointment, just outside of Ilwaco, WA. It is a Washington State Park on the site of a former coastal defense installation with two lighthouses. The lighthouses, interpretive center, campground, and major gun emplacements are connected by well maintained trails. I arrived at the interpretive center parking lot at 0815 (the center doesn't open until 10). It was clear, no wind, about 40 degrees. From the lot, I went south to the Cape Disappointment lighthouse, loitered on the beach at Deadman's Cove, retraced my steps and went north through the campground to the North Lighthouse, poked around there for quite a bit absorbing the scenery, reversed course again to return to the Interpretive Center with a detour to McKenzie Head to visit Battery 247.

It was a lovely hike. Parts of the hike were on the shoulder of roads, i.e. the last quarter mile to the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse and the road through the campground. The trails are well maintained. The park rates the North Head trail, between Battery 247 (McKenzie Head) and the North Lighthouse, as difficult. It isn’t much compared to the typical Gorge or mountain hike but it is relatively steep in a few short sections with tree roots large enough to function as steps. It can also be very muddy with planks laid through the mud to provide a more solid surface. On a clear day, you get great views to across the Columbia down to Tillamook Head. From Beards Hollow, you have views to the north of Long Beach. There are plenty of signs of wildlife in the park. I encountered deer several times and was watched by raccoons exploring recently vacated campsites. The trails are very well marked. I didn’t bother with a GPS but my phone said I put in about 7 miles, which I don't really trust, with about 250 feet gained/lost multiple times. It was a beautiful day capped off with a sandwich and a beer at the Ilwaco harbor and some nosing around in the local bookstore. On the return trip, I spent some time exploring Fort Columbia just down the road from Ilwaco.

Cape Disappointment lighthouse

The view to the south

Looking north from Cape Disappointment with the Interpretive Center at Battery Harvey Allen in the foreground

Deadman's Cove, just below the lighthouse

North Lighthouse

Keepers quarters at the North Lighthouse, available as vacation rentals

A view of the beach through the trees

Battery 247 observation post which reminded me of the German bunkers in Normandy

Entrance into Battery 247

[jvangeld]

Last time I was there, (June of 2021, possibly) the Coast Guard had posted a ton of signs saying that Deadman's Cove was closed. It would be really cool if it is open again.

[retired jerry]

thanks, nice area, I've been there many times

too bad they don't add a few trail segments so you don't have to walk on the side of the road

washington state parks are funded off of fees so they don't have a lot to work with

[pdxalex]

Regarding Deadman's Cove, there weren't any signs along the trail that said the beach was closed. There are obvious trails down to the beach as well as reinforced steps cut into the bank. Given that the lumber used in the steps is of differing sizes, it looks like they're user built. However, once you're on the beach and turn around to return to the trail, you will see two "no trespassing" signs posted on a couple of trees. I don't know why they face the ocean unless they're meant to stop someone arriving by boat.