My first trip ever to the Goat Rocks Wilderness was a big hit. I don't know why I had avoided going there so long, but after having done a big tour of the area for the three past days, I now see what all the fuss is about. Just splendid.
Yes, there's still snow, but only in one main area: Goat Lake to Heart Lake. The rest of the area I visited was just fine.
I did a large loop of the wilderness, starting at the Packwood Lake TR, following the PCT south along the crest, over Old Snowy Mountain, through the highest point on the Washington PCT, down into the Snowgrass area, then north to Jordan Basin, Heart Lake Basin, Lily Basin and out. I think the distance was somewhere in the range of 40 miles, but it felt like more because of the snow. The route is described in Backpacking Washington, with a few small changes.
So we begin with the mostly viewless slog to Packwood Lake. A lovely setting, the lake has views up to the north end of the Goat Rocks. One family was camping there and another was doing a day hike.
[BTW these pics supposedly have GPS coordinates embedded in them. I could view them on Google maps to show the whole track, but I couldn't figure out how to post the map here. This was apparently beyond my tech pay grade]
Packwood Lake on Day 1
The bugs were pretty awful from Packwood Lake to Coyote Ridge. But once on the ridge (say 5500 ft) the bugs disappeared.
Here is Coyote Ridge. The flowers were in full effect. The approach to the basin below was unbelievable.
I camped the first night near the intersection of Coyote Ridge and the Saddle Creek Trail (about 1 mile before meeting the PCT). The next morning, the big show awaited. By that I mean, the incredibly dramatic climb over the Goat Rocks and the Cascade crest, crossing the highest point of the Washington PCT.
Intersection of the PCT. Now heading south.
Check out the ridge. I thought for sure I'd hit snow on a steep area and have to turn back. But my luck was running high that day. The trail stayed snow-free, despite snow drops to the left and right. We're at around 7,000 feet here. I see why Backpacking Washington warned to cross this section only in good weather as hikers have died of hypothermia along the route. Lots of signs warning those with pack animals not to pass hikers.
Lots of smells of goats along the way. Here is a goat scratching post right on the PCT as it follows the Cascade crest.
Looking down to the basin before hitting Old Snowy Mountain
The highest point of the PCT in Washington looking at Old Snowy Mountain.
Coming down to the western side of the Goat Rocks was a welcome relief. I was surprised to find more snow over here. But still the trail was easy to follow. I'd say the PCT was about 40% snow-covered, but a boot pack and cairns made it easy-going.
Here is the intersection of the PCT and Snowgrass Trail. Two groups were camping in the area, but lots of empty campsites were available. Here were the first people I saw in 24 hours since leaving Packwood Lake.
After dropping down to Snowgrass Flat (disappointing without flowers, but still only 10% snow), I headed north along the Lily Basin Trail on Day 2. This is where the hiking got hard.
I approached Goat Lake around 4pm, and clouds started to roll in. I was hoping to hike over to the Heart Lake basin for the night, but the weather was deteriorating quickly.
Goat Lake was, well, still quite "snowy."
The hike from Goat Lake over the ridge to the Heart Lake basin was the most challenging of the trip. Deep, steep snow drifts remained. And the low visibility with clouds made the crossing no fun. I decided to leave the "trail" (which was 90% under snow anyway) and head to the trees for the night (good call). Night 2 was spent in a nondescript site somewhere in the Heart Lake Basin.
Day 3 (my hike out day) the weather was clear and visibility excellent. My plan was to hike to the Lily Basin TR and then find a way back to the Packwood TH (my car). It turned out to be a crumby plan.
There was still snow along the Lily Basin Trail, but at least I could see. I was glad to have my Yak Trax for the frozen snow drifts.
Looking down at Heart Lake.
Intersection of the Angry Mountain Trail (the obligatory picture of flowers and Rainier). BTW, the flowers were spectacular along the Lily Basin and Coyote Ridge Trails. I just didn't take many flower pictures, but they were lovely.
Packwood Lake far below on the Lily Basin Trail.
So Backpacking Washington recommends making this a car shuttle. Well, after looking at the map, I thought I could scramble back to my car at the Packwood Lake TH along FS roads and X-country without doing a shuttle. That's what I did for four long hours. It was horrible and I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy. But I found my car, and home I went (just under three hours to Portland).
I'll be back again to explore this fantastic area.
