Metolius River Backpack Trip: 5/1/14-5/3/14

This forum is used to share your experiences out on the trails.
Post Reply
User avatar
Born2BBrad
Posts: 1086
Joined: May 1st, 2011, 7:26 pm
Location: The Dalles

Metolius River Backpack Trip: 5/1/14-5/3/14

Post by Born2BBrad » May 4th, 2014, 4:54 pm

What: Backpacking the Middle and Lower Metolius River
Who: Brad (Born2BBrad) and Chris (Hiker Chris)
When: 5/1/14-5/3/14
Why: Because, because, because, because, because. Because of the wonderful thing it was.
Route: Downriver from Bridge 99, river trail, on to closed Metolius River Road (AKA NF-1499), past private property, to another river trail, to the end of closed Montgomery Road (AKA NF-64/Hwy 64), Drift Campground, Monty Campground, 2+ miles past Monty Campground on Montgomery Road, returned mostly the same way.

Facts about the Metolius River:
- Pronounced muh TOLL ee us.
- 29 miles long.
- Tributary of the Deschutes River via Lake Billy Chinook in Central Oregon.
- Officially designated a National Wild and Scenic River in 1988.
- Headwaters are at Metolius Springs, where it emerges from two springs 300 feet apart at the base of Black Butte.
- Metolius Springs springwater gushes from its underground source at a rate of 50,000 gallons per minute, making the Metolius River one of the largest spring-fed rivers in the United States.

When I was growing up, my family used to go camping on the Metolius River at Lower Bridge Campground, just downriver of Bridge 99, almost every year. We would usually stay in the same campspot every time, number 8. Most of our time was spent fishing, where I would mostly catch rocks and submerged logs. Once, my brothers and I hiked downstream for a half an hour and came back to a mother who was worried to death we had fallen in to the river.

For a while I have known that the Middle and Lower Metolius River sections were good semi-wilderness early-season backpacking destinations.

PH member arundodonax posted a trip report about the area in March that made me ponder a trip out there this year.

With good weather forecasted for the entire week, Chris and I took a couple of days off work to see what that area was all about. PH member Retired Jerry was kind enough to provide his GPS tracks, which I uploaded to my GPS. While a person could do the trip without tracks, they were helpful a few times. Jerry's PH field guide write ups were helpful as well. It's always nice to have an idea of what to expect. Thanks Jerry!

So on Thursday, May 1st, I picked Chris up at 6:30 AM and we were on the trail by 10:30 AM later that day.

Opening picture:
Image

Tracks in Google Earth:
Image

Tracks in NatGeo Topo:
Image

Fly fisherman just upstream of Bridge 99:
Image

Bridge 99 over the Metolius River:
Image

Trailhead at Bridge 99/Lower Bridge Campground:
Image

My childhood camping spot at Lower Bridge Campground:
Image

Sign indicating trail usage:
Image

Sign warning boaters:
Image

Short video showing how fast the river flows:


Radio telemetry station:
Image

Sign explaining the radio telemetry station:
Image

The first bar downstream of Lower Bridge Campground:
Image

One of the many camping areas just downstream of Lower Bridge Campground:
Image

Road walking:
Image

Sometimes the road is right next to the river:
Image

As we walked along, we would pass one river bar after another, many with campsites ranging from barely adequate to fantastic. I guess you could say we were bar hopping. Ba dum bum! Cymbal crash!

A good campsite on one of the bars around 6.5 miles:
Image

More road walking, often times in the shade...
Image

... sometimes out in the open:
Image

No trespassing sign at the private property line:
Image

I found it amusing that there was a mailbox out in the middle of nowhere:
Image

Some old cable from logging in days past:
Image

For sale sign:
Image

For sale flyer:
Image

For $330,000 this could be yours:
Image

Blue copper butterflies on my pack licking salt from the strap:
Image

Blue copper butterfly on my finger:
Image

By this time I was hungry and ready to eat anything:
Image

Fun fact about blue copper butterflies:
They rely 100% on wild buckwheat plants as their sole source of food:

Shortly after passing the private property, Chris, who was ahead of me stopped and said, "Bear!" I looked up just in time to see the brush moving as it fled into the forest, branches and bushes crashing all the way. Chris said it was a big one and it was running away from us even before he saw it. It did just what bears are supposed to do when they encounter humans.

Immediately after the two parcels of private property, the road became more overgrown:
Image

At first it was just some easy to step over logs:
Image

Every so often the road would get very near the river:
Image

Fresh bear poop glistening in the sun:
Image

Garbage dump left by some lazy slob:
Image

Once the road ended the path followed a sometimes difficult and overgrown trail:
Image

View from the trail above the river:
Image

Sloping trail right next to the river:
Image

Chris crawling underneath a downed log:
Image

I found a morel mushroom:
Image

I told you I was hungry:
Image

Trail washout. Yes, that's the trail. Just hop on the rock and jump to the other side:
Image

Eventually the trail comes to the end of a road:
Image

More road walking:
Image

Campsite at Drift Camp:
Image

Someone had built a shelter there around a fire pit:
Image

Trail from Drift Camp to the far end of Monty Campground:
Image

Bar on the far end of Monty Campground:
Image

I dug up an article about Monty Campground being closed a few years back because it was a party destination for high school kids. You might want to avoid that area once the road there opens up.

Fish screwtrap at Monty Campground:
Image

Sign on the screwtrap:
Image

As we were walking along the road through an area that had been burned not too long ago, I noticed a bird nest in one of the tree snags. Then another and another. Within a five minute walking distance, there were at least fifteen large bird nests in the many snags. If you are not familiar with what a tree snag is, it is a dead tree, usually missing its top or many of its branches.

Ospreys in their nest:
Image

Osprey perched in its nest:
Image

Golden eagles on a nest and in flight:
Image

Golden eagle on its perch:
Image

Private property sign warning not to remove rattlesnakes:
Image

The road to Monty Campground is still gated:
Image

Sign explaining the gate closure:
Image

View of the Metolius arm of Lake Billy Chinook:
Image

Skilton's skink:
Image

On the return trip, just after passing Monty Campground, while walking on the road, I nearly stepped on a rattlesnake. Fortunately, it must have felt the vibrations of us walking and shook its rattle vigorously then slithered away. Needless to say, I was more than startled. It was about three and a half feet long and I didn't even see it right there in front of me on the road. Of course, I wasn't so startled that I couldn't take a picture, safely with the zoom lens of course.

The rattlesnake I almost stepped on:
Image

Remnants of an owl that met its fate here:
Image

This western toad did not want to sit still for a picture:
Image

Fisherman bicyclist passing us on the road:
Image

Final notes:
- No ticks or mosquitoes. A few black flies.
- There was more road walking than trail walking.
- Some sections of the trail are overgrown with slap-you-in-the-face bushes and numerous downed logs.
- We saw one person on a bike and two trucks on the closed road the entire trip.
- Stats: 42.1 miles, 2800' EG., 13.27 hours moving time.
Last edited by Born2BBrad on May 4th, 2014, 5:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Make now always the most precious time. Now will never come again.
- Jean Luc Picard

Link to GPX tracks
Link to Trip Reports

User avatar
Sean Thomas
Posts: 1647
Joined: February 25th, 2012, 11:33 pm

Re: Metolius River Backpack Trip: 5/1/14-5/3/14

Post by Sean Thomas » May 4th, 2014, 5:31 pm

Wow, sounds like an awesome trip B2! Cool shots of the skink and the rattlesnake too.

User avatar
kelkev
Posts: 800
Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:03 pm
Location: McMinnville, OR

Re: Metolius River Backpack Trip: 5/1/14-5/3/14

Post by kelkev » May 4th, 2014, 6:29 pm

Awesome. My wife and I were RV camped at Camp Sherman from Wed-Sat. Like you, I've been going there since I was a kid. I'm guessing that the buyer of the "lodge" gets a key to the gate.....
"Going to the mountains is going home."
— John Muir

Post Reply