Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

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miah66
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Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

Post by miah66 » May 28th, 2015, 2:17 pm

I spent the Memorial Day weekend w/ the loved one doing a backpack in the Bull of the Woods Wilderness, specifically the Twin Lakes area. It was a great time, few bugs, not too many people and some great scenery.

Opening Pic:

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Our route was something like this:



We toyed with the idea of approaching from Elk Lake Creek, but opted for the shorter hike and the more "exciting" drive to begin at Elk Lake. We drove down I-5 towards Salem, headed out Hwy 22 towards Detroit Lake, and took the FS46 Rd up towards Elk Lake.

The reservoir was lower than I've ever seen it, with exposed tree stumps and boat docks sitting on dry ground almost 30' above the surface of the Breitenbush river, flowing like a ribbon, not a still lake.

Pic from Monday @ Upper Arm Day Use area:
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Usually a beach w/ water access:
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That white pole has lines to measure the height of the water in the swimming area. I'm not sure, but I don't think this is "normal"? :?

As we left the Hwy, we started seeing lots of Memorial Day "campers" and all their various accessories set up, sometimes only a few dozen feet from the roadside! :roll: Plenty of gravel pit litterbugs too, targets exploded all around, staring cautiously as we drove by.

The road to Elk Lake is notoriously bad, but not more so than many roads to TH's I've been on. I'm happy to have a high clearance SUV for trips like this. I saw several muddy cars up there, however.

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A few fisherman were getting ready to get on the water at Elk Lake when I arrived and snapped a few pics of the water.

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We parked the vehicle in a roadside pullout and walked about 1/4 mile to the Elk Lake Creek Trail #559 at the NE end of the lake.

Starting out:

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This early section was a nice, mostly level forest walk in the mist past some huge old growth trees and newly bloomed rhododendrons.

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Eventually leading down to the junction w/ the Motherlode Trail near the site of the Battle Creek Shelter.

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There are some nice camps here and so we decided to set up and explore further down Elk Lake Creek trail a bit. It involved an immediate creek crossing:

Clear (& Cold) water of Battle Creek

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Once across the creek, we ambled along through dense and very green forest with occasional views of the lovely Elk Lake Creek.

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I took too many pictures of the creek, but it's seriously beautiful:

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Not a ton of flowers, but Greg thinks it's a rusty saxifrage. Good enough for me. :D

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And some megaflora too:

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Further along there was another creek crossing, so we decided to head back to camp and only deal w/ ONE more crossing on the way back, instead of 3.

Getting our feet wet again:

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The next morning we headed out the Motherlode Trail #558 to climb to our destination for Sunday night's camp @ Twin Lakes. I knew it would be busy, but hoped an early start would allow us to secure a camp near the water. It turned out it was a good thing we got an early start.

From our camp, after an immediate crossing of Battle Creek, the the trail enters a burned area and soon junctions with the trail to Welcome Lakes #557. Edit: The Geronimo Trail #557. The Motherlode trail just disappears and drops off a steep ravine to Motherlode Creek. The map and my gps showed us on the proper trail alignment, but there was definitely no trail, not even a blaze, or any flagging visible anywhere at all. I resigned myself to the fact that we would have to climb over a decimated forest of blowdown and rhododendron bushes as we bushwhacked down and then up a steep slope until we came across some semblance of a trail, hopefully. :cry:

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After some not-so-under my breath cursing and my wife's thinning patience, we continued to soldier on and we made it up higher on the ridge. It took us around an hour or more to go only about 1/2 mile. We sat on the steep slope and had a snack and tried to figure out what to do next. Only thing to do is keep on keeping on. We donned our packs, and in only a few steps we were standing on a perfectly visible and maintained trail! WTF!?!

I was relieved, but disappointed at not having seen the junction to this trail on the other end, as I'm usually a navigation hawk. So, I followed it back down to the crossing of Motherlode Creek. I'm still not sure, but at some point BEFORE the Welcome Lakes #557. Edit: The Geronimo Trail #557 jct, it must drop down the hill to cross the creek. There is a nice, though small, camp on the creek there.

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After regaining the trail, things started to look a little better, for many reasons.

Oregon Anenome:

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We gained the ridge and some views opened up. Here is Pansy Mtn (L) and Bull of the Woods LO up there somewhere (R)

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Finally after climbing up what seemed like an eternity with tired legs from the bushwhack, we reached a junction with Twin Lakes trail #573 and began being bitten relentlessly by mosquitoes as we took a break.

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What is going on? Oohhhh this breeding ground was around the corner

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Next, we traversed below the ridge of Motherlode Mtn, through a long stretch of burned forest. Life it coming back here, especially noticeable since it's starting to bloom this time of year.

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I kept examinging all the stalks of beargrass for that albino spider that KepNW saw in one of his photos, but never saw one. Those suckers are pretty nicely camoflauged, however. Lots of other bugs on them though.

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We finally arrived at Upper Twin Lakes, and there were only a few groups already there so we had no trouble securing an out of the way spot. However, only a few weeks ago I was here and didn't see a single human after leaving Bagby HS. This trip we passed several groups everyday, though it didn't feel too crowded thankfully.

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Chillin':

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We had a windy evening at camp. For some reason near our camp on the East-ish side of the lake was like a wind tunnel between 4-8pm, and I had all my layers on. Then after the sun went down it got eerily still and we enjoyed the smooth surface of the water, the rising moon and our nice fire.

The next day, Monday, we broke camp a little later than we had planned, but we only had about 6 miles to hike so there was no rush. The weather was noticeably clearer every day of our trip and this was definitely the nicest day.

We said goodbye to Twin Lake and climbed out of the basin, turned left on the Bagby Trail #544, where we enjoyed semi-clear views of Olallie Butte (L) and the bottom of Mt. Jefferson (invisible in photo)

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There were many good views of the lesser traveled areas to the West, Battle Ax Creek drainage that together with the lovely Opal Creek, flow into the Little North Santiam River. I've never been down there, but I dream about it alot, especially when I read cool reports like Bobcat's exploration of the mines down there.

The views South weren't so bad either:

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The weather was clearing and we were feeling pretty good, so we decided to try climbing Battle Ax Mtn as a more exciting alternate than returning on the Bagby Trail.

Photos of the journey go from that junction:

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Elk Lake:

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Mt Beachie:

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Some crazy Moai-looking rock formations on the journey down the many switchbacks to Beachie Saddle:

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Jefferson never quite came all the way out, but it was still awesome:

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In case you're like me and always wondered what Beachie Saddle looks like:

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Then it was a short jaunt down the very rough trail (that used to be a road) back to the Elk Lake Campground area.

End of the Bagby Trail #544:

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Thanks for reading!
Last edited by miah66 on May 29th, 2015, 7:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Chazz
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Re: Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

Post by Chazz » May 28th, 2015, 2:27 pm

Great trip report and photos. I'm really going to have to make it a priority to get over there soon.

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bobcat
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Re: Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

Post by bobcat » May 28th, 2015, 2:59 pm

Great loop and you took in all the highlights. The pictures from Battle Ax remind me I have to go back there often.

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Koda
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Re: Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

Post by Koda » May 28th, 2015, 3:35 pm

I love the photos you shared, they have a dreamy peaceful effect that draws me in and makes me want to visit this place. Your “on trail” bushwhack reminds me of my only trip here many years ago where we did a similar loop coming down trail 557 to the shelter junction…. Which, back then that trail mostly disappeared on us. At the time I had no off trail experience but we made it because that was also the last leg of our loop (we were going opposite direction you were, clockwise…).
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Hagbard Celine
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Re: Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

Post by Hagbard Celine » May 28th, 2015, 3:37 pm

Thanks for the great report, I have been thinking of a backpack to Twin Lakes as well but the easier version from Frog Lake in the Mt Hood Wilderness as I don't think I have the chops yet to do the one you guys did. However, how many miles and EG would you say it was to the first camp you guys set up? And how far from that camp was the second crossing you decided not to ford? The area looks awesome and I would like to do some of it at least.

We ended up going to Siouxon Creek for Sunday-Monday on that weekend because I had only ever seen 1 or 2 backpackers in that area in the several times I have been there...bad choice as it was so busy we ended up having to pitch on the trail at the Chinook bridge intersection. Interesting that you mentioned KepNW as I ran into him that day but he seemed deep in conversation with a hiking companion and I didn't want to interrupt so no formal introduction. Love that circular shot!
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-Q-
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Re: Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

Post by -Q- » May 28th, 2015, 4:03 pm

Regarding the road in to Elk Lake... how much overhanging brush is there??
Doesn't look like much in the picture you included.

I am not at all concerned about a rough road, but overhanging brush is my nemesis.

Thanks!!

greenjello85
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Re: Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

Post by greenjello85 » May 28th, 2015, 5:53 pm

Great hike man! I did this loop minus battle axe as a day hike last fall. I also lost the trail after Battle creek crossing. I located what i thought was the trail again and followed it. Eventually it started heading up the wrong ridge so I dove down to motherlode creek and jumped to the other side. I headed straight up the ridge and finally hit the newish looking tread about 150 yards uphill from where it was on my GPS map.

Whatever I was on was definitely a trail at one time. The tread was pretty clear.

I crossed at the same point you did. Maybe there is another crossing father up battle creek that leads to a new trail alignment?

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miah66
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Re: Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

Post by miah66 » May 28th, 2015, 6:23 pm

greenjello85 wrote:
I crossed at the same point you did. Maybe there is another crossing father up battle creek that leads to a new trail alignment?
I know! I was following your track from your dayhike TR! We both completely blew that jct, ended up crossing motherlode creek upstream from where the actual trail goes. If you look closely at my trail you can see where I backtracked to the motherlode crossing. I didn't cross the creek again however.

The trail going up the opposite ridge is the welcome lakes trail.
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miah66
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Re: Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

Post by miah66 » May 28th, 2015, 6:34 pm

-Q- wrote:Regarding the road in to Elk Lake... how much overhanging brush is there??
Doesn't look like much in the picture you included.

I am not at all concerned about a rough road, but overhanging brush is my nemesis.

Thanks!!
No brush. Road is wide in most places up to at least the campground.
"The top...is not the top" - Mile...Mile & a Half

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miah66
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Re: Twin Lakes Loop (BOTW Wilderness) from Elk Lake

Post by miah66 » May 28th, 2015, 6:45 pm

Hagbard Celine wrote:However, how many miles and EG would you say it was to the first camp you guys set up? And how far from that camp was the second crossing you decided not to ford?
First nights camp at Battle Creek was all level or downhill, prob about 5.5 miles. The second crossing was about 1.5 miles beyond the camp. I hope to do the lower section of the ELC Trail sometime in the future, creek crossings and all. It's similar to Siouxon in feel and look.
Love that circular shot!
Thanks! I was trying to do a 360 photosphere but i messed up. Sometimes the best photos are total accidents. Don't you think?
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