St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

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Chip Down
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St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

Post by Chip Down » July 16th, 2017, 7:55 pm

[starting with a PSA: anybody wishing to recreate this route, or a variation, should know that a climbing permit is required]

abstract: From the Plains of Abraham on the east side of St Helens, I approached the obvious big/low snowfield, but after weighing options I ascended left/south to gain an obvious snowfield that was continuous almost all the way to the rim. Later discovered the bottom part is continuous all the way to Ape Creek, making this a remarkably direct crater-rim route, on snow from the creek up to the crater rim, except the last few yards.

This was my first alpine trip this year, taking a break from my gorge obsession. So nice to get away from ticks and traffic and flip-floppers and mosquitoes (up high anyway). Cool breezes, open terrain and amazing views, unlimited water supply. Marmots and chipmunks and goats, oh my! (Maybe not a marmot, too far away to be sure. Are there Marmots on St H?) One thing I didn't like was the approach hike, and the horrible headlamp death-march back down, arriving back at the TH around midnight. Oh, and the sunburn.

My day began with a bit of whimsy. The start of the Ape Canyon trail was flooded, but there was a sign that said dry trail, carry water.

The Ape Canyon trail is well documented, so I'm going to fast-forward to my arrival at Ape Canyon. As I approached the slot, before I even knew that's where I was, I spotted a goat! I don't think they were here when I was last on the mountain. I was hoping to see some, but hadn't thought of it all morning, so it was a great way to usher in the fun part of the hike, after the boring trail was over. We noticed each other and looked at each other. I wish it had occurred to me to say "Oh, hi! You're a goat!" (A bit of an inside joke there.) It was moulting in a way that made it look like a goat wearing a bigger goat costume. It scampered down the steep hillside into the basin that feeds the slot, and wandered up closer to me, but I couldn't get a good look because of brush.

I moved on, explored a bit, ran into somebody's campsite, started back to the trail, and on to Plains of Abraham, one of the coolest alpine spots around. Time to sit and look at the mountain. I wanted to find a new route to the rim, maybe Dog's Head (not exactly sure where that is). I headed for the biggest lowest snowfield, under a trio of waterfalls. When I reached the snowfield, I couldn't pick a route that I knew would be continuous. Every possibility involved hidden portions or short sections that looked maybe sketchy. Decided the best thing to do would be to veer back south as I ascended, aiming for a long continuous snowfield that leads nearly to the rim. Only tough part might be getting to it.

After a horrible unstable crumbly scary scramble, I progressed up and south through a pleasant variety of rocky/sandy slopes and gullies and ridges, crossing or following a few scenic little creeks until I reached my target snowfield, but before ascending it I went up to a saddle on the ridge that runs alongside my snowfield, and then I went out of my way to the east(left) a little, gaining the top of a little knoll. After soaking in the scenery for a while, I dropped back to the snowfield and started up, finally making fast progress. It was non-technical, and I was able to enjoy the scenery as I trudged up. But that got boring, so I went left to the broad ridge and followed it up, discovering a little snowfield and creek in a depression on the ridge. Ahead I saw a jumbled steep section that looked impossible, and I figured I'd go back to the snow there. But up close the snow looked steep and the rock didn't look so bad, so I stayed on ridgecrest. Bad move. Terribly unstable. It always looked like it was about to get better, but it never did. Worked my way right, back to the snow, looking for a spot where I could safely take my pack off and don crampons again.

It was good to get back to the relative safety of snow. I mostly clung to the edge, using rocks for a little extra security. Above the slagheap, the ridge mellowed out, but I mostly stayed on snow anyway, because I was running late. I had a turnaround time of 5:10, and that was only 20 minutes away! I hustled up the snowfield until I could see a steep drop towards the crater on my right at 5:00, and later on my left, sure signs that the rim had to be close. It was a jumbled mess though, and I wasn't quite sure which direction would be best. Heck, I didn't even see any sign I was getting close, other than those glimpses of the rim to my left and right.

Finally, at 5:15, I gazed into the abyss. I hate hearing people casually overuse the word "awesome", but this was truly awesome. Little clouds swirled around, mingling with plumes of steam. There was still plenty of snow, but not enough to completely obscure the crevasses on the glacier. It was expected to be very windy, but they got it wrong; the weather was sublime. I wished I had an hour to sit and bask, and maybe a couple hours to explore other parts of the rim, but I had dawdled on the ascent, overconfident, expecting this to be easy/fast. Ambivalent, partly grateful and partly disappointed, I started down at 5:30.

The descent went very fast. Glissading was easy, mostly on snow but sometimes on scree/sand. Occasionally I had to slow down, when it got steep or when I lacked a safe runout. I was dreading the part next to the slagheap, but I got through it okay.

I reached the distinctive point where I had gained the snowfield in the morning, but from there I wasn't exactly sure what route I had taken up. I was able to rule out a few possibilities, but that's all. I had a little time to experiment and explore though, so I poked around in various places, which was fun. When I finally seriously set about to get down to Abe, I realized I was cliffed out. Oops. Should have made sure I was completely safe before wasting daylight on exploration. I ran around a bit to check out options, picked what seemed to be the best one, and managed to find the my way down.

I sat on a big rock on the PoA and ate/drank as I enjoyed falling dusk, then found the trail. When I reached the Ape Creek crossing, I was overwhelmed with a need to confirm it went up to my snowfield. It did.

Arrived back at the Ape Canyon overlook as it was nearing headlamp time. Relaxed a bit until it was fully dark, and started the five-mile trudge back down.
Attachments
0.jpg
As seen from lower Ape Canyon Trail. Top arrow is where I gained the rim. Bottom arrow is the big low snowfield I started up from PoA. Also marked: knoll and slagheap.
1.jpg
Crossing my snowfield on the way to the parallel ridge. Knoll to left, ascent to right.
2.jpg
Scientific detritus on the knoll.
3.jpg
The route viewed from the knoll.
4.jpg
The bonus snowfield and creek tucked into my ridge. Slagheap directly above.
5.jpg
I wasn't expecting to see Spirit Lake.
6.jpg
I guess no comment is necessary here. I think everybody gets it.
7.jpg
Shadows creeping over PoA as the sun went down.
8.jpg
going...going...
9.jpg
From this spot, I could see how I should have gone. So obvious. But too much of the snowline was hidden from other perspectives, so I couldn't have known.

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Chip Down
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Re: St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

Post by Chip Down » July 16th, 2017, 8:02 pm

bonus pics
Attachments
b1.jpg
Google marks it Ape Glacier. Sure enough, there are signs of creep.
b2.jpg
Too much to explore, not enough time.
b3.jpg
Just a quick victory sip at the rim. Had to keep my head on straight for the fast descent.
b4.jpg
"My," said the setting sun, "what a long shadow you have."
b5.jpg
looked promising, but dead end
b6.jpg
Goat tracks. Also saw a lot of goat wool all over.
b7.jpg
Notice my prominent descent route, fresh white streaks on the dirty snow. I almost (but not quite) feel guilty about marring the pristine mountain. I bet my tracks will be visible from PoA until blowing ash/sand blends them in.

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Peder
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Re: St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

Post by Peder » July 17th, 2017, 1:50 am

Wow - great trip report Chip. It sounds like you got more than your fair share of exercise. The only one I know who has considered going up there is the usual culprit. His motivation is quite different from yours, the biggest attraction being that for him the Dog's Head is a "high point." I saw recently that the Dog's Head lost a large mass of rock and hence height, must have been quite the landslide into the crater.
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Re: St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

Post by Webfoot » July 17th, 2017, 4:42 am

That sounds like a real adventure. :shock: I wouldn't think to tell you not to go where you go, but I hope you'll be as careful as possible with things you can control, like leaving yourself enough daylight!

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K.Wagner
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Re: St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

Post by K.Wagner » July 17th, 2017, 11:54 am

Peder,

I wonder how much elevation the Dog's Head actually lost? It only had 360ft of prominence, so I wonder if it is under 300 ft now, so that it is off the official ranked summits list? Technically, THE SUMMIT was illegal anyway.

Chip Down, I will post a couple of pictures of the Dog's Head in another posting. It is just out of sight, to the right in your opening picture.
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K.Wagner
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Re: St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

Post by K.Wagner » July 17th, 2017, 4:34 pm

Here's 2 pictures of the Dog's Head (which bears absolutely no connection with the Dog's Head of pre-eruption, other than it's on the same side of the mountain).

This is the view that visitor's to the Windy Ridge area see, although my guess is that VERY few know what they are looking at, if they even care at all .....
Dogs_Head.JPG
Taken Aug 13, 2016


This is the view from Peak 4882, which is NE across the Plains of Abraham, and seen in your last sunset pictures ...
Dogs_Head-4882.jpg
Taken Sept 24, 2106
As I stated previously, the actual summit is supposedly inside the crater zone, therefore illegal. So, if you do it, just say: "I got really close & I could see it from where I stopped!"

Oh, your "slag heap" at the start actually has a name ..... "East Dome". That sounds much more alpine & scenic than "Slag Heap" does, although your name is probably a better descriptor. ;)

By the way, welcome to Skamania County! I know you've done a number of Gorge things, but now you've finally ventured into the heart of Skamania County! There's about 227 summits left for you do put your boots on.....
Last edited by K.Wagner on July 18th, 2017, 5:04 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

Post by kepPNW » July 17th, 2017, 5:03 pm

Here are a couple shots by a MSHI volunteer...
  • Image
These were recently posted on FB with the caption...
Andy Goodwin wrote:The Dog’s head is the tall rocky pinnacle on the NE corner of the rim. It was an popular way-point for pre-eruption climbers and much of it survived the 1980 landslide. I watched a lot of big rock slides from it last year including one that was so big that it sounded like thunder and filled the crater with dust for over an hour. In the past the Dog’s Head was the highest pinnacle on that part of the rim. That has changed.
Photo courtesy Andy Goodwin.
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Re: St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

Post by K.Wagner » July 17th, 2017, 6:57 pm

Thanks Karl. I'm going to guess that that loss was well over 60 feet! One more down.
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Re: St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

Post by kepPNW » July 18th, 2017, 5:36 am

K.Wagner wrote:Thanks Karl. I'm going to guess that that loss was well over 60 feet! One more down.
Yeah, kinda looks like it. Gotta hand it to Andy, to have even noticed that! Just reviewed my photos from 2013 and 2017, and can totally see it now, but sure I wouldn't have without it being pointed out.
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Re: St Helens crater rim from Plains of Abraham

Post by K.Wagner » July 18th, 2017, 4:02 pm

Was just looking at my 2 pictures, and they show the loss. I hadn't noticed it until now.

An interesting side result of this slump, is that "what was illegal, is now legal", because the summit has shifted a few feet to the east. That said, there is now no justifiable reason for me to expend the required energy to summit this one!
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