Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passes

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RobinB
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Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passes

Post by RobinB » November 5th, 2017, 3:20 pm

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Opening picture: looking up to Grey Wolf Pass, from a small tarn in Upper Grey Wolf Basin, Olympic National Park.

Every year, my dad and I celebrate his birthday, and also sort of cap off the summer backpacking season, with a hike: last year was Enchanted Valley, the year before that Three Sisters, the year before that the Dungeness River and Constance Pass... It's always a little bit of a gamble with weather, but we absolutely lucked out this year, for four days and three nights in the heart of Olympic National Park, at the headwaters of the main for Dosewallips, with side trips up several of the surrounding passes.

I really love hiking in the autumn: everything feels particularly precious, with the onset of winter, as it happened, less than a week away.


Thursday, October 26

We left Portland ungodly early - around four - and arrived at the Dosewallips Road washout just after sunrise, a little before eight. The road is now washed out out a mile and a half earlier than it used to be, which means it's now seven miles up the road to the old Ranger Station and trailhead, but we brought bikes, and it passed quickly and pleasantly, with only a few areas where walking was necessary.

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The eleven or so miles from the trailhead to Bear Camp, where we planned to spend the weekend, was all through mellow, pleasant forest, on flat, easy trail. Even sleep-deprived, we made easy miles.

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We reached the (posh!) Bear Camp Shelter just after a late lunch, and setup for the weekend. There are three bunks still intact under the roof, with room for a couple more on the floor if need be. There are also of course very nice tent spots nearby, but we setup inside, then started in on a long evening of eating and drinking and cribbage.

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Friday, October 27

The night was cold, and we woke up to a thick frost. But as soon as the sun hit, things melted, and the morning transformed into something almost like summer.

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There are several obvious dayhikes from Bear Camp: up Hayden Pass, or Lost and Cameron, or back a bit to Grey Wolf. We decided on the latter two, largely because the slopes we'd be climbing were mostly south-facing, and so had the best possibility of being snow free.

First, Lost and Cameron Passes. From camp, we walked up a couple miles to Dose Meadows, then cut north on the "Primitive Trail" up to Lost Pass. The thing is steep - around 1000' in a mile - but easy to follow, and surprisingly pleasant. I'd been there this summer, on my long-ish ramble through the park, but it's totally different in fall: blue lupine replaced by bright red, and biting flies replaced by peace.

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From the pass, the trail continues north, under Lost Peak, and across the headwaters of the Lost River. I really love it up there.

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I guess there are lakes in the upper basin here. A trip for another day...

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The climb out of the basin, to Cameron Pass, was steeper than I remembered - nearly as steep as the one up Lost - but it went quickly too, and soon we were staring at views all around: down Cameron Creek and over the Strait at Baker; west, over the Elwha to Olympus; south over the Sentinels to Mt. Anderson; and east to Rainier.

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We climbed a small prominence to the west, and had lunch near the top, shifting every few minutes for new views.

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The descent back to camp was quick, easy, and beautiful, though perhaps a bit too fast: I would have gladly spent the whole trip up there, just exploring.

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Saturday, October 28

The next morning, we backtracked a couple miles to the Grey Wolf Trail, then followed that a few more miles up to Grey Wolf Pass. Compared to Lost and Cameron, the south side of Grey Wolf is exceedingly gentle, with interestingly varied views back down the Dosewallips grand valley, and up toward Hayden Pass.

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There was a little steep snow on the north side of Grey Wolf Pass, but nothing all that bad, and we continued on down into Upper Grey Wolf Basin, with a vague idea of heading off trail to Cedar Pass, to look down at Cedar Lake, which neither of us had ever seen before.

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We'd both been a little unsure about how to get up to Cedar Pass, but the way ended up being easy: once you reach the upper basin, veer east, along the obvious headwall, and eventually you'll come to a a small lake, surrounded by trails and a couple campsites. From there, an unofficial bootpath leaves the north side, sidehilling up to the pass.

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The boot trail passes through several small basins and a few unexpected lakes. It unexpectedly, overwhelmingly beautiful.

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Climbing up toward the pass, the views just kept getting grander. It was difficult not to take the same picture a thousand times. So, well... I did take the same picture a thousand times.

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Cedar Pass itself is a tiny notch in a ridge that runs north from Grey Wolf, with barely enough space to bivy. But man, it was gorgeous up there, with views west over the Grey Wolf to The Needles, and east to Cedar Lake.

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We took a short Snickers break, then headed back down, through the lakes and meadows and snow.

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Heading down the south side of Grey Wolf Pass, the light started its descent to golden hour, and the peaks to the east - Deception, Mystery, Little Mystery, maybe even Hal Foss - lit up.

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Sunday, October 29

The night was cold again - maybe the coldest we had - particularly as we'd agreed to wake up early, to get a jump on the hike / bike / drive out. Getting out of my quilt was rough. But soon enough we were walking in the morning sun, and even my light coat was a bit too much.

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We made it to the old ranger station just in time for lunch, then coasted down the old road, toward home.

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retired jerry
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Re: Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passe

Post by retired jerry » November 5th, 2017, 3:36 pm

That looks really nice. I've been about 10 miles up Dosewalips, another trip is in order further up.

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RobinB
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Re: Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passe

Post by RobinB » November 5th, 2017, 7:29 pm

retired jerry wrote:That looks really nice. I've been about 10 miles up Dosewalips, another trip is in order further up.
Thanks, yea: if you've been 10 miles up, you must have been pretty close to Bear Camp? But, as apparently with a lot of drainages in the Olympics, the further up you go, the prettier it seems to get. Wood says there's a camp halfway up Hayden Pass, where I'd really like to try to stay someday. And the Thousand Acre Meadow just sounds incredible.

Ever been up the West Fork?

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retired jerry
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Re: Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passe

Post by retired jerry » November 5th, 2017, 7:59 pm

I went up West Fork most of the way to Anderson Pass. It was raining and snowing so I lost some of my ambition.

I've also been up Enchanted Valley most of the way to Anderson Pass from the other direction. And Obstruction Point to Grand Valley and most of the way to Dosewalips from that direction. I think there is a lifetime of possibilities up there.

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RobinB
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Re: Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passe

Post by RobinB » November 5th, 2017, 8:41 pm

retired jerry wrote:I've also been up Enchanted Valley most of the way to Anderson Pass from the other direction. And Obstruction Point to Grand Valley and most of the way to Dosewalips from that direction. I think there is a lifetime of possibilities up there.
I couldn't agree more. I've been spending nights looking at maps, planning future routes...

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drm
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Re: Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passe

Post by drm » November 6th, 2017, 8:00 am

I almost went there this year but was convinced to visit Cameron/Lost from the north via Grand Valley instead. So that means I now need to go up Dosewallips and focus on grey Wolf! Maybe a camp at one of those tarns on the way to Cedar Pass would be in order.

Aimless
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Re: Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passe

Post by Aimless » November 6th, 2017, 11:05 am

It looks like you had the most glorious possible weather and a magnificent setting with the fall colors abundant. I am envious!

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sheilakpdx
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Re: Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passe

Post by sheilakpdx » November 6th, 2017, 5:50 pm

Absolutely beautiful pictures and what weather! But, may I add, the best part is the birthday tradition - for both of you.

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RobinB
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Re: Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passe

Post by RobinB » November 7th, 2017, 4:57 pm

Thanks, all!
drm wrote:Maybe a camp at one of those tarns on the way to Cedar Pass would be in order.
It'd be rough in a storm, but there were several semi-developed sites up there that looked very, very tempting.

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drm
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Re: Dosewallips to Lost, Cameron, Grey Wolf, and Cedar Passe

Post by drm » November 8th, 2017, 10:31 am

I don't backpack in storms. :roll:

I recently saw a report where a fire ecologist was reported to have said that they wished folks could think of a smoky August like they do a soggy November - just the way it is up here. Yikes. If so, the Olympics are the best escape in the region - may be visiting there a lot more.

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