Revision as of 18:13, 1 January 2007

Devil's Backbone at sunset

Rock Arch along the Rock of Ages Trail

Looking East from inside the Arch

• Start Point: Horsetail Falls Trailhead
• End Point: Horsetail Falls Trailhead
• Trail Log : Trail Log
• Hike Type: Loop
• Distance: 10.4 miles
• Elevation gain:
• Difficulty: Difficult due to length and creek ford
• Seasons: Apr-Oct
• Family Friendly: No
• Backpackable: Yes
• Crowded: Only at trailhead

Hike Description

Rock of Ages and Saint Peter's Dome are two large rock formations standing like Roman soilders in front of Yeon Mountain in the Columbia River Gorge. While there is no well-worn trail down to either of the formations themselves, the Rock of Ages hike offers some unique perspectives these basaltic domes, while taking you to three lesser-known but worthwhile viewpoints in the Gorge.

This is a primative trail along a steep, non-maintained path. At points it is a scramble with some exposure, hikers should be cautioned not to stray off-trail.

The hike starts at Horsetail Falls Trailhead. Start up Horsetail Falls Trail #438, which gains about 300 feet in five switchbacks. (You'll pass a junction with Gorge Trail #400 at the third bend.) Soon the trail levels out with some great viewpoints then veers South (left) sharply as it wraps around a corner and heads into the gorge at the top of Horsetail Falls. Just after this bend, and before Ponytail Falls, watch for a large tree on your left that looks to have been hurdled by a thousand root-clinging children. This is the start of the primative Rock of Ages trail. You may have passed by this a half-dozen times not noticing that a scant trail that continues beyond this tree, and further, a cryptic sign saying "Trail Not Maintained" sign about 50 feet uphill.

Since the Rock of Ages Trail is not maintained, prepare for blowdowns and loose rock on this very steep trail. You'll be climbing hand over foot in places, so watch that you don't grab any of the poison oak common to this area. Within the first 1/8 mile you'll see an overgrown side-path to the right that would take you to the top of Ponytail Falls.

Continue forward and straight uphill .8 of a mile and watch for a side trail to your left that drops elevation sharply. Take this must-see .3 mile side trek to the rock arch. This is a glorious viewpoint giving you a lessor-seen perspective of Rock of Ages, Saint Peters Dome and points East looking down the Columbia River Gorge. After taking turns snapping photos of the natural rock arch, take the side-trail back to the main trail and continue uphill.

The path continues to gain elevation steeply, as you'll begin to notice a well-defined ridgeline that you're traversing. Watch on your right as you get to about 0.9 miles and you'll see a large, jutting, rock formation. This is Devil's Backbone. Take care as you climb this ridge as it's straight down on one side. This offers some of the best views along the trail, giving you a great vantage point of the Horsetail Creek valley as it winds Northerly and drops out of sight into the Gorge. On a clear day, Mount Saint Helens is visible. This serves as a nice resting spot after such a tough climb, and possible turnaround point for those not opting to continue the loop.

At this point the steepest climbing is done.

Continue up the the Devil's Backbone ridgeline and pick up the trail again. The combination of distance, moderate elevation gain, and limited views will make the next 1 1/2 miles seem like ten. The trail levels out, then climbs again, and continues this cycle giving you the false impression that you are nearing the top of Yeon Mountain. There are some glimpses of Yeon Mountain proper through the trees on your left giving you some idea of how much more vertical ground you have to cover.

You'll enter a young forest of Spruce trees and lots of evidence from past fires in the area.

Finally at mile 2.6, your path will end abruptly at Horsetail Creek Trail #425.

Turn right on the Horsetail Creek Trail and enjoy a slightly downhill pattern for a ways. In the first mile, you'll cross 3 forks of Horsetail Creek, (East, Middle and West) all through simple fords. You'll meet the Bell Creek Trail #459, which heads off to the left into some great old growth (which eventually takes you to Larch Mountain).

After another .5 mile or so you'll encounter a series of long switchbacks as you decend down the Oneonta Creek gorge. Keep your eye out after about the sixth swithback for a sidetrail that takes you to a nice viewpoint of Larch Mountain lording over the gorge valley. When you get to the first of two small creek crossings the bulk of your switchbacking is complete. The trail is very overgrown through here and is wet in places (even in the middle of August) You still have one more small creek to cross and another 300 of so feet to drop before finally arriving at the Oneonta Creek Ford.

This is a nice spot to rest for awhile before the homestretch. You might consider crossing the creek before breaking, as there is a large (very nice!) campsite just out of view on the other side of the creek.

There's no bridge here and this can be a difficult ford in the winter or spring, when water levels are high. There is a downed tree just upstream. Some climbers opt to traverse the log rather than risk wet socks.

Find your way up to the campsite, then follow the trail uphill about 50 feet and you'll hit the junction with Oneonta Trail #424. (Going left here will take you to Larch Mountain or connect back to the Multnomah Falls basin)

Turn right and head down Oneonta Creek. You'll cross Oneonta Creek two more times, but your dry feet will be happy with the bridges. The trail continues past Triple Falls to a junction with Horsetail Falls Trail #438. Turn right here, hike down to Middle Oneonta Falls, past Ponytail Falls and back down the hill to your car.

Maps

• Maps: Hike Finder

Fees, Regulations, etc.

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Guidebooks that cover this hike

• Day Hike! Columbia Gorge, by Saebury Blair, Jr.
• Afoot and Afield Portland/Vancouver, by Douglas Lorain
• 35 Hiking Trails, Columbia River Gorge, by Don & Roberta Lowe
• Columbia River Gorge, 42 Scenic Hikes, by Don & Roberta Lowe
• Hiking the Columbia River Gorge - 1st and 2nd Editions, by Russ Schneider
• 100 Hikes in Northwest Oregon - 3rd Edition, by William L Sullivan

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Contributors

• Stevefromdodge (creator)
• jeffstatt (creator)