With the Loved One out of backpacking action due to spinal problems, I feared that I'd never get a chance to show her the Sierra backcountry. I'd carried our joint load on our backpack down the Rogue River trail (Rogue TR) but didn't think I could do so up and down at altitude in the Sierras. This is where the high camp system in the Tuolumne Meadows area of Yosemite Nat'l Park came to our rescue (YHSC). It has been in operation for 99 years (it'll celebrate it's 100th anniversary along with that of the NPS itself in 2016) and is one of the classic hiking loops in the Sierras. By availing ourselves of their tent & food services, I was able to make my backpacking load manageable and thus show the Loved One the Sierras (which made this spendy option more than worth it to me). We'd done part of this loop before (Yosemite TR) but this year we got lucky in the lottery, and were able to get the whole loop (5 camps) for ourselves and two very long-time friends. We also got lucky with the weather - not too hot or cold - and with the smoke from the 100,000 acre Rough fire in Sequoia Nat'l Park - the winds shifted and we only had noticable smoke our first and last mornings on the trail. No bugs either ( ).
DAY 1: Tuolumne Meadows to Glen Aulin (7.3 mi, 700' loss)
We got a reasonably early start and swung around Tuolumne Meadows on the PCT heading N, with Cathedral Peak prominent in the distance on the right (climbed its SE ridge - left skyline - years ago).
After a visit to the Sierra Club's Parson's Memorial Lodge,
we continued N along the seriously diminished Tuolumne River,
past Tuolumne Falls,
over lots of granite,
to our first camp at Glen Aulin,
right next to the White Cascade of the Tuolumne.
DAY 2: Glen Aulin to May Lake (8.2 mi, 1400' gain)
After two excellent meals and a good nights sleep, we turned off the PCT and headed SW,
past McGee Lake.
A lot of this trail is in the trees but it does eventually break out onto the granite for a big view of northern Yosemite.
We then passed Raisin Lake,
and soon arrived at our second camp,
on the shores of May Lake.
DAY 3: May Lake to Sunrise (8.7 mi, 1900' gain)
Two meals and a sleep later, we were up to catch the sunrise on May Lake.
To get to Sunrise, we first had to descend 1200' on part of the old Sierra Highway (replaced in 1961 by Hwy 120),
past Tenaya Lake,
and then regain that 1200' plus 600' more,
past the Sunrise Lakes,
to reach our 3rd camp,
with its expansive view of Long Meadow.
DAY 4: Sunrise to Merced Lake (9.8 mi, 500' gain)
This was supposed to be our easiest day in that it is technically "all down hill" (not exactly true but we let ourselves think that ). So we got off to a good start across Long Meadow,
with Columbia Finger in the distance.
After a short climb, we started a long descent down the Cathedral Creek drainage, through seemingly endless granite cliffs and exfoliations.
Two things caught our attention in this stretch - a coyote chasing a young deer (the Loved One thought the deer got away; I said think of the really, really cute coyote pups that will be having vension for dinner...) - and a small grove of very old, very large, and very convoluted junipers.
The trail then leveled out a bit through a meadow,
before starting its final descent into the valley of the Merced River.
Once on the valley floor, we still had some climbing to do,
to finally reach Merced Lake,
and the camp where we'd spend the next two nights (you're a little more likely to get the loop if you agree to two nights at Merced, which is no hardship at all).
DAY 5: Sloth, idleness, and dissipation at Merced Lake
DAY 6: Merced Lake to Vogelsang (7.8 mi, 2800' gain)
Going up to Vogelsang is the single biggest climb on the loop and one that a lot of people worry about. But it's well graded and overall a lot easier than the steep climb from Tenaya Lake to Sunrise. As we climbed out of the valley of the Merced, there was one spot where we could see both Merced Lake and Half Dome.
There are two options for the Merced to Vogelsang section and we chose to ascend Fletcher Ck because that way is more open with bigger views. The trail climbs steadily to a point (arrow),
where we could look back S toward the Clark Range.
Past this point, the trail levels off a lot, enters a long valley,
and climbs rather gently through meadows and up a slope,
to our last camp. We had arranged our schedule to arrive at Vogelsang on its last day of operation for the 2015 season, so as to partake of the traditional "Last Supper" of turkey and fixings. Yumm!
DAY 7: Vogelsang to Tuolumne Meadows (7.2 mi, 1400' loss)
After the Last Supper came the cold and clear Last Morning,
and then the Last Breakfast (which seemed redundant given all the turkey we'd consumed the night before). But despite some bloating, we bravely laced on our boots one last time, said goodbye to Vogelsang,
and started down to Tuolumne Meadows.
After another crossing of the Tuolumne,
we reached the TH just W of Tuolumne Lodge (49 mi loop, 6600' EG). An excellent, amazing trip with amazing and excellent friends! Probably a once in a lifetime one but worth every footstep (and dollar) expended!
Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
Last edited by VanMarmot on August 8th, 2017, 9:43 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
Thank you so much for this report! I was not aware of the High Sierra Camps option. My husband and I went to Yosemite for the first time earlier this year and I am fascinated by the area. We will be going back in November. The High Sierra Camps sound like that might be an option for a great trip in the future, without having to lug heavy backpacks.
Stephanie
Vancouver, WA
Vancouver, WA
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Re: Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
Looks like an excellent trip. Yosemite is one of a kind.
Re: Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
Neato, Bruce. I wanted to do the High Camps loop back in high school, but couldn't convince the rest of the wilderness club to go trudge around in the snow in April.
I can't remember the details of the camps - are they staffed with college kids on break to cook the food, like the Appalachian Mountain Club does in the Whites in New Hampshire?
(From the JMT on 9/12/12.)
I can't remember the details of the camps - are they staffed with college kids on break to cook the food, like the Appalachian Mountain Club does in the Whites in New Hampshire?
The Lyell Fork! I recognized it immediately.VanMarmot wrote: another crossing of the Tuolumne
(From the JMT on 9/12/12.)
#pnw #bestlife #bitingflies #favoriteyellowcap #neverdispleased
Re: Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
There may be some moonlighting college students among the staff, but many of them seem to go from seasonal job to seasonal job, with time off in between for travel, etc. Not an uncommon lifestyle in the guiding, rafting, outdoor community. The cook at Vogelsang, for example, cooks for that camp in the summer and then works as a bartender during the winter. One of the waiters at Furnace Creek (Death Valley) has worked there in the winter and at Yellowstone in the summer for 25+ years. So it's a unique lifestyle choice.Bosterson wrote:
I can't remember the details of the camps - are they staffed with college kids on break to cook the food, like the Appalachian Mountain Club does in the Whites in New Hampshire?
- roadtripmom
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Re: Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
What an incredible trip ! I so love that area and your photos bring back some wonderful memories.
Filling my bucket, one hike at a time.
Amanda
Amanda
- lalahikesnw
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Re: Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
Phenomenal! Beautiful pictures, I don't think it's possible not to fall in love with the Sierra's.
Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for sharing!
Re: Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
Stunning photos! I showed your report to my wife and she said, "I could do that!" So maybe sometime in the next few years . . .
Re: Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
Thanks everyone! Some might see this as "glamour camping" (glamping) but I wouldn't agree. You still have to walk between the camps and, even with light loads, it is still some work. More than enough to have earned your meal and cot (neither of which you had to carry ) at the end of each day. We saw kids as young as 8 and folks even older than I am (is that possible??) doing the loop, so I think the camp option opens up the Sierra backcountry to a wider audience. You just have to hope the lottery coughs up an itinerary you can accept (it's best to be flexible and ask for 2 nights at Merced Lake).
- the hiking nurse
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Re: Yosemite High Sierra Loop 1/7-Sep-2015
RoadTripMom and I did a good portion of that same loop a couple years ago...it is such an amazing place. I had a big goofy grin on my face while reading your TR. Thanks so much for sharing.