Cottonwood Canyon S.P. - Hard Stone Trail 5/6/17

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daver
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Joined: March 3rd, 2012, 10:06 am

Cottonwood Canyon S.P. - Hard Stone Trail 5/6/17

Post by daver » May 7th, 2017, 9:04 am

I saw that my home of Pendleton would be in the clouds all day Saturday and the unusual prospect of heading west to get sunnier and warmer was obvious. I was going to make the early morning run to Dog Mountain, but thought hmm what about something in the desert and maybe lonelier. I found that there was a sort of unofficial 10 mile hike with some elevation at the Cottonwood Canyon State Park and I have been curious what the park is like. I jokingly sent my wife a text telling her I was on a tick and snake hunt, and started the loop that would lead me from Arlington to Condon and across to Wasco via the new park and canyon.

The drive to the park was full of great photo opportunities with the occasional tiny remnant farm communities like Olex and Mikkalo with their old dying remnant buildings, and Condon that is actually thriving for a small town in the middle of nowhere. The drive was sunny, but very cold. Where it had been in the 50s earlier along the Columbia, it was 41 and very windy between Condon and Cottonwood Canyon, but the views demanded attention and an exit from the warm car in places to get photos. One location offered a view of Jefferson, Hood, Adams, and Rainier.

I finally dropped into the canyon and came to the bridge across the John Day River. The road to the park circles underneath this bridge and before I went under it I came to a little side road that dropped down into a gravel lot that was obviously a trailhead. I was still pretty cold from getting out of the car up on the plateau and the prospect of a hike along the warmer canyon bottom seemed like a more appealing idea. Especially as I currently have a calf injury that I'm not really sure how bad it is and was solo. The sign said it was the Hard Stone Trail and that it only went up river for 1.5 miles and that while it was closed there, an extension was planned. I figured I could turn it into more if I wanted with a trip upslope or into a side canyon or another hike in the park later. The trail had a sign in sheet which I thought was odd for something so short and close to a state park. I could see nobody had been on it in two days and the lot was empty on a Saturday (perfect!).

The trail is really more of an old grown over dirt road which is not too surprising as the park was built out of an old ranch property. As I started out I realized that this looked like prime snake habitat and was a little surprised that a state park wouldn't have a warning sign as this is the kind of place somebody would let their 20 kids go running up the trail ahead of them. As I moved along their were some great overgrown very old stacked stone walls. The trail most of the time has a fairly clear single track or still looks like an old dirt road in drier areas, but there were some areas of tall lush grass that hadn't gotten enough traffic to create a clear track and struck me as sort of a hazard from the snake standpoint. It was still windy and pretty chilly and I figured the threat was pretty non-existant (foreshadowing here) and was looking more at the possibility ticks looking for a ride.

Initially I travelled through some areas that were pretty rife with cheatgrass and some other invaders, but as I went in further I encountered some nice bunchgrass and sage with lots of wildflowers.
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There were also a lot of butterfly species and opportunities for photos. Some of these were easier to catch with my camera than others.
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The trail as I said varies between a grown over road, and just grass, eventually I realized that I must have gotten to a point where the 1.5 miles was up and I was entering new territory. I was not clear if the park had opened the extension up, there were a couple points one with a new wood fence with a gap, another with a sign that said hunting was ok beyond this point and an old cattle gate that was lying on the ground twisted and off to the side. There were no "no trespassing" or closed signs, so I just kept going. It was more of the same but I think the wildflowers and general health of the land was better. The road eventually looked completely grown over, and I think perhaps I was the first to go in that far this year. I would guess it was maybe three miles in making for six total. There are some great towering cliffs on the other side and swallows and raptors flying around. By the time I began to head back out, the wind had died and it had warmed into what I am guessing was the low 70s. Very nice indeed. On my way back I encountered one of the few areas with a small clusters of decidous trees and this Lazuli Bunting checked me out.
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Here are a few shots of just the general area.
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After seeing the bunting I returned through some of the moist grass areas that I had been concerned about on the way in and had noticed the increase in temperature and had pondered if it was warm enough to get some snake activity. I had convinced myself it was not a big concern and as I was heading through one of these areas when a butterfly that was one of the most beautiful I had seen, and hadn't been able to get a shot of, floated over my shoulder and down the trail. I locked on waiting for it to land and had one of my cameras ready to get a shot when I heard the buzzing sound that I did not want to here.

I stopped realized it was next to me and looked down at a small rattlesnake coiled and poised to strike six inches from my right calf. I worked in mining exploration in southeast Oregon for a summer in college and have had some relatively close encounters, but my brain informed me that " sorry you are *#@ked this time, and moved into how far are we from help mode, while I simultaneously, made a million view worthy bugling/gargling sound and accidentally dropped my big heavy old film camera about two inches from it (not what the books recommend). It's rattle intensity kicked into the next gear, but for whatever reason it did not strike me or the camera, and my brain recognized a second chance and I jumped away and it went about a foot away in the brush. After I got the heart rate down and it still buzzing, I was thankful my strap had dropped in my direction and so was able to pull my camera toward me and retrieve it.

With it still buzzing I headed back down the trail. The lesson being that they truly do just want to be left alone because this guy had me "dead to rights" and I pissed him off even further with the camera. This of course made travel through the rest of the grass a rather paranoid experience, but I returned to the car with a really nice hike and a bit of a story, and no ticks. So pleasant hike, I recommend it, but keep your eye frequently on the trail :)

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Charley
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Re: Cottonwood Canyon S.P. - Hard Stone Trail 5/6/17

Post by Charley » May 7th, 2017, 4:25 pm

:lol: That would have been funny to see, but I'm sure it was scary at the time!
Believe it or not, I barely ever ride a mountain bike.

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sprengers4jc
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Re: Cottonwood Canyon S.P. - Hard Stone Trail 5/6/17

Post by sprengers4jc » May 7th, 2017, 9:58 pm

Great pictures! We camped at Cottonwood on Friday night but didn't get a chance to hit the Hard Stone Trail on Saturday before we headed toward Condon. Hard Stone is usually one of our favorites there, though that kind of rattlesnake event would have left me with soiled pants, I think. :shock:

Did you catch the Cliff Swallows nesting under Cottonwood Bridge? They were quite a sight. A couple of pics here.
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Cliff Swallows under Cottonwood Bridge
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Hard Stone Trail from Cottonwood Bridge
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daver
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Joined: March 3rd, 2012, 10:06 am

Re: Cottonwood Canyon S.P. - Hard Stone Trail 5/6/17

Post by daver » May 8th, 2017, 4:16 am

Charley wrote::lol: That would have been funny to see, but I'm sure it was scary at the time!
Yeah from a hiking solo standpoint, if I had been bitten, I would have regretted it because I was still about half hour from the car and nobody to send for help since running would not have helped my situation. Due to the involuntary sound and the mixed message my brain sent where I think my upper body tried to jump away while my brain told my legs to stand still, I think that was a plus in the solo hike column.

daver
Posts: 27
Joined: March 3rd, 2012, 10:06 am

Re: Cottonwood Canyon S.P. - Hard Stone Trail 5/6/17

Post by daver » May 8th, 2017, 4:22 am

sprengers4jc wrote:Great pictures! We camped at Cottonwood on Friday night but didn't get a chance to hit the Hard Stone Trail on Saturday before we headed toward Condon. Hard Stone is usually one of our favorites there, though that kind of rattlesnake event would have left me with soiled pants, I think. :shock:

Did you catch the Cliff Swallows nesting under Cottonwood Bridge? They were quite a sight. A couple of pics here.
Yeah soiled pants was the order of the day. Nice up canyon shot. The snake would have been beyond the flat grassy area and beyond the shoulder slope coming down. I missed the swallows, nice close up. There were some that just kind of followed me during portions of the hike. Kind of reminded me of dolphins following a ship. I work at a remote ag research station and the west overhang on our building has about 40 nests and when you walk over there they surround you and peep at you. They are beautiful to be sure.

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miah66
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Re: Cottonwood Canyon S.P. - Hard Stone Trail 5/6/17

Post by miah66 » May 8th, 2017, 12:14 pm

A friend of a friend was bitten by a rattlesnake while hiking offtrail at Deschute River NRA. He went to the hospital in The Dalles, they sent him home (to Portland) b/c they said it was a "dry bite". The next day his leg swelled up and turned black. Guess they were wrong! He's lucky.

That bunting was beautiful! I've still never seen one.
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daver
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Re: Cottonwood Canyon S.P. - Hard Stone Trail 5/6/17

Post by daver » May 13th, 2017, 5:35 am

miah66 wrote:A friend of a friend was bitten by a rattlesnake while hiking offtrail at Deschute River NRA. He went to the hospital in The Dalles, they sent him home (to Portland) b/c they said it was a "dry bite". The next day his leg swelled up and turned black. Guess they were wrong! He's lucky.

That bunting was beautiful! I've still never seen one.
Yeah, that sounds bad. Hope he recovered OK, I know that can lead to some long term nerve damage. Probably made a return to the hospital I'm guessing. I was certainly hoping for a dry bite :).

That is the third time I have seen a bunting. I have a little pond in my backyard and get birds that drop in during migration. Two years in a row I had buntings, and never again out of 18 years here. I was pretty excited to see the one there. He had a little harem following him around. I'm sure he's still there.

daver
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Re: Cottonwood Canyon S.P. - Hard Stone Trail 5/6/17

Post by daver » May 13th, 2017, 5:38 am

Just a followup. I wrote the State Parks and suggested a little trail maintenance and the posting of a sign. I assumed it would go into the administrative black hole, but I received an email yesterday, and they did some trail maintenance in the overgrown grassy section, and posted a rattlesnake warning sign at the trailhead. I was shocked they were so responsive. So thanks Oregon State Parks.

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