Loowit Trail Revisited

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K.Wagner
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Loowit Trail Revisited

Post by K.Wagner » June 24th, 2018, 5:47 pm

Friday & Saturday, I made a semi-serious attempt at summiting Mt St Helens' second summit, on the east side of the Shoestring Glacier Canyon. (In the peak bagger's world, if 2 summits are separated by a minimum of a 300 ft saddle, each counts as a "summit") Last Saturday I had made a recon hike up from June Lake to the Pine Creek Canyon and thought that I had a pretty good understanding of what was ahead of me. Silly Me!

This is what I saw then, before I got chased out by a string of spectacular storm cells moving in from the east. I do have to admit that it was pretty fun sitting up there above timberline, watching those cells move down the Lewis River, complete with big lightening strikes & big rattily booms. I did keep looking back over my shoulder, expecting one to sneak up on me as I hustled trying to get back down into the timber.
33-Clouds on summit-S.jpg
My proposed route was to be mostly up the bare ridge on the far side of the Shoestring Glacier Canyon. It all looked very doable that day.

So, I got off work early Friday, and drove up to the June Lake Parking area. It did seem a little odd, that never having been there before, yet here I was again in a week....

Here is the obligatory shot of the waterfall over the lake.
40-June Lake-S.jpg
I discovered an interesting detail about that creek. The Loowit Trail crosses the creek on a land bridge. The creek emerges from the Worm Flows rock pile about 100 yards above the trail.
37-June Creek-S.jpg
Then it disappears back into the rock for at least another 100 yards below the trail. This is looking down towards the lake.
02-June Crk, downstream-s.jpg
Then, it emerges again, only to fall into the lake!

Much of the trail is pretty rough as it traverses the 500 year old Worm Flow lavas. This stuff must have moved like day old cookie dough! The timber right at the edge of the flow doesn't even show any signs of fire.
04-Worm Flow lava.jpg
Then, around 4:00 pm, this is what the mountain looked like, with sun getting low on the horizon.
08-MSH.jpg
Suddenly, all I could see was cliffs reflecting the sun! I have to admit that I uttered a few unkind words about my lack of perspective about the true nature of this ridge. How could I have been so naive? Now I was looking at 3,000 feet of steep snow. I had never done that before. It had been probably 35 years since I had any real ice ax practice, and I knew that my legs were in no condition to accomplish that. More unkind words, with even an obscenity or 2 thrown in for good measure. What was I to do? Carry on of course.

So, about 4 1/2 miles up, I set up my tent in the shelter of a small rock ridge and settled in for the evening and set my alarm for 3:30.
11-tent-S.jpg
Along about midnight, the patter of light rain woke me up. Then several more times it woke me. My alarm went off as set. I opened the door and looked out. The fog was so thick, I could barely make out the rock 25 feet away. So the climb was officially scrubbed …. Thank You Lord!

I finally crawled out of the tent about 8:30, when the clouds finally lifted and it was starting to get light. I had decided to continue hiking the trail, perhaps as far as the Ape Canyon junction, just to see what was there. I knew that there were some canyons, and that's about all I knew. Immediately past my campsite, the huckleberry bushes started. The loud buzz of bees was just everywhere. A lot of the bushes already had fruit set on them. And there were humming birds everywhere too. I saw one flying with a small flock of sparrows. They landed in a tree and it landed too. Of course, being ADHD, it couldn't stand to sit still for very long before taking off. The standing snags in the picture had to have been killed by the 1980 eruption.
13-Huckleberries-S.jpg
Then I came to the first canyon, Pine Creek. Moderately impressive!
14-1st canyon.jpg
Then I came to the Shoestring Canyon. My heart just about stopped ….. If it hadn't rained & fogged, I would have been facing this under head lamp. I honestly couldn't imagine even trying it, because it was so intimidating in full daylight!
20-Shoestring canyon-S.jpg
If you can't pick out the trail, I am standing on it. Then draw a line down to the first snow patch. That's the trail. Then you climb over a small ridge, only to drop into the main canyon. Shoestring Falls are immediately down slope of the trail.
24-Shoestring Falls-S.jpg
When I finally got down to the creek (more loose, steep, scary stuff), I was surprised to see a steel plate down in the water! It looked like at some time, it was the base for a bridge pier. If so, I would be surprised if it lasted through one spring melt.
28-Steel plate-S.jpg
Then it was the climb out of the canyon, on a similarly loose scree trail, just steeper yet.
31-Shoestring canyon.jpg
Again, if you can't pick out the trail, start in the lower left corner, and draw a line to the boulder on the skyline.

Then it was up over another ridge, only to see another canyon. From the top of the ridge, this was the view back towards my intended route. Ugly! Again, Thank You Lord!
32-Route detail-S.jpg
It was along in here, that I was surprised to hear foot steps behind me. It was a trail runner. He had started at the Climbers Bivouac, and was going to Windy Pass, then return. He said that he was training for the Volcanic 50 Run, which is early August. I looked it up, 50 km (32 mi) around the mountain, 7,400 feet of elevation gain. Last year the winner did it in 15:41!
35-Alex.jpg
So I finally called it quits at the top of the last ridge before the Muddy River. I had been on the last part of the trail to the Ape Canyon Trail a few weeks earlier, and just wasn't inspired to do it again.

This picture that I had taken earlier
14-1st canyon.jpg
shows my next attempt route well. I don't see any nasty cliffs on this view!

Final numbers for the trip: 13 3/4 miles, 3,140 feet.
Kelly
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Chip Down
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Re: Loowit Trail Revisited

Post by Chip Down » June 24th, 2018, 7:36 pm

Fascinating! Fail-tail [dammit, I meant to write fail tale] TRs are good too.
I waffled on June or Ape approach. I just hate that Ape Canyon trail!
Imagine how interesting it would have been if I had done June, and we were on the mountain at the same time.
Wouldn't it be interesting to see how our stories compared?

If I wanted to get to that point from the June side, I wouldn't want to mess with those canyon crossings either. From the first really daunting drop, turn uphill instead on an obvious ridge. See my pic below. You can just barely make out a couple waterfalls, which I've indicated with yellow arrows. It's easy enough to bypass those on the left, and then drop onto the glacier. But my pics suggest getting off the glacier to access your summit ridge would be hairy. Ah, but look at the gentle mounds to the right of the lower waterfall. Doesn't it look like that would get you there with minimal undulating?

What fun! :D

Oops, almost forgot to drag my pic over.
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K.Wagner
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Re: Loowit Trail Revisited

Post by K.Wagner » June 24th, 2018, 8:05 pm

Here is a better shot, straight up the Shoestring Glacier Canyon. Nothing around those falls looks very inviting to me....
17-Shoestring Glacier-S.jpg
Kelly
There is no shortcut to anyplace worth going to.

PM me about the soon to be released:
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Chip Down
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Re: Loowit Trail Revisited

Post by Chip Down » June 24th, 2018, 8:28 pm

Hmmm...I guess I'm stumped then. Anyway, I guess my advice wasn't very good, considering you already expressed some reservations about that ridge.

You wrote "This picture that I had taken earlier shows my next attempt route well. I don't see any nasty cliffs on this view," so I guess you have Plan B already in the works. I look forward to the TR.

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K.Wagner
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Re: Loowit Trail Revisited

Post by K.Wagner » June 26th, 2018, 9:26 am

I suspect that much of the differences on route choices can be explained by our age differences... I suspect that I have 25 to 30 years on you. ;)
Kelly
There is no shortcut to anyplace worth going to.

PM me about the soon to be released:
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Chip Down
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Re: Loowit Trail Revisited

Post by Chip Down » June 26th, 2018, 11:20 am

Well, not quite that much. Funny you should mention it though; just a couple days ago I looked at your profile, and was shocked. People like you and Don really know how to prove old guys can still be pretty tough!

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K.Wagner
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Re: Loowit Trail Revisited

Post by K.Wagner » June 26th, 2018, 11:33 am

We just refuse to give up, that's all!
Kelly
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johnspeth
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Re: Loowit Trail Revisited

Post by johnspeth » June 26th, 2018, 1:55 pm

I'd like to offer an alternate route to the "other top". I've visited Windy Pass a few times in the past several years. I always linger at the pass to watch for goats. The view from the pass suggests that the climb to the rim should be snow free in the summer and comparable to the ridge just east of the Shoestring Glacier. Now what it's like near the top along the rim is unknown. But I know from at least a dozen climbs on the Climbers Bivouac route that moving along the rim is easier than up-climbing. The rim has relatively tame terrain. The satellite view from Hillmap.com (actually Google data) also suggests the terrain is relatively tame near the rim.

Taking my suggested route, it takes you to the 7657 peak above the Nelson Glacier in about 2-3 miles from Windy Pass (according to CalTopoFS). From there, it's a half mile to 8124 peak (Dogs Head according to Google) and another half mile to 8140 peak just east of the Shoestring Glacier. Mind you, the route up from Windy Pass is all speculation from me studying maps so YMMV. It sounds like this route is near the route of the once planned but abandoned new trail that the forest service has been considering. I think they call it the Sugar Bowl trail.

The approach you took looks a little laborious compared to my Windy Pass route. My Windy pass route requires you to do some special things:
1. Wait for Road 99 to Windy Ridge to open. I don't think it's open now but it'll probably open very soon.
2. Take a bike from the end of Road 99 to the old parking lot at the 216E/207 trail junction. It'll save you time and energy for the approach. The 2 mile road is slightly uphill or flat or downhill, which should be easy during your approach and moderate work on your return. It's 2 miles more of foot travel to get to Windy Pass at 4900 ft.

So what's wrong with my plan? It's the obvious uncertainty of the terrain at the top of the Sugar Bowl. We're hoping you can report it to us someday :)

Finally, I think that snow travel in the right conditions can be better than slogging over boulders and ash. I'd pick a day that guarantees soft snow and then bring along my preferred foot traction devices.

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Don Nelsen
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Re: Loowit Trail Revisited

Post by Don Nelsen » June 26th, 2018, 4:47 pm

Hey Kelly,

Nice job! You continue to prove that you are an animal.

I've been so busy with other endeavors I have yet to put together a plan to get to that summit you just attempted but it is also on my short list. Thanks for the good info and report.

dn
"Everything works in the planning stage" - Kelly

"If you don't do it this year, you will be one year older when you do" - Warren Miller

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Don Nelsen
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Re: Loowit Trail Revisited

Post by Don Nelsen » June 26th, 2018, 4:48 pm

johnspeth wrote:
June 26th, 2018, 1:55 pm
I'd like to offer an alternate route to the "other top"...

...Finally, I think that snow travel in the right conditions can be better than slogging over boulders and ash. I'd pick a day that guarantees soft snow and then bring along my preferred foot traction devices.
John,
Thanks for the info and advice.
"Everything works in the planning stage" - Kelly

"If you don't do it this year, you will be one year older when you do" - Warren Miller

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