Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach Hike
From Oregon Hikers Field Guide
- Start point: Shingle Mill Trailhead
- End point: Short Sand Beach
- Trail log:
- Hike Type: In and out
- Distance: 15.9 miles
- Elevation gain: 2,750 feet
- High Point: 990 feet
- Difficulty: Difficult
- Seasons: year round
- Family Friendly: Yes
- Backpackable: Yes
- Crowded: No, except between Cape Falcon and Short Sand Beach
Contents |
Hike Description
The Oregon Coast Trail cobbles together beach and headland hikes to stretch, with gaps here and there, from Clatsop Spit to the California border. The stretch between the community of Arch Cape and Cape Falcon, in Oswald West State Park, is one the of the least travelled and therefore one which affords some solitude - although civilization is never too far away. The woods are often dark and deep, but once the coastal cliffs are attained, the hiker gets views of Cape Falcon's rugged cliffs, actually three headlands, before descending to the more peopled, but beautiful Sitka spruce forest near Short Sand Beach.
In addition to the in and out hike, there are a couple of other options here:
- Car shuttle (Shingle Mill Trailhead to Cape Falcon Trailhead): 8.4 miles
- Loop (From Cape Falcon Trailhead head back up along the Highway 101 shoulder to the Oregon Coast Trail crossing and then back down to the Shingle Mill Trailhead: 11.8 miles
Hike past the Oregon Coast Trail sign, which is at a telephone pole, and up a driveway to a nice suspension bridge over Arch Cape Creek. Next is a footbridge over a tributary. Here, the forest is composed of red alder, western hemlock, western red-cedar, Sitka spruce, and sword fern. Ascend gradually on an old road bed. Notice big cedar stumps to the right as well as a large patch of invasive spurge-laurel. The trail levels and then rises again into older woods of spruce and hemlock. Deer fern, salal, sword fern, and red huckleberry are the common understory plants. Make three switchbacks up past some big spruces before traversing up in dense newer forest. The trail levels, dips, and rises through a salmonberry thicket before becoming level. Walk along an old road bed on the ocean side of the slope and see Highway 101 below. The trails drops through a salmonberry clearing and then passes more big spruce before rising again. Then the path makes a final drop on an old logging road hemmed in by alders to reach Highway 101.
The Coast Trail resumes 50 yards south on the opposite side of Highway 101. Enter beautiful mossy woods. The trail drops past a huge cedar and crosses a footbridge over a creek. The path heads above a ravine and drops to cross two more footbridges. Undulate along below Highway 101 and pass into Tillamook County. The trail does some more undulating before crossing paved Falcon Cove Road. Cross five footbridges with the trail still close to the highway. Head up now until the trail becomes level and veers away from the highway on an old logging road in an area known as Elk Flats (Yes, look for elk sign here). Pass over a creek directed through a culvert. Then reach a wooden sign pointing left off the road bed for Cape Falcon.
The trail winds up in mossy woods and then traverses up a slope under large Sitka spruce. Make several switchbacks in dense, dark young spruce woods and head along a crest on an old logging road. Then drop in very dense, dark forest. Traverse up again, drop, and then wind down on the ever-rooty, muddy trail. Switchback down five times and then wind down to the cliffs above the ocean and the first viewpoint, which on a good day offers views all the way up to Tillamook Head. The trail switchbacks down twice and keeps descending in dense salal thickets shaded by Sitka spruce. Now the trail rises and then makes two short switchbacks down to a view of the colorful south headland of Cape Falcon.
From here, the trail descends in Sitka spruce woods to cross two creeks. The trail heads out the southern point of the Cape Falcon headland and drops through a dense salal thicket. From an unmarked junction, a spur leads right out to the headland, with various sub-spurs offering views across Smuggler Cove to Neahkahnie Mountain and Manzanita also north to the other points of the cape. From the spur, the main trail rises and makes a traverse. Then make two short switchbacks down to the remnants of a paved trail. You will begin to encounter more people in this area. A spur leads right for a nice view of the upper tier of Blumenthal Falls. The lower tier pours directly into Smugglers Cove. Cross Blumenthal Creek, head up, and then make a traverse to cross two more footbridges. Cross another stream, and rise past one of the biggest cedar stumps you will ever see. The trail drops to cross Kerwin Creek and then rises on a very muddy tread to a junction.
Here, go right for Short Sand Beach (Left leads to the Cape Falcon Trailhead). Pass a viewpoint and wind down to a picnic area. From here, head down to Short Sand Beach. This is a crowded spot in good weather. When the tide is in, only cobbles are exposed but at any time, the picturesque setting of Smugglers Cove is worth a dally. Blumenthal Falls pours down on the bay's north side from Cape Falcon's south headland and legions of surfers may be waiting out in the waves.
For the car shuttle or the loop, head back past the restrooms, go right and cross a footbridge over Short Sand Creek. The wide trail rises along the south side of Short Sand Creek and passes two junctions in the vicinity of the former campground (Overnight camping is no longer permitted because of the danger of falling trees). The path then heads under Highway 101 and reaches restrooms at a parking area. Go left here and head long the creek before recrossing it on a footbridge into a day use area next to the highway.
Maps
Fees, Regulations, etc.
- No fees
- Dogs on leash.
Trip Reports
- Search Trip Reports for Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach Hike
- Arch Cape to Cape Falcon in Oswald SP
- Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach, my 16 mile day.
- Oregon Coast Trail: Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach
Related Discussions / Q&A
- Search Trail Q&A for Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach Hike
Guidebooks that cover this hike
- Exploring the Oregon Coast Trail by Connie Soper
- 50 Hiking Trails: Portland and Northwest Oregon by Don & Roberta Lowe
- Trips & Trails: Oregon by William L. Sullivan
- Oregon Coast Hikes by Paul M. Williams
- 100 Hikes/Travel Guide: Oregon Coast and the Coast Range by William L. Sullivan
- A Walking Guide to Oregon's Ancient Forests by Wendell Wood
- Oregon Campgrounds Hiking Guide by Rhonda & George Ostertag
- The Oregon Coast Trail Guide by Jon Kenneke (eBook)
- Oregon Coast Trail: Hiking Inn to Inn by Jack D. Remington
- A Hiker's Guide to the Oregon Coast Trail by David E.M. Bucy & Mary C. McCauley
- Oregon's Best Coastal Beaches by Dick Trout
- Fire, Faults, and Floods: A Road & Trail Guide Exploring the Origins of the Columbia River Basin by Marge & Ted Mueller
- Oregon State Parks: A Complete Recreation Guide by Jan Bannan
More Links
- Oswald West State Park (Oregon State Parks)
- Oregon Coast Trail Maps (Oregon Parks and Recreation Department: State Parks)
- Oregon Coast Trail (Wikipedia)
Contributors
- bobcat (creator)