I first visited Glacier National Park back in the mid-70’s but, after that, it never seemed to win the vacation contest against yet another trip to the Sierras, North Cascades, Yellowstone, etc. We “re-discovered” Glacier three years ago, realized what we’d been missing, have now been there three years in a row, and have only scratched the surface of its hiking and backpacking possibilities. We learned that the week prior to Labor day is past the peak of the tourist season, so accommodations and trails are less crowded and the weather is (usually) good. This year we got to the park via the overnight Amtrak service direct from Portland – much better and safer than driving 1200 miles RT from Portland (and about the same cost given gas at $3/gallon). We were at Many Glacier again this year since it is at or near several trailheads. There is also a shuttle from there to the free shuttle service that operates within the park and allows you to do several long loop trips as dayhikes.
Sunday 8/29
We left Portland at 4:45pm on Saturday and arrived in Whitefish at 7:00am. After picking up a car and some supplies there, we headed over the Going-to-the-Sun Highway to Many Glacier on the east side of the park. This year we played tag with the weather all week, starting with a light blizzard at Logan Pass.
We took a boat trip on Lake Josephine and were rewarded by seeing three grizzly bears foraging on the slopes above the lake. Despite several of the trails we took being posted for bear activity, this was our best and only close sighting of bears the whole week. By nightfall, the atmosphere was starting to clear and we were treated to a kaleidoscopic sunset over Swiftcurrent Lake.
Monday 8/30
Overnight, all was forgiven meteorologically and the day dawned bright and clear.
We decided to do an out-and-back from Many Glacier to Cracker Lake (12 mi RT, 1800’). The first 1.5 mi of the trail was a horsey mess but all was forgiven once we climbed into Cracker Creek Canyon and the views opened up.
Cracker Lake is fed by the remnants of the Siyeh Glacier (it is now predicted that all live glaciers in the park will be gone by 2020), so it is colored milky turquoise by glacial flour.
After lunch at the lake, we headed back, only to find that the weather was turning again.
We made it back to the hotel bar just as the rain really got started.
Tuesday 8/31
The weather calmed down a bit overnight but it was still cloudy and cold when we decided to hike to Ptarmigan Tunnel (10 mi RT, 2400’). The trail climbs gradually at first from Many Glacier to Ptarmigan Falls, then starts climbing toward the tunnel.
Along the way, we saw our first moose of the day (we’d see a bull moose later), calmly munching through the foliage near the trail.
The trail climbs the headwall of Ptarmigan Creek canyon in three sweeping switchbacks,
to arrive at the tunnel.
Why a tunnel (built in 1931 as a CCC project) is necessary wasn’t clear until we saw the sheer cliffs on the other side.
The arrow marks the tunnel’s mouth and the start of the trail that has been blasted through the cliff face down to Elizabeth Lake,
in the valley below.
On our way back to Many Glacier, the weather once again closed in,
and we just barely reached the bar ahead on a major storm.
Thursday 9/2
The wind howled and the rain poured for much of Wednesday, so we passed the day with a road trip to East Glacier and Browning. The weather cleared completely overnight, allowing us to hike Dawson Pass (6.8 mi (using the boat), 2900’) from Two Medicine Lake. We took the boat across the lake,
and then hiked up into the Bighorn Basin.
As we climbed higher, we got a good view down toward Two Medicine Lake,
and toward Rising Wolf Mountain.
The panorama from the pass itself (at 7598’) was nothing short of spectacular – it reminded me of vistas I’d experienced at much higher altitudes in the Andes: toward Lone Walker Mountain,
Mount Philips,
the Nyack Creek valley (in which there are no established trails!),
and Mount Morgan.
We stopped above the pass for lunch with a mountain view.
After that it was back to the boat – with a stop at No Name Lake – then to the car and back to Many Glacier.
Friday 9/3
This was our last day for hiking (sob!), so we decided to do a popular but wildly visual loop on the Highline Trail from Logan Pass, along the Garden Wall to Glacier Chalet, then down to the highway – returning to Logan Pass via the free shuttle (11.6 mi, 800’). This was our most crowded hiking day – I think we saw 2 dozen people on the trail (not like Angels Rest on a sunny Saturday afternoon!). The weather was absolutely perfect for this hike - compare this view of Logan Pass and Mount Oberlin with what we saw the previous Sunday.
This section of the Highline Trail starts at Logan Pass with a traverse of some cliffs,
then opens out into a traverse of the upper slopes of the McDonald Creek valley,
with views toward Mounts Oberlin, Clements, and Cannon,
Mounts Reynolds and Oberlin,
and west toward Heavens Peak and Mount Vaught.
Along the way we saw bighorn sheep right next to the trail,
and an iconic marmot right on the trail.
We reached Glacier Park Chalet – built early in the last century and, thanks to a renovation in 1995, still offering overnight accommodations – in time for lunch.
We had lunch with a view.
After that, it was down the Granite Park Trail,
to the Going-to-the-Sun Highway and the shuttle back to Logan Pass.
Saturday 9/4
We checked out, had breakfast at the Izaak Walton Inn in Essex (with train accessible XC skiing in the winter), then spent the day hanging out in Kalispell and Whitefish before catching the train back to Portland in the evening. We were home by lunchtime Sunday. OK, no more gushing about the wonder and beauty of Glacier National Park. But, for Portlanders, GNP is almost a “local” destination, certainly worthy of at least one visit.
Glacier National Park 2010
- Splintercat
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Re: Glacier National Park 2010
GORGEOUS photos, Van! Wow! The dusting of snow really brings out the geology, too -- great report!
BTW, the tunnel/blasted trail section gives Eagle Creek a run for its money..!
Thanks for posting!
-Tom
BTW, the tunnel/blasted trail section gives Eagle Creek a run for its money..!
Thanks for posting!
-Tom
Re: Glacier National Park 2010
Spectacular!!!! I had a dream like that once
Shoe Shine Boy Has Left The Building!
Re: Glacier National Park 2010
Van, wonderful photos and travel log. It brings back so many great memories of hiking in Glacier. For 6-7 years a group of us from Portland joined a group from Montana and hiked through out the park. Years went by the group continued and eventually started hiking in other states, still staying together as a group and also adding on new hikers. I joined them last year at Lake Tahoe, and this year in the Olympic Forest. Fine times, good fun and laughs and fabulous photos. thanks to this site, we had some good ideas as to hiking options.
This next summer the vote is the Columbia River Gorge and Mt. Hood area. We are in charge of hikes, another couple in charge of lodging (will need some advice for cabins for 2-4-6) and others for dining. Great group of hikers and we are looking forward to showing off our marvelous area. It all started at Glacier!! thanks for sharing !!
This next summer the vote is the Columbia River Gorge and Mt. Hood area. We are in charge of hikes, another couple in charge of lodging (will need some advice for cabins for 2-4-6) and others for dining. Great group of hikers and we are looking forward to showing off our marvelous area. It all started at Glacier!! thanks for sharing !!
Re: Glacier National Park 2010
Impressive photos! These mountains with fresh snow look beautiful. Hard to believe it was still end of August. Been once in Glacier NP and really miss it!
Re: Glacier National Park 2010
What are the odds....
My wife and I just returned from Glacier yesterday! We stayed at Many Glacier Hotel on Tues, Wed, and Thursday night. We spent Friday night at Lake McDonald Lodge. No words to describe the beauty there, simply stunning. We hiked to Grinnell Lake and around Swiftcurrent Lake, and also hiked to Hidden Lake amongst the throngs of tourists at Logan Pass. Wanted to go to Iceberg Lake, but the bear closure sent us to Grinnell instead.
Great photos of a great place.
Here's one from our Olympus....
My wife and I just returned from Glacier yesterday! We stayed at Many Glacier Hotel on Tues, Wed, and Thursday night. We spent Friday night at Lake McDonald Lodge. No words to describe the beauty there, simply stunning. We hiked to Grinnell Lake and around Swiftcurrent Lake, and also hiked to Hidden Lake amongst the throngs of tourists at Logan Pass. Wanted to go to Iceberg Lake, but the bear closure sent us to Grinnell instead.
Great photos of a great place.
Here's one from our Olympus....
"Going to the mountains is going home."
— John Muir
— John Muir
- roadtripmom
- Posts: 304
- Joined: March 3rd, 2010, 9:20 pm
- Location: Vancouver, WA
Re: Glacier National Park 2010
You are so so lucky. I had a GNP vacation planned this summer, but it fell through. ( my other half got deployed to the Gulf). I cannot wait to go next year. Thank you for the wonderful photos and report. You made my day !
Filling my bucket, one hike at a time.
Amanda
Amanda
- AlexanderSupertramp
- Posts: 1447
- Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:02 pm
Re: Glacier National Park 2010
Sweet sassy molassy, those are some amazing pics!
Re: Glacier National Park 2010
We probably walked right by you two in the lobby...kelkev wrote:What are the odds....
My wife and I just returned from Glacier yesterday! We stayed at Many Glacier Hotel on Tues, Wed, and Thursday night. We spent Friday night at Lake McDonald Lodge. No words to describe the beauty there, simply stunning. We hiked to Grinnell Lake and around Swiftcurrent Lake, and also hiked to Hidden Lake amongst the throngs of tourists at Logan Pass. Wanted to go to Iceberg Lake, but the bear closure sent us to Grinnell instead.
We were hiking to Ptarmigan Tunnel, past the Iceberg Lake trail junction, just as they closed Iceberg Lake due to bear (mom + cubs) activity. Our level of "bearanoia" (reasonable fear that a bear is lurking just off the trail) went way up at that point...
For us, it was one of the best vacations we've had in a while.