Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

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Born2BBrad
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Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

Post by Born2BBrad » January 22nd, 2022, 9:57 pm

What: Exploring the north side of the Criterion Tract
When: 1/21/22
Who: Just Me (Born2BBrad)

Opening picture:
Image

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General Information

Route Day:
• Devil Canyon CG
• 1.6 mile Up jeep track north of Little Devil Canyon
• 1.5 mile XC over to descent of ravine to Devil Canyon Creek
• .25 mile downstream
• 1 mile up ridge to Devil Canyon Overlook
• .7 mile XC to jeep track
• .9 mile on jeep track to where it enters private property
• .4 mile XC following property line
• .2 mile on road track to previous jeep track coming out of private property
• 1.4 mile on jeep track to Locked Gate Trail
• 1.4 mile XC to jeep track
• 2.4 mile down jeep track, with side trip to Stag Point
• 1 mile down jeep track & XC to road
• 1 mile up and back on road to confirm easement sign
• 4 mile on road to bike at Locked Gate
• 1.9 bike ride back to car

Miles: 19.25
EG: 3150
People encountered: 3

References: Criterion Tract Loop Hike on Oregon Hikers

Google Earth overview:
Image

Note: Red is public land border and blue is my route

Topographical overview:
Image

Elevation profile:
Image

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Trip Narrative and Pictures

Not that many people know about the Criterion Tract, thousands of acres purchased by the BLM in 1995 just south of Maupin. Even fewer people have visited there. A miniscule number of people have explored the more remote areas.

Wanting to know more about where public access and public lands are for the Criterion Tract, extensive research was done. Using the Wasco County Public Basemap of property lines and ownership, a border of the BLM Criterion Tract was made and converted to a GPX file. That file was imported into CalTopo and Google Earth. Using those sources, old jeep tracks and XC routes were mapped, creating a master Criterion Tract GPX file. Two routes were then mapped out, one for the north and one for the south. Research was also done on the easement on the Deschutes River Access Road. Lots more on that later.

Knowing that there would be some road walking and some of that section was open to bikes, I brought my bike and locked it near the Locked Gate. Not the Locked Gate blocking the Deschutes River Access Road, but to the gate on what I am calling the Locked Gate Trail.

Sign on the Locked Gate referencing public access:
Image

Another sign near the Locked Gate referencing public access:
Image

Remember these signs for later in the TR.

I backtracked in my car down to near Devil Canyon CG to start the trip.

Park here just south of this concrete section of road:
Image

The old jeep track starts here:
Image

The jeep track takes a sharp left turn uphill:
Image

Looking back at my car:
Image

A fire pit along the way:
Image

First glimpse of Mt. Hood:
Image

The jeep track continues uphill:
Image

The jeep track eventually meets a private property fence line and disappears. It’s at this point I followed the fence line south.

The master GPX file had been loaded to my GPS, which included the property lines. Curious to see how accurate it was, I stood next to the fence and looked at what my GPS showed. It was spot on and was so every time it was compared to a fence line.

Red line = property line, left side public land. White line planned route:
Image

Just follow the fence for a while:
Image

Little Devil Canyon, Deschutes Canyon and Mt. Hood:
Image

Because of the property line, in order to continue on, a descent into Devil Canyon down to the creek floor had to be done. Google Earth research helped greatly plan this stretch. GE showed mostly impassible cliffs, but also showed one ravine that looked possible. Upon reaching the ravine, is was difficult, but not too dangerous. And the cliffs were impassible.

The beginning of the descent:
Image

Pretty steep and rocky, but no cliffs:
Image

Finally down at creek level:
Image

Once at the creek, I had to climb out of Devil Canyon. Google Earth research helped me find a ridge that was passible, as most ridges had cliffs.

Up, up, up!
Image

Looking back the way I came:
Image

Once on the ridge, I went over to a place I called Devil Canyon Overlook. From Google Earth, it looked like there would be a great view. Alas, it was too wide and flat for a view. So I continued XC to where another jeep track was supposed to be.

Can you see the jeep track?
Image

Flat with lots of views in this section:
Image

The jeep track continues gently uphill for a while:
Image

Coyote tracks:
Image

Human track (not mine):
Image

Eventually this jeep trail goes onto private property:
Image

So it’s time follow the fence again XC…:
Image

… to a corner:
Image

Once at the corner post, there is a jeep track that meets the previous jeep track that went on private property.

The jeep track at this point is barely visible:
Image

This jeep track continues gently uphill for a while before reaching a point where is reached private property again:
Image

Follow the fence line XC down and up a ravine:
Image

View from the other side of the ravine:
Image

Follow an animal trail for a bit:
Image

Pass the corner of private property and pass an old fence:
Image

Finally meeting up with the jeep track that comes from the Criterion Crest track:
Image

Looking up towards the Criterion Crest:
Image

This jeep track continues past Stag Point and goes all the way down to the Deschutes River Access Road.

360 video heading towards Stag Point:


Link to video on YouTube

Jeep track heading towards Stag Point:
Image

Stag Point:
Image

The jeep track continues downhill:
Image

Getting back to my meticulous planning relating to property lines and route. The entire time I was referencing my GPS to stay on course. The property lines on my GPS always matched fences. So I knew where private property was. This jeep track stayed on public land up until about 1485’. Before that point, my plan was to take a route down a ridge and then a ravine, staying on public land. At about 1890’ was an old gate with a new looking no trespassing sign.

Old Gate and no trespassing sign:
Image

Now I knew this was not private property yet, so I continued down. Shortly thereafter I saw some mountain bikers on their way up. Upon reaching them, they said I was trespassing on Portland Deschutes Club land, and that they were members of the Portland Deschutes Club. I assured them they were wrong, explaining my method of research. They weren’t convinced, but didn’t push the issue, as I think I made them think twice about it. While it is true that jeep track begins on their property at road level, I was over 3/4 of a mile from their property line and had planned to avoid that section of the jeep track. They also mentioned that regardless of my planned route, where I would end up on the road would violate the easement, as the easement ends at a certain point. Again, they didn’t push the issues and we agreed to disagree. They continued uphill and I never saw them again. Some following pictures will prove I did not violate the easement.

Continuing down after the no trespassing sign:
Image

Once at the road, I decided to go upriver to where the public land ends, to see if that’s where the sign stating the end of the easement was. Guess what? It was.

Sign indicating end of easement:
Image

So that means the easement allowing pedestrians begins at the locked gate and extends four miles to the point where this section of public land ends.

The four mile road walk back to the locked gate to where my bike was locked seemed like ten miles. Sure, it was scenic being next to the river the entire time, but it was getting dark and I was exhausted.

Nice river walk:
Image

Lots of structures, including houses on both sides of the river:
Image

At a certain point there is a Portland Deschutes Club caretaker house. There was a sign there noting they require everyone to sign in and sign out. Since I was coming from the opposite direction, I didn’t sign in or out. This sign was further proof that the easement ends at the point upriver where the section of public land ends.

Sign at caretaker house:
Image

By the time I reached my bike, I had to use my headlamp and bike light to see where I was going. It was only about two miles, but I was glad to be riding a bike rather than walking. It was a sight for sore eyes upon getting back to my car.

----------------------------------------------------

Final Notes
• Cell reception for most of the trip, sometimes 5G.
• No pass required to park on the side of the road on BLM land.
• Much route finding skills required if attempting this route. A map and GPS are absolutely necessary.
• No water available most of the year.
• Expect to see a TR on the Criterion Tract southern side in coming weeks.

Link to pictures on Google Photos:
Link 1
Link 2

----------------------------------------------------

Regarding the Portland Deschutes Club and the easement, I fell down an Internet rabbit hole. The club was founded in 1933 by a group of Portland police and fire officials who bought a section of an abandoned Union Pacific Railroad line and other property, including about 12 miles of riverfront land. The all-male club allows only 50 members, and today includes some of the Portland area’s best known businessmen. Hundreds of men are on a waiting list for the club.

Much information was found about lawsuits and attempts to revoke the easement and attempts to open the road to all traffic. What I couldn’t find was the reason why the easement is the way it is now. The best answer picked from the information is that it is a compromise. Maybe some Oregon Hiker detectives can find the answer.

There are some resources here, here and
here.
Last edited by Born2BBrad on January 23rd, 2022, 12:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

Link to GPX tracks
Link to Trip Reports

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adamschneider
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Re: Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

Post by adamschneider » January 23rd, 2022, 12:58 am

I just double-checked the Criterion Tract boundaries (so I could make sure everything was OK on OpenStreetMap), and you're absolutely correct: that "no trespassing" sign is a full mile further north than it should be.

Interestingly, the Locked Gate Day-Use Area (where you left your bike) is Deschutes Club land too, but they must have an arrangement/easement with the BLM that allows people to park there.

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retired jerry
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Re: Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

Post by retired jerry » January 23rd, 2022, 6:25 am

Thanks for the report and info

I've been on the road by the river and walked by those threatening signs. And driven by on 197 and walked a short way into the tract. Looks like I have more opportunity. Looking forward to the south report

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drm
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Re: Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

Post by drm » January 23rd, 2022, 9:41 am

What is the ratio of research hours to hiking hours? :lol:

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Charley
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Re: Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

Post by Charley » January 23rd, 2022, 10:25 am

Terrific report!

Does anyone know if these are native bunchgrasses, or cheatgrass? Or is it crested wheatgrass seeded by the BLM? It looks so much healthier than sagebrush+cheatgrass.
Born2BBrad wrote:
January 22nd, 2022, 9:57 pm
Looking back the way I came:
Image
Believe it or not, I barely ever ride a mountain bike.

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bobcat
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Re: Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

Post by bobcat » January 23rd, 2022, 12:00 pm

Great report, Brad! I'm positively in awe of all your research. I have not explored the north end of Criterion partly because of the way the boundaries are configured and possibility of getting cliffed out heading cross-country.

A couple of questions:

* Your descent from Stag Point and the bogus No Trespassing sign took you down the broad low ridge on the right side of your 5th from last photo, right? Was there a fence or anything physical that told you when to leave the road?

* The locked gate in your first photo is at the bottom of the green road ("Locked Gate Trail") on your map, right? Even though this road crosses a corner of private property, one could follow it all the way up to the crest?

A couple of shorter loops using the green road would cover the same territory as your grueling exploration, I think.

To Charley's question:
Does anyone know if these are native bunchgrasses, or cheatgrass?
Bunchgrass.

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adamschneider
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Re: Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

Post by adamschneider » January 23rd, 2022, 12:16 pm

bobcat wrote:
January 23rd, 2022, 12:00 pm
* The locked gate in your first photo is at the bottom of the green road ("Locked Gate Trail") on your map, right? Even though this road crosses a corner of private property, one could follow it all the way up to the crest?
Brad was a little too conservative in his drawing of the boundary of the BLM land. The trail that goes up from Locked Gate does NOT cross any private property until it gets near the top.
Taxlot 6S 14E 0 400.jpg

Here's the Criterion Tract relation on OpenStreetMap, which I've checked and double-checked against the Wasco County assessor's map: https://www.openstreetmap.org/relation/10917098
Criterion Tract.jpg

And I've attached it to this post as a GPX file.
Attachments
BLM Criterion Tract.gpx
(20.01 KiB) Downloaded 165 times

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Born2BBrad
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Re: Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

Post by Born2BBrad » January 23rd, 2022, 1:27 pm

drm wrote:
January 23rd, 2022, 9:41 am
What is the ratio of research hours to hiking hours? :lol:
It’s funny you ask that because I thought the same thing. At least 5 hours of research, map making and trip planning. This would be for the entire Criterion Tract. Not quite 8 hiking hours. There will be more trips there, so the ROI will get better. Plus, this research will benefit others, as this kind of information did not exist prior.

I have done the same kind of research and planning for other places. Some I will TR about, and others not.
bobcat wrote:
January 23rd, 2022, 12:00 pm
Great report, Brad! I'm positively in awe of all your research. I have not explored the north end of Criterion partly because of the way the boundaries are configured and possibility of getting cliffed out heading cross-country.
Thanks Bobcat. Maybe this TR will help.
bobcat wrote:
January 23rd, 2022, 12:00 pm
* Your descent from Stag Point and the bogus No Trespassing sign took you down the broad low ridge on the right side of your 5th from last photo, right? Was there a fence or anything physical that told you when to leave the road?
There is a point on that jeep track at about 1640’ where there is a very faint side jeep track that goes for about a half mile down the gentle ridge, then ends. From there it’s the path of least resistance down a ravine to the road. I was in a hurry and didn’t stop for a picture break on this section, although I should have.
bobcat wrote:
January 23rd, 2022, 12:00 pm
* The locked gate in your first photo is at the bottom of the green road ("Locked Gate Trail") on your map, right? Even though this road crosses a corner of private property, one could follow it all the way up to the crest?

A couple of shorter loops using the green road would cover the same territory as your grueling exploration, I think.
I was going to get into that option for a shorter loop, but I thought my TR was long enough as it was. First, there are two locked gates right there. One blocks the Deschutes River Access Road, with the signs. The other eventually leads to the Criterion Crest trail. This one is what I called the Locked Gate Trail and is the green trail on the first map in the TR (yellow on the second map).

The beginning of that trail starts on very small section of Portland Deschutes Club land, but where parking is allowed near the Locked Gate. My interpretation is hikers are allowed to start there. After reviewing the Wasco County Public Basemap, it was discovered that the section in the middle I originally excluded from my public land map is indeed public land (Taxlot 6S 14E 0 400 / Taxpayer UNITED STATES OF AMERICA as Adam confirmed). What can I say, I’m not perfect :) This is why it’s great to have a community like ours sharing information.

So the short answer is yes, that would be a legal way creating a couple shorter loops.
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

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retired jerry
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Re: Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

Post by retired jerry » January 23rd, 2022, 1:39 pm

BLM brochure https://www.blm.gov/or/districts/prinev ... ct_map.pdf

matches your gpx, has official trails on it

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Re: Criterion Tract North: 1/21/22

Post by adamschneider » January 23rd, 2022, 4:57 pm

retired jerry wrote:
January 23rd, 2022, 1:39 pm
BLM brochure ... has official trails on it
I think "official" is a stretch. Some of them are game trails, some aren't there at all. I'm really surprised that they drew so many on their map.

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