Enchantments one-Day Traverse
Posted: August 11th, 2014, 5:08 pm
Steve and I just got back from our Enchantments Traverse, so my words may be a little brief. I know some PDX hikers are heading out there soon, so hopefully this helps.
Conditions: The trail is in great shape, with no snow to cross until leaving the core enchantments, on a short little stretch that may be dicey in less scorching conditions. Smoke is present depending on which way the wind is blowing, but not a huge issue. For us, it was worst ascending Asgaard, and I began to get a bit of a headache. I am a huge baby with altitude sickness, though, so maybe that was it. The smoke made for interesting perspectives on the mountains, setting the larger peaks back and making them look somehow ominous. I wouldn't say it detracted from the hike at all. Asgaard itself is snow free and easy to navigate. Follow the cairns up the left side of the waterfall and you can't go wrong. If you've ever hiked the boulder field on Table Mountain, it's like doing that for two hours with better views.
Side trips: we eyeballed Little Annapurna, which you approach from the snow-free side after passing Isolation Lake. With all the haze we decided to leave it for another day. Instead, we went up Prussik Pass and scrambled up a little knob for better views of that insanely cool peak. Took maybe half an hour or so.
Crowds: We went on a Sunday and you could definitely call this a social hike, although after leaving the core zone I was surprised how few people we encountered. Two rangers asked about our intentions, but were not aggressive or suspicious in any way, probably due to my very small pack. Met these cool badass locals: http://vimeo.com/103136415
Gear: Check the forecast - when it's this hot and dry, you can and should get away with the lightest of packs. We ran into some ultrarunners with not more than their tiny shorts and a hydration belt. I carried a down jacket and emergency shelter, only because I am a nerd. My katadyn filter worked great, but I know a lot of hikers prefer the Sawyer Squeeze now.
Logistics: We arranged a shuttle, but they got the trailhead wrong, so we ended up hitching. Even in the evening, it took less than five minutes to find a couple more than willing to drive us. It was nice not to have the stress of transportation looming over us, but we did rush to meet the shuttle, which never came.
Thoughts: This trail is long. Duh. It's a good intro to the Enchantments, but after the main lakes the trail becomes a difficult slog which dampened my earlier ecstasy. I found myself cursing Snow and Nada lakes for their long, rocky, bouldery rims. It's by no means an easy hike out. Expect up and downs, a variety of terrain, boulder hopping, and lots of searching for cairns. The rebar section is pretty wild, since it appears to be a dramatic dropoff, but in dry conditions we didn't give it a second thought. And the dam between the lakes is completely dry right now, of course.
That's your quick-and-dirty. Would I do this again? No. I had to train for a marathon to even think about doing this as a dayhike, but those of you hikers on here doing 25+ mile days can bang this out. When I go back, it will be up Asgaard and down Asgaard, whether or not I camp I haven't decided. I would like to savor that amazing upper basin, but would be reticent to lug a large pack up Asgaard, and straight up nervous to go down it. But it's doable, I saw it happening and no one fell or was hurt. Happy hiking!
Conditions: The trail is in great shape, with no snow to cross until leaving the core enchantments, on a short little stretch that may be dicey in less scorching conditions. Smoke is present depending on which way the wind is blowing, but not a huge issue. For us, it was worst ascending Asgaard, and I began to get a bit of a headache. I am a huge baby with altitude sickness, though, so maybe that was it. The smoke made for interesting perspectives on the mountains, setting the larger peaks back and making them look somehow ominous. I wouldn't say it detracted from the hike at all. Asgaard itself is snow free and easy to navigate. Follow the cairns up the left side of the waterfall and you can't go wrong. If you've ever hiked the boulder field on Table Mountain, it's like doing that for two hours with better views.
Side trips: we eyeballed Little Annapurna, which you approach from the snow-free side after passing Isolation Lake. With all the haze we decided to leave it for another day. Instead, we went up Prussik Pass and scrambled up a little knob for better views of that insanely cool peak. Took maybe half an hour or so.
Crowds: We went on a Sunday and you could definitely call this a social hike, although after leaving the core zone I was surprised how few people we encountered. Two rangers asked about our intentions, but were not aggressive or suspicious in any way, probably due to my very small pack. Met these cool badass locals: http://vimeo.com/103136415
Gear: Check the forecast - when it's this hot and dry, you can and should get away with the lightest of packs. We ran into some ultrarunners with not more than their tiny shorts and a hydration belt. I carried a down jacket and emergency shelter, only because I am a nerd. My katadyn filter worked great, but I know a lot of hikers prefer the Sawyer Squeeze now.
Logistics: We arranged a shuttle, but they got the trailhead wrong, so we ended up hitching. Even in the evening, it took less than five minutes to find a couple more than willing to drive us. It was nice not to have the stress of transportation looming over us, but we did rush to meet the shuttle, which never came.
Thoughts: This trail is long. Duh. It's a good intro to the Enchantments, but after the main lakes the trail becomes a difficult slog which dampened my earlier ecstasy. I found myself cursing Snow and Nada lakes for their long, rocky, bouldery rims. It's by no means an easy hike out. Expect up and downs, a variety of terrain, boulder hopping, and lots of searching for cairns. The rebar section is pretty wild, since it appears to be a dramatic dropoff, but in dry conditions we didn't give it a second thought. And the dam between the lakes is completely dry right now, of course.
That's your quick-and-dirty. Would I do this again? No. I had to train for a marathon to even think about doing this as a dayhike, but those of you hikers on here doing 25+ mile days can bang this out. When I go back, it will be up Asgaard and down Asgaard, whether or not I camp I haven't decided. I would like to savor that amazing upper basin, but would be reticent to lug a large pack up Asgaard, and straight up nervous to go down it. But it's doable, I saw it happening and no one fell or was hurt. Happy hiking!