Multnomah Falls Summit Fail- Mountaineering skills??

[Bosterson]

Forestkeeper asked for advice on mountaineering skills so I offered up a tid bit of an opinion. If the OP is insisting on figuring this out then yeah lets carry on the conversation of proper skills but he really should go with someone experienced to learn first hand from rather than try to compile some skills and tips in a forum thread....

Well, realistically he is not actually asking about "mountaineering" because Multnomah Falls is not a "mountain," and will never have mountain-like conditions. (Low altitude, too many tree anchors for any real avi danger, paved trail with switchbacks, etc.) Really, his question was about how to walk across snow, which is something that comes up here periodically. I think self-belay is straight forward enough that no expert tutelage is needed (jam ice axe spike into the snow, use the axe for balance as you take two steps, pull it out and jam it in again farther along, repeat...). I doubt that would really be necessary on the paved switchbacks, even if there was a snowbank covering the trail, so realistically I think the best answer is just to practice balance and knowing how to gauge the stability of snow steps. (People here also love Microspikes, but it's important to know their strengths and weaknesses - in the end, they're not crampons.) If he doesn't feel comfortable at first, then maybe start out with the ice axe, but after some practice walking on snow I would presume he'll find he doesn't need it.

[Koda]

Well, realistically he is not actually asking about "mountaineering" because Multnomah Falls is not a "mountain," and will never have mountain-like conditions.

I think in some cases the term "mountaineering" is relative, and not necessarily limited to just high altitude objectives. If he can self belay with just an axe, thats still a mountaineering skillset. I agree that mostly likely an axe is probably all thats needed, although conditions are once again changing rapidly as we type...

[Don Nelsen]

I've hiked that trail many times in difficult conditions and can heartily recommend an ice axe. It is all I've ever needed in addition to either crampons or snow shoes depending on how hard/soft or icy the surface is. Here are a few photos from a trip with my daughter on Jan 3rd, 2009.

Approaching the switchbacks just past the overhang: I think Suz said something like "Dad, what now?" I think I said something like, "here's an ice axe, have fun!":


She did:


On that particular trip, fallen trees made the going much more difficult than usual:


All the photos are here:
http://www.fototime.com/users/donnelsen ... rd,%202009

[Lurch]

There are definitely safe and unsafe ways to use an ice axe though. I'm hesitant to recommend it as a 'here this'll work!' kind of tool. I've seen new people attempt to self arrest and fall on their axe backward, leaving a spike in their shoulder instead of the ice.. It's common sense, but takes training and practice to make instinctual and correct.

This is one of those conditions that doesn't clearly fit into any particular category. Not enough snow to be treated like a more technical alpine crossing, but too much to really call it a dirt crossing.

There would definitely be safe possible ways to do it, doing it solo, and with little or unknown equipment is a different challenge

[Don Nelsen]

There are definitely safe and unsafe ways to use an ice axe though. I'm hesitant to recommend it as a 'here this'll work!' kind of tool. I've seen new people attempt to self arrest and fall on their axe backward, leaving a spike in their shoulder instead of the ice.. It's common sense, but takes training and practice to make instinctual and correct.

This is one of those conditions that doesn't clearly fit into any particular category. Not enough snow to be treated like a more technical alpine crossing, but too much to really call it a dirt crossing.

There would definitely be safe possible ways to do it, doing it solo, and with little or unknown equipment is a different challenge

Good comment Jake,

I should add that Suz knew ice axe use and safety before hand. I didn't just hand it to her without previous instruction. I was trying for a little humor.

dn

[Lurch]

That wasn't in reply to your post specifically! Just something I was thinking about shortly after I made my first reply

[Bosterson]

I should add that Suz knew ice axe use and safety before hand. I didn't just hand it to her without previous instruction.

I dunno Don, she clearly is swinging her axe piolet traction style, but backwards, with the pick up (unless she's chopping steps in that soft snow?), rather than holding it in a self-belay or self-arrest grip and plunging it.

Just teasing. But to be clear about what I was saying about ice axes for sidehilling on a trail, you all are getting a bit hung up on self-arresting, which is indeed harder to do without practice or training. But additionally, "self arresting" on hard snow on a slope peppered with trees like around the Multnomah switchbacks likely wouldn't work anyway - either the axe wouldn't bite or you'd run out of snow or hit a tree before you could stop yourself. My point was to use self-belay, meaning plunging the axe itself to create a solid handhold for balance while you walk, or as something to hold onto if you were to slip, precluding a fall in the first place.

[Don Nelsen]

Just teasing. But to be clear about what I was saying about ice axes for sidehilling on a trail, you all are getting a bit hung up on self-arresting, which is indeed harder to do without practice or training. But additionally, "self arresting" on hard snow on a slope peppered with trees like around the Multnomah switchbacks likely wouldn't work anyway - either the axe wouldn't bite or you'd run out of snow or hit a tree before you could stop yourself. My point was to use self-belay, meaning plunging the axe itself to create a solid handhold for balance while you walk, or as something to hold onto if you were to slip, precluding a fall in the first place.

The snow/ice mess we had to deal with was really soft that day and we had to do a lot of step chopping so that's probably what was going on in that photo.

Agree with you on how hard it is to successfully self arrest! Practice or not, you have only a split second to react. I've practiced a lot and still can't do it every time. Fortunately, I've never slipped in a potentially fatal spot and had to self arrest.

Typically, what I've seen in that area is rock hard snow that requires crampons and an ice axe to get the job done. It's been years since I was able to get in there before a thaw. I'll have to upload a video I took on Dec. of '85 when it was about 10 degrees and the canyon was in a truly epic condition.

dn

[Webfoot]

I'll have to upload a video I took on Dec. of '85 when it was about 10 degrees and the canyon was in a truly epic condition.

I for one would love to see that.

[kepPNW]

All this talk of slippery trails seems to have caught someone's attention.

They just closed the trail up Multnomah Falls.

Started a new thread, rather than hijack this one: http://www.oregonhikers.org/forum/viewt ... =7&t=24881