Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included)

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TinyHikes
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Joined: October 16th, 2016, 3:14 pm

Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included)

Post by TinyHikes » October 16th, 2016, 6:57 pm

Applogies for an antiquated post, but I actually did this hike on the 22nd of August. I have always wanted to do this hike and given that it has been a year since anyone has updated the Mark O. Hatfield Trail [MOHT], I thought it would be a good idea to let you all know how it went! This hike would make an amazing 4-5 day hike with a small group. I fast packed this trail by myself in two days given that many of my friends here in Portland do not share my enthusiasm for 30+ mile days. I would not suggest trying this on a whim unless you are an experienced long distance backpacker. That being said the track the map provides is the route that I undertook. The portion in red is the actual MOHT (avoiding the Indian Springs trail), and the water sources that I provided on the map were all running strongly in late August.
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MOHT Track.png
MOHT profile.png
The Profile of the black track on the map
I started at Angels Rest as opposed to Multnomah Falls trailhead because I have always been curious about the trail that connects the two, and I have to say that it is very much worth it. There are amazing views of the Columbia and cruiser miles once you get past Angels Rest, with very mild overgrowth. From The Devils rest trail you connect with Wahkeena trail for not much more than a mile, which brings you to the Larch Mountain trail, and no surprise, Larch Mountain (10.5 miles). Going up to Larch is a 5 mile climb at 2500' of gain. The trail is very well maintained and follows Multnomah Creek for the first half. From Larch follow the road until it bends and go through the break in the side railing. Continue down the trail and continue toward the east on Bell Creek Trail, which is an very mellow decline. Turn right at the Horseshoe Creek trail. The Creek has wonderful water and there is room for some tents about half a mile back. If you are wanting to Camp at Nesmith Point this is your water source! Follow the trail climbing up towards to the point with a huge drop off on your left during the easy climb, then follow the Forest service road up Nesmith Point (19.5 miles). Nice views on top, good spot for lunch. There is lots and lots of room for tents up here.
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Early morning Angels Rest
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Devils Rest Trail to Larch Mtn. Trail
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Nesmith Point lunch
Head back down the and take your first left after you pass Horseshoe Creek trail (where you came from) to Moffet Creek Trail. The trails from here to the Tanner Butte trail are not well maintained with many fallen trees, and plenty of overgrowth, but you really get the feeling that not many people hike on them. Continue on the trail, passing under power lines leading to a gnarly descent down to Tanner Creek. Continue on this trail for a mile and stop to get water (once again, not any up on Tanner Butte) before a brutal, albeit short, climb on the Tanner Cutoff. I'm talking 2000' in 1.5 miles steep. *APPARENTLY there is a history of being a bunch of hornets and bees in this area. I can confirm this and suggest that you DO NOT do this portion of the hike in late summer when they are most aggressive if you are allergic. I must have stepped on an underground lair of pain and destruction. ~35 stings/bites later I was at the top of the climb with a stream of profanity spilling out of what I imagine was every orifice. Not the best experience, but I still managed to have a pretty good time.*
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Not pictured: Impending swarm of rage and stinging profanity fire
Head south from the top of the Tanner cutoff trail through a nice easy trail mostly overgrown by grass up to the gorgeous Tanner Butte (30 miles). There are 2-3 spots to set up camp, but frankly I didn't do too much exploring as it was roughly 7 p.m. and I was in a massive amount of pain. It gets cold up here at night (elevation 4500'), and obviously lots and lots of condensation with its exposure. I did not bring a tent with me this trip, so I climbed back down at about 9 p.m. because I was getting soaked. Unfortunately I didn't have adequate pain control for that much venom and woke up at roughly 3 a.m., threw on my headlamp and just stated hiking. Which is why you don't see any pictures...
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Cute Butte Views
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Failed attempt to sleep
I took the proposed Alternate to check it out. There is an unused forest road here that is EXTREMELY overgrown and there is NO WATER. I trekked up to the Crest, but it wasn't any better, and frankly I am not fond of route finding in the dark. I continued down back on forest road and made my way towards to PCT where a scrambled up a hill to make my way to the trail. Although this ridge on the PCT is absolutely stunning looking northeast towards the Gorge, I cannot say I recommend taking this alternate. If you stay on the original MOHT (Annotated in RED) following the Eagle Tanner provides water quickly at Cedar Springs. Hiking up Indian Creek trail from Eagle Creek is manageable, but annoyingly steep as I remember from the PCT a few years back, and I would say not worth it, so I didn't put it on my map. *If you do go up Indian Creek trail during late July to early September you are essentially guaranteed to run into some PCT hikers, so give them all of your treats and 5 bucks for a beer in Cascade Locks because you are awesome.*
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Backside of the Butte
Next stop is Wahtum Lake (mile 42) and if you don't camp here you would be crazy not to (unless you want go hike 4 more miles). Follow the trail around the lake climbing up out of the lake basin to the Herman Creek Trail. Follow this down for a few miles until you arrive at the East fork of Herman Creek. This is another really awesome possible camp site, the water her is great and your last reliable source for 10 miles. Follow the trail for ~1 more mile and take a right up the Herman Creek Cutoff. I learned that "cutoff" equates to extremely steep and not well maintained, so there is some more of that. Head north on the Gorton Creek trail and follow up Green Point Mt. and and veer right on the way down to the N. Lake trail and then right again to Rainy Lake (mile 50). This is a pay camp site, but a nice enough place.
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Rainy Lake from Green Point
Follow the dirt road north towards Mount Defiance. The trailhead will be on your left and can be somewhat difficult to see so keep your eyes open. The trail up to Defiance is steep as all get up but the view of the desert to the east is really fantastic. The trail from defiance down to Warren lake is rad, loaded with boulders and other dynamic terrain. Warren lake is the last chance for water (mile 56). From Warren lake to the highway is stupid steep at about 3000' descent in 3 miles. The last mile feels like forever with multiple ups and downs and with a fairly constant view of the highway. Passing a few waterfalls towards the starvation ridge trail that runs parallel to the highway (that was being paved when I got there) and ultimately ending at the Starvation Creek trailhead.
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Dog Mountain is behind that tree
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A trail I don't want to go up
Even with the wasps, I loved this trail. I saw no more than 20 people the whole time but the people that I did see were of course wonderful. I did run into Flower and Papi, two incredible women who were attempting the PCT's SOBO FKT and got to chat with them for a brief moment about the joys of thru hiking. I really think you get all of the best of the gorge while you are out here. Very little to no trash on the trail. It is fantastic that the trail has been completed to this extent, and hope that one day the proposed trail is completed.

Please let me know if you need my GPX tracks, I am happy to provide them as well as a link to the Caltopo page. Thank you much for reading,
Happy Trails

-Tiny
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Cheers!

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RobinB
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Location: Portland, OR

Re: Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included

Post by RobinB » October 16th, 2016, 8:50 pm

This is really great - thanks for posting! I was going to go this spring, but other stuff kept getting in the way. I wonder how far into fall we have to get before wasps die...

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Peder
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Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:02 pm
Location: Lake Oswego

Re: Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included

Post by Peder » October 16th, 2016, 9:15 pm

"I learned that "cutoff" equates to extremely steep and not well maintained"


and seemingly also "beware of hornets" in the case of Tanner Butte. That sounds very painful! Congratulations on completing the hike after that unwarranted attack and on the impressive time of two days!
Some people are really fit at eighty; thankfully I still have many years to get into shape…

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retired jerry
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Re: Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included

Post by retired jerry » October 17th, 2016, 5:55 am

Yeah, great report and trip. I'm always looking for trips of 4-5 days - I should do that some time.

Doesn't your proposed alternate go onto the Bull Run watershed? Above Tanner ridge and over to Indian Springs? I've been eyeing that for years as a way to avoid that difficult crossing of Eagle Creek. And because I'm a rule breaker, not a rule follower.

Were there any signs saying you can't cross onto the watershed? It's a really minor incursion so it doesn't seem like it should bother anyone. But I don't really like to do things that really bother someone even if there's no law against it.

CMH
Posts: 28
Joined: June 18th, 2016, 1:13 pm

Re: Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included

Post by CMH » October 17th, 2016, 6:42 am

I hiked this trail in mid June 2016, so it's fun to read another account.
http://www.oregonhikers.org/forum/viewt ... =8&t=24053

I hiked in the opposite direction, and I didn't do the Angel's/Devil's portion. I never saw the hornets, but maybe that's because it was early season for them as you suggested. Could you comment more precisely on where on the cutoff trail you encountered them?

Do you know how to get our trip reports posted to the MOHT page on OregonHikers?
http://www.oregonhikers.org/field_guide ... Trail_Hike

I'm interested in your GPX tracks, and Caltopo page.

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retired jerry
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Re: Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included

Post by retired jerry » October 17th, 2016, 6:50 am

I added both trip reports to the field guide page

Sort of "buried" though

Is that good?

CMH
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Joined: June 18th, 2016, 1:13 pm

Re: Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included

Post by CMH » October 17th, 2016, 7:27 am

retired jerry wrote:I added both trip reports to the field guide page

Sort of "buried" though

Is that good?
Thanks very much Jerry!

TinyHikes
Posts: 3
Joined: October 16th, 2016, 3:14 pm

Re: Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included

Post by TinyHikes » October 17th, 2016, 10:42 am

Jerry,

I saw one sign that said I was in the Bull Run Watershed, but not until I was ~3 miles down FS road 2030. The majority of the FS road was maintained to some degree with a very visible, worn down walking path and many large downed trees. There are many signs along the major trails in the area that skirt the watershed implying no entrance. However considering the PCT runs directly through the Watershed, and a number of the trails in the area dip in and out of the watershed I don't consider my walking through it a concern, especially because I didn't eat, camp, or poop there. If I am not leaving any trace, I don't see how it is an issue to pass through. But as I pointed out earlier, I would much rather go on the current MOHT to avoid this area. It was dry, not fun hiking, nor scenic.

Thank you for linking these on the trail page.

I ran into the hornets ~ 1/2 - 3/4 of a mile into the Tanner Cutoff, headed east. The event occurred in the first few minutes of the climb, maybe on the 2nd or 3rd switchback. I didn't do anything to provoke them, the nest was apparently on trail, possibly underground.

TinyHikes
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Joined: October 16th, 2016, 3:14 pm

Re: Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included

Post by TinyHikes » October 17th, 2016, 10:49 am

Here is the attached GPX of the tracks with waypoints, and the Caltopo link.

https://caltopo.com/m/D7D3
MarkOHat.gpx
Here is the GPX
(187.06 KiB) Downloaded 206 times

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retired jerry
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Re: Mark O. Hatfield Trail 2016 (proposed alternate included

Post by retired jerry » October 17th, 2016, 11:17 am

Interesting, thanks. I thought there would have been more warnings.

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