The most current account I could find for this route was John Brandt’s 1975 write-up in A Hiker’s Guide to Oregon’s Hidden Wilderness (The Forest Service site for the French Creek Ridge Trail is vague in its description):
* “The biggest challenge offered by the Byars Peak approach to French Creek Ridge is finding the trailhead.”
* “Since this trail is seldom hiked, it has not been maintained for many years.”
* “Although the tread is easy to follow, one will encounter numerous fallen trees.”
True, true, and true.
Well, I knew there were two possible southern trailheads for the Willamette National Forest’s French Creek Ridge Trail. As I motored up winding FR 2225 from the French Creek Road and then peeled off on the narrow, overgrown 458 spur, I kept my eyes peeled for a possible trailhead. I found myself at the junction with the 461 spur and realized I had overshot – so I continued up 461 and, in fairly short order, found myself at a wilderness permit box with actual permits inside! Not only that, but this higher trailhead offered sweeping views to Dome Rock, Sardine Mountain, and down to Detroit Lake.
The French Creek Ridge Trail here heads up through a clearcut densely populated by rhododendrons and then enters old growth forest to become overgrown with rhododendrons, huckleberries and bear-grass. I kept hiking along a gentle grade and soon popped out at a series of clifftop viewpoints over the French Creek valley and to Marten Buttes on the French Creek Ridge.
Continuing along the ridge below Byars Peak, I encountered more and more downed trees, some very recent, and got out my pruning saw to get the branches out of the way so I could step over logs. The trail keeps to the west side of the ridge and eventually reaches the junction with the Beachie Trail. I headed east on the latter, plunging through thickets of huckleberry and white rhododendron, the foliage at times so dense I could barely see my boots on the trail. I passed two small tarns and then hit the ridge crest to begin the hike up Mt. Beachie’s gradual south ridge, getting sweeping views of the central Cascades, from Olallie Butte and Mt. Jefferson to the Sisters.
I peeled off the main trail to reach Mt. Beachie’s summit area, which affords a grand view to Battle Ax and Elk Lake as well as down to little Geibeler Lake nestled below.
This time, however, I decided I’d take on Mt. Beachie’s more interesting east ridge, which is about 100 feet lower than the true summit. This involved a steep scramble down to a clifftop traverse, sometimes dropping below obstacles, to scramble very steeply up to a rugged set of formations that offered impressive and unimpeded views to Battle Ax, Elk Lake, and Mt. Jefferson. The central Cascade peaks were in view to the south; those to north were obscured by clouds. Two rugged battlements, one of which has its own natural arch, formed a spectacular foreground. I had lunch at the top of a 250-foot cliff and watched vultures soaring below me at the head of Battle Ax Creek.
Two Oregon Cascade endemics find habitat in this forbidding rock garden, the Cascade daisy (Erigeron cascadensis), seemingly always sprouting out of pure stone and rarely photographed, and Gorman’s aster (Eucephalus gormanii).
Then it was the return trip, somewhat swifter because I had pruned away obstructing branches although there were still many downed trees. On the drive back, I again attempted to locate the lower trailhead and found success! There is no sign on the road, but up the path is one of those new “stimulus” signs that suggests they haven’t forgotten about this trail after all. You have to park above a very steep talus slope here, and I think driving up I had been more intent on avoiding a fatal plunge into the abyss than watching for a trail. I hiked up the trail a little way – this trailhead is only about half a mile below the one I began at – and it soon enters lovely mountain hemlock/rhododendron forest on a good tread.
Some details:
* The French Creek Ridge Trail continues west to the Phantom Natural Arch where it morphs into the similarly overgrown Elkhorn Ridge Trail. Beachie Trail drops to Beachie Saddle below Battle Ax.
* Road conditions: FR 2225 turns off paved 2223 (French Creek Road). The road is winding, narrow but very good gravel.
The 458 spur takes you higher and tunnels through thickets of encroaching Sitka alder, willow, and snow brush: you can’t care about your car’s paint job if you choose this hike. There’s a bit of a washout in one place and you need to keep your eyes on the track so you don’t drive off precipices. The 458, however, should be good for passenger cars.
The 461 spur to the higher trailhead has one bad washed out section with large, loose rocks in the road and really requires good clearance.
* Trail conditions: Quite a lot of windfall. I have not done as much itinerant trail maintenance in a long time. Basically, I tossed dozens of large branches off the trail and sawed off dozens of others so you can make easier passage over large trees. Someone has done some lopping of rhododendrons on the lower section of trail. Still, you have to work your way around some trees and crawl under a couple. There is brush overhanging the trail in numerous places: not a good hike when the foliage is wet. The trail tread, however, is obvious the length of the route.
* Creatures: Mosquitoes will hound you, especially before and after the French Creek Ridge-Beachie Trail junction. While hiking, it was not such an issue, but I had to stop and saw branches and then I got mobbed!
Lots of scat on the trail (bear, bobcat, coyote) – even what seemed to be cougar scat on the east ridge (This is a marked contrast to the lack of sign on my last hike, Thunder Mt.-Skookum Lake, also remote, but that’s sasquatch territory and the Bigfoot tend to scare away the critters).
There were no other humans on the trails or the roads.
* Sights: Massive views from different parts of the hike. Some big old growth. The high ridge wildflowers, including the rhodies and bear-grass, are in full bloom. The east ridge is a great scramble, but not for everyone – very steep in places and you are always close to the cliffs on the north side.
Mt. Beachie's East Ridge via Byars Peak 07-07-16
Re: Mt. Beachie's East Ridge via Byars Peak 07-07-16
Hey bobcat, thx for posting this fine report. I've always looked longingly at the older maps showing the trail to Byars Peak originating near Detroit and wondered what remains. You think there is trail going south from the lower trail head?
--Paul
--Paul
The future's uncertain and the end is always near.
Re: Mt. Beachie's East Ridge via Byars Peak 07-07-16
@pablo: I didn't look, but I'm sure there was something there at some time in the past. Where do your maps show a trail continuing? Almost straight across from that trailhead is a murderously steep talus slope. It would make sense if the trail went down the ridge to the west - but then you'd have to figure out a way to cross the Breitenbush River.
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Re: Mt. Beachie's East Ridge via Byars Peak 07-07-16
This is awesome! I never got up this way when writing 101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region and I've always wondered about these trails. Thanks for unraveling the mystery! I will have to check these out before it comes time to update the book. If you feel like taking me up here some day, all the better!
Author of Extraordinary Oregon!, PDX Hiking 365, 101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region, and Off the Beaten Trail. Website: www.offthebeatentrailpdx.com
Re: Mt. Beachie's East Ridge via Byars Peak 07-07-16
Good stuff Bobcat. I've long been meaning to hike that trail. But I do value my pickup's paint job....so maybe if you ever take Matt up there, I'm game.
"Going to the mountains is going home."
— John Muir
— John Muir
Re: Mt. Beachie's East Ridge via Byars Peak 07-07-16
The 1959 map has the entire thing but after that the lower part disappears. It would have followed the ridge until it steepened then a big switchback to take it down to a crossing of French Creek.bobcat wrote:@pablo: I didn't look, but I'm sure there was something there at some time in the past. Where do your maps show a trail continuing? Almost straight across from that trailhead is a murderously steep talus slope. It would make sense if the trail went down the ridge to the west - but then you'd have to figure out a way to cross the Breitenbush River.
In TOPO! if you zoom out one level to get the older maps you can see the trail in relation to the roads. The 455 Rd looks to have followed the trail for a while in a switchback and could provide access to the trail before the ridge steepens going south. The bottom part has been logged but there is a gated road on the east side of the creek that leads to where the trail may have been located.
I like the long ridge and I hope to get out there and poke around one of these days. Thx for the beta.
--Paul
The future's uncertain and the end is always near.