Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

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Don Nelsen
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Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

Post by Don Nelsen » October 11th, 2023, 4:52 pm

This little hike was a long time coming but finally happened thanks to my friend Matt. I’d heard about “The lost steam donkey of Belding” back in ’06 and spent a day trying find it in the wilds of the area but to no avail. The RR was still in active use back then and the bridge across the Salmonberry River was still intact. I walked across and wandered about on the old roads and a trail I spotted. I didn’t have enough info though and didn’t know that the lost donkey wasn’t very close to the old RR town site so completely failed in my quest. I see now that I got to within 2/10 mile of it, but in that kind of terrain, it might as well have been ten miles.

This appears to be the remains of the bridge I crossed years ago. About a quarter mile downstream from where it once was.
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To access the site, you turn south off of Hwy 26 onto Wheeler Road about 10.5 miles west of the tunnel on route 26. This well-graded gravel road goes another 11.6 miles to the now-missing bridge across the Salmonberry River. The road changes names to Wheeler Cutoff Road and then Wheeler Pond Road and finally to Beaver Slide Road. It’s all good except the final 1.3 miles: Much of that part is a 20% grade, sometimes even more. 4WD recommended!

An interesting sight along the way. This is at a spot where the road crosses an old RR grade. This is 14 feet up these trees.
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We made it past the big water bars, and occasional big rocks to arrive at the bottom of the canyon - hoping we would be able to get back out later.

Looking back at the tunnel the Beaver Slide Road crosses over:
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This would be Matt’s new pup’s first off-trail hike. There were a few spots with major washouts along the RR line that Matt worried his dog might not be able to climb. At 65 lbs. we hoped Archie could handle it since he would be a chore to lift up. As it turned out, he was more than able, and a delight to hike with.

Starting out along the RR grade:
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The Salmonberry River railroad line we used to access the steam donkey was built from 1906 to 1911 and must have been constantly rebuilt and repaired given the erratic nature of the river and the very deep, steep and unstable canyon it was built in. The line was active until the first few days of Dec. 2007 when a major wind and rainstorm wiped out trestles and bridges and did other major damage. I well remember the night of Dec. 2/3, 2007, as I was on a Hawaiian Air 767 on the way back from Maui at the height of the windstorm and the jet had to use the very short landing strip used only for high south winds. It was a very steep descent and a rough landing at about midnight. I think that was when the big slide occurred on the south slope of Greenleaf Peak. But that is another story.

Southern Pacific still owns the line but so far, hasn't decided to either officially abandon it or spend many millions to rebuild it. Except for the RR grade itself, this area is entirely state-owned land.

More views along the grade:
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The first tunnel we encountered:
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Spooky!
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This does not look safe:
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This looked even less safe. Matt challenged me to see if I could walk the rail. I declined.
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Nice fall color!
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It was 43 degrees with wet foliage as we started out. After hiking for an hour or so, and just a few feet up the hill from the RR line the east wind started blowing and it was dry and twenty degrees warmer. The hills are super steep here so we were happy to have an abundant supply of sword ferns to grab hold of to get us up the hill. Archie didn’t have any problems with this, to both Matt’s and my delight.

Nestled into these hundred-year-old trees, the donkey is not easily visible until you are almost on top of it. Its rusty brown patina blends in with its surrounding very well. It looked like most of the donkey was there with a few parts missing. It appears to have been partially salvaged, but most is still there. The only really big piece we noticed missing was the main part of the “dunce cap” chimney. More on that later.

Success at last:
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Wow! is this serious rust, or what!?
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Matt had been here earlier in the year and prepared this sign to hang on the donkey:
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We enjoyed lunch, took a bunch of photos and then went farther up the hill to take a look at the water tank used to feed the boiler. Having satisfied our curiosity, we headed back down. Instead of the long traverse on the steep slope we came in on, we decided to head directly back on a ridge. Hoping we wouldn’t get cliffed out. We followed the path of least resistance and ended up in a steep stream canyon littered with devil’s club and other delightful obstacles. Then, about 600 feet downhill from the donkey, we spotted the rest of the “dunce cap” chimney! These chimneys were often not salvaged with the donkeys as they weren’t much valued for scrap. They litter the gorge and Larch Mt., but I’ve usually found them near remains of donkey parts and skids, so this was a surprise. We took a few photos and continued back, happy to get back to relatively flat ground.

On the way up the slope to find the water tank:
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The water tank, located a few hundred feet up the hill and in a stream channel:
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Here's that elusive chimney we found on the way back down:
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I think I’ll go back again and walk more of the old RR line and see what else I can find. There are at least 7 more tunnels and who knows how many trestles and bridges, so it promises to be a great adventure.

3.5 miles, but felt like 10+, 550' EG, hike # 112
"Everything works in the planning stage" - Kelly

"If you don't do it this year, you will be one year older when you do" - Warren Miller

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arlohike
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Re: Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

Post by arlohike » October 11th, 2023, 6:28 pm

This is awesome, thanks for sharing for anyone who wants to try it or just enjoy it vicariously ... I'm not sure which category I'm in! The rail lifted by the trees is amazing. Also, I like the sign you left there.
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Webfoot
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Re: Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

Post by Webfoot » October 11th, 2023, 8:20 pm

Very cool artifact hike. Please be careful on the return, "This does not look safe" and all.

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Splintercat
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Re: Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

Post by Splintercat » October 11th, 2023, 8:47 pm

Great report, Don! Love the sign that Matt made for the Steam Donkey, too -- thanks for doing that!

...I also don't believe that you DIDN'T walk those old steel rails hanging over that creek. I know you too well, Don... :D

Thanks for posting!

-Tom

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Chip Down
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Re: Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

Post by Chip Down » October 11th, 2023, 9:08 pm

What a fun TR! I was a ways into it when I realized "hey, I've been there!" (evidence below) [edit: pic didn't load, but I can find and post a link to my TR if there's any interest]

Highly recommended for folks who like weird old creepy stuff. :D

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RobFromRedland
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Re: Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

Post by RobFromRedland » October 12th, 2023, 5:36 am

I walked the canyon several years ago before it got so overgrown. So much history and artifacts to see and I'm always amazed at the power of natures fury. I had always wanted to go down Beaver Slide road, but I was always a bit worried about how steep it was, and getting back out (even with 4WD). You obviously got in and out OK.

I may put this on my list to explore at some point.....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: WOW! What a ride! - Hunter S. Thompson

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Don Nelsen
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Re: Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

Post by Don Nelsen » October 12th, 2023, 10:36 am

RobFromRedland wrote:
October 12th, 2023, 5:36 am
I walked the canyon several years ago before it got so overgrown. So much history and artifacts to see and I'm always amazed at the power of natures fury. I had always wanted to go down Beaver Slide road, but I was always a bit worried about how steep it was, and getting back out (even with 4WD). You obviously got in and out OK.

I may put this on my list to explore at some point.....
Matt's Subaru did just fine but he had to take it out of traction control mode so he could spin the wheels if needed. There was only one spot where it was little dicey, but we got past it all right. The road has been very recently regraded so is looser than normal, but it didn't seem to hurt. I found this video on You Tube of a quad going up it in the past few days.
The video doesn't do justice to how steep this thing is!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEJCkwD4SWo
"Everything works in the planning stage" - Kelly

"If you don't do it this year, you will be one year older when you do" - Warren Miller

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Don Nelsen
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Re: Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

Post by Don Nelsen » October 12th, 2023, 10:36 am

Splintercat wrote:
October 11th, 2023, 8:47 pm
Great report, Don! Love the sign that Matt made for the Steam Donkey, too -- thanks for doing that!

...I also don't believe that you DIDN'T walk those old steel rails hanging over that creek. I know you too well, Don... :D

Thanks for posting!

-Tom
Well, truth be known....! (I did think about it)
Last edited by Don Nelsen on October 21st, 2023, 10:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Everything works in the planning stage" - Kelly

"If you don't do it this year, you will be one year older when you do" - Warren Miller

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Don Nelsen
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Re: Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

Post by Don Nelsen » October 12th, 2023, 10:38 am

Chip Down wrote:
October 11th, 2023, 9:08 pm
What a fun TR! I was a ways into it when I realized "hey, I've been there!" (evidence below) [edit: pic didn't load, but I can find and post a link to my TR if there's any interest]

Highly recommended for folks who like weird old creepy stuff. :D
Weird and old, yep, that must be me :o I'm curious, please post pics of your trip.
"Everything works in the planning stage" - Kelly

"If you don't do it this year, you will be one year older when you do" - Warren Miller

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RobFromRedland
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Re: Salmonberry River Steam Donkey Hunt, Oct. 6th, 2023

Post by RobFromRedland » October 12th, 2023, 7:48 pm

Don Nelsen wrote:
October 12th, 2023, 10:36 am
Matt's Subaru did just fine but he had to take it out of traction control mode so he could spin the wheels if needed. There was only one spot where it was little dicey, but we got past it all right. The road has been very recently regraded so is looser than normal, but it didn't seem to hurt. I found this video on You Tube of a quad going up it in the past few days.
The video doesn't do justice to how steep this thing is!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEJCkwD4SWo
My understanding is that it is just the last section (1/2 -3/4 mile) that is REALLY steep - the rest isn't too bad is it? Regardless, it is obvious it gets a decent amount of traffic (the quad passed a car going down!)

If I end up going up there, it will probably be when it is dry - not sure I'd want to try and negotiate that hill when it was wet.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: WOW! What a ride! - Hunter S. Thompson

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