It is good to be home at sea level. Yesterday I swam on Stone Lagoon and felt like a machine in the warmer water and back at sea level!
First, I want to explain how this "backpack" was different. Once we obtained our wilderness permit we signed up for "meals only" on the High Sierra Loop. Most people hike from hut to hut carrying their personal gear only. We still carried our camping gear (a tent we never used preferring the stars overhead!) and paid for and enjoyed dinner and breakfast served in canvas tents. We sat family style with other hikers. I, in particular struggled with the eating "inside" style but am happy to have avoided the meal planning, packing and prep. And, carrying food for 11 days is not in my body anymore. And Gary was still in recovery mode from a near-hospital visit with acute bronchitis earlier in the summer. In retrospect, this is probably the only significant backpack trip he could of pulled off this year, so how fortuitous that it was in the works. In addition, Gary had the brilliant idea of giving us a second day at each camp to explore without our full packs (adding an additional 20-25 miles to our hiking total). We all much enjoyed that option and were the envy of everyone who was packing and hurrying onto the next hut. I got to swim lots with that system, we explored and relaxed much more. And Gary said, "Let's see who will go with us”. Michael Morris, a long time friend, but with whom we had never done anything quite like this....joined us. He was a perfect match, enthusiastic about it all, great at finding perfect camp spots, brought binoculars and enthusiastically and knowledgeably added to Gary's bird list, enjoyed the stars and laughed with us lots. Our long time friend, Chris Bernard tagged onto us after spending three nights in huts with a friend. Seeing her laughing with delight in the waterfalls was a joy.
Gary and I spent three days acclimating out of Tuolumne Meadows. Here we took the Snow Creek Trail to Mt. Watkins, a large dome overlooking Half Dome, Yosemite Valley and peering at the exfoliating sides of Clouds Rest.
We had a close view of a bear, that never saw us! Gary was stung by something that swelled his left knee up big time. Some lucky "leftover" prescription I had thrown in at the last minute just in case and texting with our personal nurse/daughter, Kelsey saved the trip.
Day #1 Tuolumne Meadows to Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp
A friendly young employee, Gary had befriended at Tuolumne Meadows High Sierra Camp, showed us a short cut and carried Gary's pack the first day in to Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp.
Glen Aulin is on the Tuolumne River at the confluence Conness Creek and coinciding with the Pacific Crest Trail. I assume this is their reason they don't feed backpackers. We had to settle for our packed in salami and crackers for these couple of days. We swam, (actually just me! Gary soaked his still swollen leg) explored waterfalls and played with rounded rocks.
In the Tuolumne River gorge, Michael was stung three times by territorial Yellow Jackets. His reaction was minor. Had that been Gary…..
Gary found Slender Lupine, a rare Sierra plant.
Day#3 Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp to May Lake High Sierra Camp:
It was all uphill with a false lake teaser. It was Gary's first day with his pack on. It was tough. We had a long lunch break at Polly Dome Lakes. May Lake was lovely. We enjoyed our first prepared meals. Michael and I ate with a bit too much enthusiasm. We later learned to slow down and temper ourselves, despite huge amounts of food! Camping was a bit crowded here as it is a relatively short hike in from a different trail head just off Hwy 120. But the lake was lovely and the granite filled scenery spectacular. Both sunset and sunrise were grandiose from here.
For our "zero day" we climbed Mt. Hoffman. (Gary and I had climbed it just before we were married almost 31 years ago!)
Afterwards I swam the circumference of May Lake. Yes, it is cold, but the sunshine was warm.
Day #5 May Lake High Sierra Camp to Sunrise High Sierra Camp:
Down to Tenaya Lake
And back uphill for a lovely lunch view down the valley
And onto Long Meadow
This provided a favorite campsite with meadow filled views. Coyotes entertained and we had much discussion over a possible Great Gray Owl. The stars were brilliant here.
On our “rest day” we went cross country to lovely Mildred Lake where we swam.
This was a favorite day of mine….flowers, cross country, swimming….
Day #7 Sunrise High Sierra Camp to Merced Lake High Sierra Camp, via Echo Valley:
Gary had researched a cross-country route (Mansfield’s Pass) that included steep slabs. He was anxious about how it would actually play out, with responsibility on his shoulders, but it went well!
Our fearless leader!
And Gary found much sought after Bolander’s wood reed (Cinna bolanderi, a rare grass last reported from Echo Valley in 1934!)
We swam in one of our favorite swimming holes on the Merced River.
Merced Lake was the lowest elevation we camped (7,500’).
Merced Lake is lined with sedges and offered Michael’s first experience with our family “Kelsey Moon” (How the Moon was when Kelsey was born and re-celebrated every month!). Here we enjoyed our favorite food, explored the waterfalls and swam in Washburn Lake.
Here is Chris thanking the mules that brought in our food (and carried some of her gear up Vogelsang Pass!)
Day #9 Merced Lake High Sierra Camp to Vogelsang High Sierra Camp (our highest camp 11,000’)
I loved it up high, rocks, flowers, views and stars!!!!
The nights were cold and frost filled, the food “interesting” and scarce (we shut the season down here). We explored Townsley Lake with its lovely wind driven alpine landscape.
I did a long cold circumference swim on Vogelsang Lake, one I could of only afforded because of the hot meal provided after.
Sunsets glowed. Here is Fletcher Peak with alpine glow.
Day #11 Vogelsang High Sierra Camp to Tuolumne Meadows High Sierra Camp
We hiked out via lovely Evelyn Lake basin…a favorite of mine.
Lyell Canyon brought back John Muir Trail memories (and relief to our knees after the long descent).
I did a pre-soak before my first shower in 11 days in one last swimming hole on the Tuolumne River.
What a trip! What a crew!
It is a gift that we can still hike and have friends to join us. We cherish the time together, the scenery, the universe we live in……
And a huge thanks to Michael Morris for contributing to the photographs. He did a wonderful job documenting the whole trip on his Flickr page.
Lauren and Gary Lester
McKinleyville, CA
