I embarked upon a multi-day camping trip to the east little realizing it would be prematurely terminated. My first stop was at Cottonwood Canyon, Oregon’s second largest state park, where I drove Starvation Lane out to a landing on the John Day River (I had seen this as an opportunity last year, when I investigated the Hay Creek Canyon section of the park right across the river). The road, although designated as “primitive”, seems to have been recently upgraded to all-weather gravel. On the hairpin bends going down the canyon slopes, a couple of relics have been left as eye candy. A deer and a pair of chukars emerged from the shade of the first of these as I checked it out.
I took a farm track leading south. Unfortunately the cheatgrass, an invasive Eurasian species that donates the russet blush to these hills, was in full flower, and dozens of seed spikelets began insinuating themselves into my boots and socks. The compensation was an almost overwhelming sweet perfume from a few Russian olives (also an invasive), which were in full bloom. Rusting farm equipment protruded from the barley fields, which are now self-seeding. I arrived at the Coy Place: I’ll call it that after George W. Coy, the first farmer here in 1883 – I don’t know who left the old Chevy, the camper turned chicken coop, or the collapsed shed.
I continued on to the gate marking the beginning of a private inholding within the park (I’ll call this plot Gibson’s after the first homesteader).
From here. I scrambled 880 feet up the slope above a dry waterfall to the loess plateau above the canyon, gathering cheatgrass stickers all the way. Then I ambled across the sagebrush grassland, getting views of windmills and Mt. Adams one way and the wheat fields of Gilliam County on the other. Above the mouth of Hay Creek, I made the steep descent to my car.
By now temperatures were 100 degrees at the bottom of the canyon, so I drove to the Lone Tree Campground and bagged a site ($10; designated as “primitive”, but it was luxury to me: clean toilets, a shaded picnic table, fresh drinking water, a windbreak for the tent). I spent a few hours relaxing in the heat of the day, reading, picking the cheatgrass spikes out of my socks, and observing the line of bighorn sheep strung out against the skyline on the Gooseneck Ridge.
At about 5:30, when temperatures were down to 95, I decided to wander along the Hard Stone Trail, a flat hike using a farm road heading north from the highway bridge. Soon into the hike, I scrambled up the slope to get a squint at a blooming thistle. Stepping back down to the road, my foot turned in my boot, I heard a distinct SNAP as I came crashing down, and I found myself writhing in agony on the Hard Stone. After several minutes of whimpers alternating with curses, I gingerly tested my left ankle, and then stood up. The pain was rather exquisite, but I decided to test it a few paces. My remedy in such situations is to “use it” rather than let it seize up (If something goes SNAP, then it should snap back again at some point was my reasoning), so I broke out a trekking pole for support and continued on the hike.
I passed some low stone walls, probably the remains of a sheep fold, in a grove of hackberry trees, rounded the sharp bend at Big Eddy, and limped out to the tip of the bend at river mile 42. Then I had to hike all the way back again: a total of 4 ½ miles in and out on a rapidly swelling ankle. I staggered around my camp site that evening and retired early. Things felt a little better in the morning, but knew I couldn’t hike any more, so drove home to find my foot had turned, somewhat alarmingly, into a giant blue and purple club. We put it up and applied lots of ice, found an X-ray wasn’t necessary, and, three days later, everything is almost back to normal.
Cottonwood Canyon: Starvation Bend and Hard Stone Trail 5-15-18
- retired jerry
- Posts: 14398
- Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:03 pm
Re: Cottonwood Canyon: Starvation Bend and Hard Stone Trail 5-15-18
I did that a couple months ago. I suggest that's a better time - not so hot
I did MacDonald Lane a bit North of Starvation Lane. I was looking for the Oregon Trail which I found a bit of, but not worth the effort.
Thanks for putting all that in the Field Guide, that was helpful.
I did MacDonald Lane a bit North of Starvation Lane. I was looking for the Oregon Trail which I found a bit of, but not worth the effort.
Thanks for putting all that in the Field Guide, that was helpful.
- BurnsideBob
- Posts: 534
- Joined: May 6th, 2014, 3:15 pm
- Location: Mount Angel, Oregon
Re: Cottonwood Canyon: Starvation Bend and Hard Stone Trail 5-15-18
Thanks, Bobcat, for the virtual tour of Cottonwood. I've long been curious about this State Park and now I know to go in early April!
I keep making protein shakes but they always turn out like margaritas.
- retired jerry
- Posts: 14398
- Joined: May 28th, 2008, 10:03 pm
Re: Cottonwood Canyon: Starvation Bend and Hard Stone Trail 5-15-18
I'd argue December to February is better. Or March. You have to look at weather reports though to make sure it's not too cold or snowy.
This is even better than the Deschutes River in the winter wet season if you want to avoid rain. It does rain there a little.
It can be very windy.
This is even better than the Deschutes River in the winter wet season if you want to avoid rain. It does rain there a little.
It can be very windy.