Bull of the Woods - various trails

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Aimless
Posts: 1926
Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:02 pm
Location: Lake Oswego

Bull of the Woods - various trails

Post by Aimless » July 19th, 2009, 11:38 am

I just returned from a 3 night backpack in the Bull of the Woods wilderness.

IMPORTANT! -- The north side trailheads accessed via Road 63 are nearly inaccessible, because Road 63 is closed at Fan Creek CG. This leaves both Bagby Hot Springs TH and Whetstone Mtn. TH normally accessible, but Dickey Creek TH, Bull of the Woods Lookout TH, and Pansy Lake TH can only be accessed via rather tortured back road detours that run up from Detroit, OR.

If you are considering a hike in BotW, call ahead to the Clackamas FS Ranger Station (Estacada) for Road 63 availability.

I started at Bagby Hot Springs TH (2200 ft?) a bit after noon. It was a hot day for sure. I scooted past the hot springs as quickly as I could, because I don't like crowds and headed up the Collawash toward Silver King Lake (~7.5 miles up trail). It was an uneventful hike. The prettiest spot of all is where Betty Creek flows into the Collawash River. Down at 3000 ft. this elevation has few bugs and the river creates a coolish breeze. It is my favorite place to rest my feet and listen to the murmur of the water.

I made it up to Silver King Lake (4000 ft) by 5pm and set up camp. Here the mosquitoes were out in numbers where you could live with them, but could not ignore them. I was able to wash up in the lake before supper. The lake has a thick population of newts, who showed no concern for my presence. The fish I saw were all small ones, but were eating eagerly. I was rooting for them against the mosquitoes!

Next morning I was hiking by 8:30 am and it was already warm. I don't think it got below 55 degrees in the night. The trail was narrow and brushy (as I described in the Trail Rx forum) and continued that way until the junction with Elk Lake trail. From there, it was relatively well-groomed.

I continued to Twin Lakes, meeting several groups just leaving there. Twin Lakes is easily the most popular place I visited, and for a reason. The lakes are deep and green and pretty. They would appear to be good fishing, too (but I am not a fisherman). I kept going past them, up a gradual climb around a ridge and back down into the Mother Lode Creek drainage. After the junction with trail 558, the trail once more became brushy and overgrown until a couple of miles later, as the trail began to climb again toward the saddle where it junctions with the Pansy Lake trail.

This five mile (?) section beyond Twin Lakes is sometimes damp, but not with drinkable water. Just as the trail began to climb again it passed a shallow pool of spring water (it was both cold and clear) that I foolishly bypassed in my haste to climb the hill. When I got to the Pansy Lake trail junction I discovered my two-liter Platypus was almost dry. Still ahead of me was a 1000 ft. climb up Bull of the Woods mountain and several more dry miles. It was about 85 degrees. I decided to bail out and headed down to Pansy Lake, making a 9.5 mile day.

I can't say Pansy Lake is especially pretty. However, because of the inaccessibility of the the Pansy Lake TH, it was strangely secluded and empty of people. I had it all to myself that night, unless you count the mosquitoes, biting black flies and horse flies. They seemed glad to see me!

The next day I had to retrace my steps, since this wasn't a loop hike. It was beastly hot. However, I kept drinking water, and I learned my lesson about refilling at every acceptable watering spot. Also, my pack was lighter and I had my walking legs back under me. The highlight of the day was listening to two hermit thrushes trying to outdo one another in the midafternoon as I sat and munched trail mix overlooking the Collawash basin.

Instead of camping at Silver King Lake again, I tacked on a few more miles in order to descend to the Collawash and have an abundance of clean, cold water. Also, many fewer bugs. That made about a 12 mile day. I ended up in a nice site, with a mossy-rock to sit on in the middle of the river and to daydream. Also, it felt great to stand in calf-deep water and wash off the sweat and grime of the trail day.

The next day I slept late, lazed around until after lunchtime, then finally lollygagged my way back to the car. The out-and-back trip was in the neighborhood of 34 total miles.

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Jabali
Posts: 154
Joined: August 10th, 2008, 1:45 am
Location: Clackamas River
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Re: Bull of the Woods - various trails

Post by Jabali » July 21st, 2009, 10:07 pm

Nice report on a good route to a good area! :D

I've slept at Silver King Lake in year past - one time my dog Charlie growled and barked the whole night - the only time he did that - I can only assume he has good reason for it.

Most visitors do not see it, but uphill to the West from Pansy Lake are six foot thick fire-scarred firs and a mine shaft. There isn't supposed to be mine shafts in wilderness areas, but there it is, complete with abandoned equipment. I don't know if it was missed or ignored when the wilderness was vetted.

Also about a quarter mile along the Pansy Basin Trail North from the lake junction is Trail 549, which takes you to Dickey Ridge and Bull of the Woods lookout. This would have made a nice loop out of your hike.
....where does that trail go?

joerunner
Posts: 799
Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:03 pm

Re: Bull of the Woods - various trails

Post by joerunner » July 22nd, 2009, 5:45 am

Good report. I've never been to this area but plan on going someday soon. I always thought it might be nice finishing up a long day or trip with a dip at bagby.

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