A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

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VanMarmot
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A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

Post by VanMarmot » October 17th, 2014, 4:41 pm

We spent the last part of September and the first part of October on a rafting / hiking trip on the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon (Lees Ferry to Diamond Creek). Needless to say it was an utterly amazing / awesome trip of a lifetime and I'm not going to even try to put it into words. There was, of course, rafting and lots of big water rapids. But one reason we chose to do a longer trip was to also have time for hiking. Most of our hikes were up slot canyons only accessible from the river but two of them, Tapeats Creek and Deer Creek, are accessible to backpackers (or stunningly fit day hikers) from the North Rim during the summer (NPS Trail Guide). The first few days were spent mainly rafting, running a few rapids, and staring in awe at the 2,000'+ cliffs on all sides.

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This trip was past peak season, so we (mostly) had our pick of campsites and saw few other trips the whole time. Except for the river and the canyon wrens, the quiet was intense.

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Our first hike was up the slot canyon of Clear Creek,

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to the "sideways" waterfall,

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whose clean, cold water was a welcome relief from the 95F air temperature and the grit in the river water. After this hike, we stopped at Phantom Ranch, which is at the junction of the Bright Angel, South Kaibab, and North Kaibab trails and where a steak (brought in by mule train) in the dining room is only $45! (I sprang for one cold beer.)

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There was flash flooding in the upper reaches of the tributary watersheds which eventually worked its way down to give the Colorado the color and consistency of a strong latte.

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About halfway through the trip, we reached Shimuno Creek - another slot canyon,

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with another refreshing waterfall.

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The Elves Chasm is a small canyon and waterfall that is one the "must see" locations for almost all commercial and private trips. Its another small falls but the pool at its base is deep enough to allow for some artful diving.

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Our longest hike was to see Thunder River - where water gushes directly out of the cliff face from a series of caverns that tap a huge aquifer fed by snow melt on the North Rim. This sight can be accessed via trails down from the Rim but we started up from the Colorado with a crossing of Tapeats Creek.

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Then a stiff climb out of the lower canyon,

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some contouring along the abyss,

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and then a traverse into the upper part of the creek.

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The trail mostly follows the creek past some official NPS campsites and a toilet,

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crosses the creek two more times,

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and then begins its final big climb up to Thunder River,

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which stands out as a green spot amongst the red cliffs.

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This was a hot, dry climb and we were glad to spend more than a little time eating lunch in the shade and splashing around in the cold, clear, and drinkable waters of Thunder River. Then it was back down the trail to our camp for the night along the Colorado.

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It's possible to dayhike from Tapeats Creek to Deer Creek but we opted to raft down to Deer Creek Falls and hike up from there.

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You don't realize how big these falls are until you reach the top of them and look down!

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Above the falls, it's evident that Deer Creek is another slot canyon, but not one that you're going to be hiking along.

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Instead the trail contours along above the slot,

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to an area called "The Patio" - beyond which is another NPS campsite and the Tapeats Creek trail.

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We hung out there for awhile until the rumble of distant thunder got us moving back down to the rafts - just in time for a monumental rain storm, with noise and lights. :shock:

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Sitting in a raft in the rain was no fun UNTIL we got to experience the rare sight of 1,000'+ waterfalls pouring off the canyon walls - talk about once in a lifetime stuff!

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An then, within a few hours, all was forgiven, the sun came out, the temperature soared, and we were ready for another hike - National Canyon.

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It didn't look all that deep at first but soon we were well into the ground (the arrow is a person).

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After some twisting and turning, we came to the requisite waterfall and pool and had yet another opportunity to cool off and wash some of the river grit off ourselves.

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Then we strolled back to camp as evening colors descended into the canyon.

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We got in one more slot canyon hike - Mohawk Canyon - before making it through Lava Falls and down to our takeout at Diamond Creek. A 14 day, 225 mile totally fantastic trip! :D :D We got back to Portland just in time for the rainy season to start. :( But as long as our tans from, and memories of, this incredible trip last, we're OK with a little rain.
Last edited by VanMarmot on October 19th, 2014, 6:29 am, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

Post by weathercrazy » October 18th, 2014, 5:00 am

Incredible! Wow...so man amazing places I didn't know about!

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Re: A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

Post by drm » October 18th, 2014, 5:23 am

And I bet the river guides weren't making freeze dried dinners for you.

Many years ago I backpacked down from the south rim on one of the alternate trails (i.e. not Kaibab) over Thanksgiving. There were bits of snow and ice on the rim with temps in the 50s to 60s below. It can be a nice place for a Fall backpack, but traction may be needed up high as it gets later in the season.
Last edited by drm on October 18th, 2014, 3:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

Post by Peder » October 18th, 2014, 7:00 am

You don't realize how big these falls are until you reach the top of them and look down!
Bloody hell, very impressive size! Great report Bruce - this surely must have been an absolutely fantastic trip. I love the pictures.
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Re: A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

Post by raftingdog » October 18th, 2014, 7:03 am

raft guides make it all happen...I always tip $20 per day... they make 16 day wonderful party for all ......... amazing ............. looks like rafts of OARS... did they offer paddle rafts and inflatable kayaks? big rapids are about fear and enjoyment of the suffering of others... I got flipped out big rapid but good results...

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Re: A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

Post by VanMarmot » October 18th, 2014, 7:54 am

drm wrote:And I get the river guides weren't making freeze dried dinners for you.

Many years ago I backpacked down from the south rim on one of the alternate trails (i.e. not Kaibab) over Thanksgiving. There were bits of snow and ice on the rim with temps in the 50s to 60s below. It can be a nice place for a Fall backpack, but traction may be needed up high as it gets later in the season.
The only thing that saved us from "float & bloat" and excessive weight gain were the hikes!

The cooler parts of the year are definitely the best times to hike in the Canyon - summer temperatures are killer (occassionally literally). The trick with Thunder River from the North Rim is doing a Fall trip before the roads up there close but it would be a great backpack if your timing is right.
Last edited by VanMarmot on October 19th, 2014, 6:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

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VanMarmot
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Re: A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

Post by VanMarmot » October 18th, 2014, 8:00 am

raftingdog wrote:raft guides make it all happen...I always tip $20 per day... they make 16 day wonderful party for all ......... amazing ............. looks like rafts of OARS... did they offer paddle rafts and inflatable kayaks? big rapids are about fear and enjoyment of the suffering of others... I got flipped out big rapid but good results...
Some of the rafts are OARS but now there are companies that will rent you an entire outfit (including all the food!) and some of their rafts are yellow too. There was a private trip that flipped in Crystal - no injuries but lots of lost gear - just before we ran it, so we got to see the NPS chopper in action. A little sobering...

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And, yes, the guides got good tips!

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Re: A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

Post by Splintercat » October 18th, 2014, 9:38 am

Thanks, Van! Wonderful report and photos -- haven't been down there in years, so nice to live vicariously!

Tom :)

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Re: A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

Post by UTurn » October 18th, 2014, 7:10 pm

Epic! What a beautiful trip report!

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Re: A Hike Flows Through It (Grand Canyon NP) Sept/Oct 2014

Post by bobcat » October 19th, 2014, 4:23 pm

Enjoyed the photos. Glad you got in some hikes from the river. Those are intriguing slot canyons!

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