up Eliot Glacier, over Cooper Spur, down Newton Clark glacier

Discussions and Trip Reports for off-trail adventures and rediscovering lost trails
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Chip Down
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Re: up Eliot Glacier, over Cooper Spur, down Newton Clark glacier

Post by Chip Down » July 22nd, 2019, 6:59 pm

Thanks Mike.
So let's use the old roped route as a reference point.
I've always felt comfortable going up, slightly uneasy going down. (I mean, you know, without the rope.)
How would you compare the higher route up around 7300/7400'?

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mjirving
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Re: up Eliot Glacier, over Cooper Spur, down Newton Clark glacier

Post by mjirving » July 22nd, 2019, 7:17 pm

I would say the upper route is similar in steepness but with bigger rocks, so if nothing moves, then the upper route is easier, but if something does move it’s bigger so you have to be a bit careful about that. Does that make sense? Jerry may have some insight too as I believe he’s done both.

Here is a picture. It’s steeper than the picture portrays, but you can get a feel for the rock sizes.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/tb1t1w4zd6scn ... 0.JPG?dl=0

Based on what you’ve done I’d say it’s a piece of cake for you (knock on wood)

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Chip Down
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Re: up Eliot Glacier, over Cooper Spur, down Newton Clark glacier

Post by Chip Down » July 22nd, 2019, 7:43 pm

Okay, looks good. Pic makes it look like you'd have to get way up into the crevasse zone, but I'm sure that's not the case. Pretty sure I recognize that peak up to the right, and if I watch the altitude and utilize my immense alpine expertise ( :lol: ) I should be fine.

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mjirving
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Re: up Eliot Glacier, over Cooper Spur, down Newton Clark glacier

Post by mjirving » July 23rd, 2019, 2:55 am

Yeah you stay below the crevasse zone for sure. Just the ones we don’t see. :shock:

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retired jerry
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Re: up Eliot Glacier, over Cooper Spur, down Newton Clark glacier

Post by retired jerry » July 23rd, 2019, 5:21 am

I've tried getting up the west side several times

If you skirt the bottom of the glacier, at about 7200 feet, the slope is rocky and you can get up it not too bad, easier up than down

Below that, at maybe 6800 feet, there's a really loose slope up. Typical moraine material. Down is much easier because for each step down, you slide another. Going up - for each step up you slide 3/4 step back down. I wore these shoes with a mesh outer and a Goretex membrane inside. Glacier silt got between the mesh and the membrane. I had to throw them away.

Now I just take that nice trail they put in

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