Timing is often the crucial factor between a stellar backpack and one not so much and the winds were behind my sails on this mid Sept. outing.
Drove out to Eagle Cap Wilderness, up Lostine River Road, and stashed my backpack at Bowman TH. Continued up to Two Pan TH where I parked, then bicycled 3 miles back to Bowman where I retrieved my backpack and locked up my wheels.
About 2:30pm I broke trail up Bowman 1651. Tread was mellow, good, tho a bit dusty from horse traffic - yet not too bad after rains a few days prior. Plenty of day hikers descending on the way up who said there was just one party camped out at Chimney Lake. The way up was cool and pleasant in the afternoon shade. I branched right on Trail 1659 toward Chimney Lake. Instead I stopped and set up camp at Laverty Lakes, which lacks the impressive size of Chimney Lake, yet sits nicely between it's own granite hillside and a wide open view to the east, and was deserted.
A quick dip and I boiled up some water which ended up a bit murky and sudsy despite no suds on the shore. Hmm. Made dinner and strolled up to Chimney Lk. for a look, enjoying the long view up to Eagle Cap on the way back.
Next morning I felt okay. This time I collected water at Laverty's outlet - a trickle. This boiled up crystal clear so I'm not sure what the issue was the night before.
Leaving Laverty Lakes I backtracked to Bowman 1651, turned right, then up and over Wilson Pass, descending into the woods until I reached North Minam Meadows and the junction with Trail 1675/Copper Creek. On a sandy bank of the North Minam River I enjoyed lunch looking over a huge expanse of gorgeous fall grass.
After lunch, back to work on Trail 1675 to regain all my lost altitude as I ascended south. On the way a 66 year old solo woman backpacker advised me three different parties camped out the night before at Steamboat Lake, my destination. One was a bowhunter family with horses now set up in the Minam Meadows, another was a couple I had already waved to heading north, and herself.
The ascent was long yet there's plenty of fresh water spurting out of springs and creeks. Finally I reach a totally deserted Steamboat Lake. Happily I set up camp, took a dip, made dinner, then slipped into my sleeping bag to watch the light fade. Weather was clear and calm that night; quite cold - down to 25F or so.
Next morning I slept late, snuggled in my bag until the sun finally rose above the ridge line. In this little patch of paradise I decided to stay another night and day hike up the slopes on Steamboat's east side. I had fun navigating to one of the unnamed knobs, clearing out at about 8800ft or so with a terrific view (though my pics hardly do it justice). Immediately below was Catched Two Lake and the varied wonders of the Wallowas; colors and textures making a fine reward for all the effort of getting up there.
For variety I took a new route down, backtracking here and there to avoid undue exposure tho nothing serious. Back down at Steamboat Lake everything was still deserted, so I skinny dipped and made dinner.
Next morning I packed up and continued on 1675 for a terrific few miles of high country trekking. First the ascent to misnamed Swamp Lake.
Then up further past the Granite Trail to a fine 360 view.
A bit thirsty now I descended until numerous springs appeared and I lunched along a pleasant creek. I was mighty relaxed and a bit sleepy. I noticed a side path heading east and followed it, rounding a curve to suddenly come upon Sky Lake. Though small, Sky Lake is deep and blue and at barely past one I decided to set up camp on a ledge over the lake with a sweeping far off view.
Again, not a soul in sight. I rinsed off, explored a bit, and read my book. This evening was a good 15 degrees warmer than those prior. Early the next morning I was back on the trail. All was quiet until near Two Pan TH where I encountered some day hikers and bowhunters on horses heading in.
All in all a great backpack. Nights were cold and clear with a mostly full moon. About a thirty mile loop plus the day hike.
