the devil made me do it

[Chip Down]

Misc adventures in the general vicinity of Devils Rest, western Columbia gorge, Oregon side, west of Multnomah, Feb 10.

Alarm went off at 5:00, and my groggy brain couldn't figure out what I needed to get up so early for. Oh yeah, a hike. Yay!

Reached Angels Rest trailhead at the crack of dawn and hit the trail at 7:00. I haven't seen this trail in 15 years, so I dawdled and reminisced and enjoyed the views. Somebody here reported that he took photos of downtown Portland from Angels Rest, and I was surprised, but sure enough, with my monocular I could make out the Wells Fargo tower.

I didn't bother going all the way out onto Angels Rest. I've been there countless times, most recently from above (not from the Angels Rest TH). It reminded me of the times I completed a new climbing route on Hood and didn't bother to finish up the last little bit after routes converge below the summit. Once you've been to the summit of Hood a few hundred times (possible exaggeration) the novelty kinda wears off. Same with Angels Rest.

I continued into the Foxglove labyrinth and walked the roads/trails until I had it all figured out, and also went part-way down a few abandoned roads/trails that didn't seem to be going anywhere interesting. I made a couple funny errors that gave it a bermuda-triangle effect, and it could have been scary if I was one those tourists who set off an hour before sunset in flip-flops and no flashlight. Ultimately, I found myself on what I assumed was the road that goes around behind the south side of Devils Rest. Sure enough, shortly I came to that cutoff that connects to trail 420C, which I then followed to Devils Rest. By the way, I really don't think the reality of this area matches guides/maps. I guess I could take my GPS and map it out, and overlay my route on the various maps/guides to see how much variation there is.

From Devils Rest, I took the trail to Angels/Foxglove, which I don't think I've walked before, and then back up. I also followed the old road that passes just slightly below the top of Devils, until it became so overgrown that I couldn't stand it, so turned back and returned to Devils again. So yeah, arrived at Devils Rest for the second time.

At Devils Rest again, I sought and found the gnome grotto, and also spotted an enigmatic little sign on a tree. Could this be the top of Primrose? I had to find out. It was an ugly trail, hard to follow in spots. It was a struggle, but I followed it to an obvious roadbed (perhaps the same road I gave up on earlier, the one that meets the trail just below the top of DR). At the road, there was a modern unofficial sign confirming I was on Primrose. The road was easy to follow down for a while, but it faded more and more. By the time it dumped onto the Angels/Wahkeena trail, it was faint. In fact, it could be hard to find Primrose from that official trail if you don't know where to look. But that's okay, because nobody in their right mind would want to hike this horrible trail. Even so, I was pleased to have spotted it, and it was fun as a one-time adventure. But here's my advice: Primrose is only for people seeking adventure/challenge. Coming down from Devils Rest, it was easy to say "hey, it's no big deal, just head north until you hit the Angels/Wahkeena trail". But there are a couple complications here: the brush is dense, and there's always the possibility of cliffing out when you're off-trail in the gorge. If you loose Primrose, best to go back the way you came, until you've regained trail, and then take another shot at it. The good thing is, the trail always becomes more clear after the faint sections, so if you get stumped, keep looking...but always make sure you can get back where you started if need be.

Finally back on an official trail, I headed to Wahkeena. I stopped and explored around the spring because I've noticed maps show the creek starts way above the trail. Obviously there's a spring here, five feet from the trail, but I wondered if the creek really does start up high, and maybe goes underground for a while, emerging again at the spring. Earlier, up high on the Devils Rest trail, I peered down and saw a couple candidate creeks. Unfortunately, I didn't get very far above the spring, due to heavy brush. It wasn't awful, but I knew the opportunity for interesting payback was scant, so I didn't persist. Anyway, maps show the creek to be continuous as it crosses the trail, so really the 1/8 acre I explored (wedge shape radiating up from the spring) was enough to definitively conclude the maps aren't even remotely close to reality.

My next goal was the abandoned trail that follows Wahkeena creek downstream to the top of the falls. Although the sign is missing, leaving an empty slot on the tree where it resided, the trail was easier to find than I expected, due in part to some apparently-fresh gravel on the trail. Puzzling. It's a lovely trail, constructed at great expense, a wonderful asset to the gorge. I can't imagine why it isn't maintained. I was so excited to see necktie falls, because I've seen pics, but didn't know where the pics were taken from, didn't even know it was on this creek. By the way, our field guide says this trail features steps carved into the slope, and this is true, but there are also some poured concrete stairs, ala Perdition.

Back on the main trail, I decided to go down to Lemmon's Viewpoint, since it was only a few yards down the trail. Along the way, I spotted a marker for "monument view point trail". I've passed it countless times, years ago when Wahkeena was one of my preferred training hikes, but I don't think I've ever hiked that monument trail. It was overgrown, washed out, covered with blowdown. But it's a short trail, and the viewpoint is worthwhile. Like the Wahkeena Falls viewpoint trail, I just can't imagine why this trail isn't maintained, especially if it's a monument (to what, I don't know). In this area, we have a trio of lovely unmaintained trails: the two mentioned above, and Perdition. "Move along folks, nothing to see here."

From Lemmon's Viewpoint, I was going to return to Angels Rest in hopes of seeing Portland lights after sunset, but the sprinkles that started just below Wahkeena Spring were picking up into a steady mist. This wasn't expected. The forecast for Bonneville was partly cloudy, no chance of precip. I decided a fast return to the car was in order, so I dropped down that horrible paved switchbacked Wahkeena Trail to the old highway. I thought about taking the railroad tracks back to Bridal Veil and Angels Rest TH, but I'm glad I walked the old highway. Just west of Wahkeena, I spotted the concrete gutter drain marked Multnomah Lodge 1916. What?! I knew nothing of this. Intrigued, I poked around a bit and found an old fireplace and chimney covered in moss/ferns. I followed a very steep rugged "trail" up to the bottom of the falls. If there was any exposure, this would be a terrifying trail. But there wasn't, so it wasn't. On the way down, I realized that what appeared to be the top of the falls when viewed from the trail top end was actually just the top of the bottom tier. Wow, that was an awkward sentence. Point is, it's a two-tier fall, and you have to get back a ways to see it all. The geology here is cool, and would be worth visiting even without water. To my to-do list, I added "hike cross country to the top of Mist Falls". Oh, I just looked it up on our field guide, and one of the pictures is captioned "this is what passes for a trail". Ha. So true. Like so many of the crap "trails" out there. Also saw a pic with the falls right behind the old chimney/fireplace, as if the water is pouring right into the chimney. I got a similar pic myself. I suspect that's a winter view only. There are trees in the way, so don't expect to get a great view in the leafy seasons. And speaking of that, this is where I saw some buds opening up. In Portland, we're starting to see some flowers, and in the gorge there are signs of spring.

Next interesting feature, west of Mist Falls, was a long grotto that I followed for quite a distance before dropping back to the old highway, which was boring from the grotto to Bridal Veil. It's only a couple miles, but seemed like it would never end.

I didn't get to my car until 6:00, just as twilight was fading into darkness. I was slightly damp but not soaked. Turns out I could have returned via trail instead of highway, but as wiped out as I was, I was glad I took the shortcut back. I was surprised to see a couple cars at the trailhead; I'm usually the last one to call it a day. As I cleaned up and changed clothes, I saw lights coming down the Angels Rest trail, the last of the day's stragglers. If that was you, give us a shout out below.

Miles hiked: Hell if I know
Elevation gain: Hell if I know.

[Bosterson]

Along the way, I spotted a marker for "monument view point trail". I've passed it countless times, years ago when Wahkeena was one of my preferred training hikes, but I don't think I've ever hiked that monument trail. It was overgrown, washed out, covered with blowdown. But it's a short trail, and the viewpoint is worthwhile. Like the Wahkeena Falls viewpoint trail, I just can't imagine why this trail isn't maintained, especially if it's a monument (to what, I don't know).

EP took me to Monument Viewpoint a few years ago, which I literally had no idea existed, despite the fact that the viewpoint hangs directly over the paved switchbacks of Wahkeena. (I'm not that familiar with the nefarious Multnomah-Wahkeena trail map at the Falls Lodge, but I think the Monument spur trail is listed, no?) My recollection of the Monument trail is that you wouldn't notice it unless you were looking for it - just like the little trail down to Necktie Falls, which I also visited for the first time that day. The Necktie trail has the same 1940s (ish?) Army Corps of Engineers pipe railing structure you find at upper McCord, but I would love if anyone has more info about when those two little trails faded from the collective consciousness. (I don't believe they're "closed," just forgotten?)

Monument is fun, and a really nice little viewpoint to walk out on to the very edge. Probably best that the large blowdown blocking the trail as you climb up from Lemmon's is there to keep the flip floppers at bay.

[Peder]

End of Memorial Viewpoint trail. Landing at lower left is very easy to get to, but exposure is scary.

And here is a fool who needs to go out and locate this spot! Thank you for sharing.

[Webfoot]

Where is this?

[BurnsideBob]

One of the best Trip Report titles EVER!!

Thanks for sharing your adventure.

[Chip Down]

Bob: Thanks! As you probably realized, I was trying to think of something in the theme of Perdition, Devils Rest, Primrose Path, etc.

Webfoot: Just west of Mist Falls and the site of the old lodge. It's close to the old highway, so it's an easy side trip when you're in the gorge. Easy to find.

[Guy]

Along the way, I spotted a marker for "monument view point trail". I've passed it countless times, years ago when Wahkeena was one of my preferred training hikes, but I don't think I've ever hiked that monument trail. It was overgrown, washed out, covered with blowdown. But it's a short trail, and the viewpoint is worthwhile. Like the Wahkeena Falls viewpoint trail, I just can't imagine why this trail isn't maintained, especially if it's a monument (to what, I don't know).

EP took me to Monument Viewpoint a few years ago, which I literally had no idea existed, despite the fact that the viewpoint hangs directly over the paved switchbacks of Wahkeena. (I'm not that familiar with the nefarious Multnomah-Wahkeena trail map at the Falls Lodge, but I think the Monument spur trail is listed, no?) My recollection of the Monument trail is that you wouldn't notice it unless you were looking for it - just like the little trail down to Necktie Falls, which I also visited for the first time that day. The Necktie trail has the same 1940s (ish?) Army Corps of Engineers pipe railing structure you find at upper McCord, but I would love if anyone has more info about when those two little trails faded from the collective consciousness. (I don't believe they're "closed," just forgotten?)

Monument is fun, and a really nice little viewpoint to walk out on to the very edge. Probably best that the large blowdown blocking the trail as you climb up from Lemmon's is there to keep the flip floppers at bay.

I believe that Necktie was just forgotten though now the trail to it is very easy to spot off the main trail. Monument is officially closed I believe but still on that FS map. There is one point where there is a lot of loose rock & a big tree to negotiate. The danger isn't to you the hiker but folks coming up the Wahkeena trail. If you dislodge any of these baseball sized rocks here they are headed straight down onto the main trail below.

I seem to remember Craig reporting on a "Monument direct" route too.

[Don Nelsen]

Here is some background information about Devil's Rest and the Primrose Path from a 1987 Oregonian story: When I read this, I promptly went out to find and hike the trail.





Don

[beag]

Good story Don. You have a enough knowledge to write a great book about the Gorge. Hope I'm around to read it.

[Webfoot]

Webfoot: Just west of Mist Falls and the site of the old lodge. It's close to the old highway, so it's an easy side trip when you're in the gorge. Easy to find.

Thanks. This is apparently a climbing area known as "the rat cave" which I hadn't heard of before.