I came prepared for the “much worse”, so was very happy and really surprised when the appointed day arrived sunny and dry. Lots of other folks took advantage too: We saw perhaps 300+ on the trail. Not unexpected, of course, since Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the UK, gets about 100,000 hikers/year so 300 is about right for the day. There were runners, folks not dressed properly, folks out of shape gasping and barely making headway and even a dozen or more military guys on top in full gear with packs that must have been 60 or 70 pounds. Mostly though, we saw fit, prepared hikers just having a great time of it. Except for the military, just what you might see on a very busy day on Dog Mountain. (Of course, you would have to multiply Dog by almost 2 times in distance and more than 1 ½ times in elevation gain to equal one Ben Nevis.)
The name Ben Nevis translates from the Scottish Gaelic, Beinn Nibheiss, as venomous or malicious mountain, among other things. Most folks there just call it “The Ben”. The Ben is 4,409’ high and you start at under 50’ elevation, so as like many gorge peaks, you get the whole thing from bottom to top. That’s where the comparisons end, though: Except at the very start along the river for about a quarter mile, no trees. No possibility anywhere of protection from wind or rain. The vegetation, or lack of it, is about what we have here above about 7,000 feet, so, if you get lucky as we did, the views are fantastic in all directions.
11.4 miles RT, 4,500 vertical, <4 hours up, about 3 back down at a very relaxed pace.
A few pics:
The trail starts in a large parking area and crosses the Ben Nevis river on a narrow footbridge. Then follows the riverbank through a sparse forest past a few farm buildings and a scenic B & B. Here is the B & B in full fall foliage:
The trail soon takes a turn across a sheep pasture and starts the relentless climb:
We soon spy the trademark Ben Nevis Inn as we leave the meadows:
The trail was built in 1883 as a route to service the weather observatory on the summit. Some of the paving seems to have survived quite nicely:
A view across Glen Nevis at a commercial forest. The tree line is about 1,000 feet. Above that, trees could probably grow but there is hardly any soil at all in this heavily glaciated realm.
We packed for the worst and by a couple miles up the trail were rapidly shedding most of it. Here is Ardith chugging away: (BTW, she made me take this trip and I had hardly any say in the matter - just to plan the hikes, thank you!!
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Even higher up, some of the trail was really well constructed:
A small lochan near midway was a nice scenic surprise:
It didn't take long to reach the very desolate reaches of the peak. Amazingly stark and this is only about 3,000' elevation in this photo:
Looking more-or-less west at the town of Fort William:
Eventually a mist rolled in as we reached the summit area:
Summit GPS reading. The mist came and went so we had pretty good views. Temperature about 35.
Remains of the summit weather station, abandoned in 1904:
Here is a survival shelter built right at the summit:
On the way back I walked off-trail to view the incredible cliffs on the north face. 2000' and more:
Fall color on the way back:
Scotland is the land of sheep! Even on the Ben Nevis trail:
the map:
-- Don
