I headed into mostly secondary coastal forest of western hemlock, Sitka spruce and western red-cedar, with a number of tall, old growth spruce in some areas. The trail descends on an old logging track shaded by red alders to cross Highway 101, and then winds through more mossy woods, hops Falcon Cove Road, and undulates along before switchbacking up to a high point in a gloomy baby spruce thicket. The path, often rooty and sometimes muddy, drops to the 700-foot cliffs north of Cape Falcon. On a good day, which this one wasn’t particularly, you can see up the coast past Haystack Rock to Tillamook Head. I descended farther to a viewpoint from which you can see the colorful bands of rock, intrusive basalt capped by sandstone, that form Cape Falcon. Later on, I took the spur trail that leads out along the headland to give expansive views south across Smuggler Cove to Neahkanie Mountain and Manzanita. After this, the trail crosses two creeks and passes the largest cedar stump I have ever seen. Heading along above Smuggler Cove, I took the short spur to a view of the upper tier of Blumenthal Falls. The lower tier plunges directly into Smuggler Cove and can be viewed from Short Sand Beach. I headed down to Short Sand Beach, which I caught at the very highest point of the tide, but there were a few slippery, wet cobbles I could dance about on.
Oregon Coast Trail: Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach
Oregon Coast Trail: Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach
This was a Thanksgiving holiday jaunt along a section of the Oregon Coast Trail almost entirely within Oswald West State Park. The northern trailhead begins off E. Shingle Mill Road in Arch Cape. There’s a wooden post by a driveway 0.4 miles off Highway 101, but you have to park on Shingle Mill Road (Don't get stuck!), walk up the driveway and then cross the sturdy suspension bridge that spans Arch Cape Creek.
I headed into mostly secondary coastal forest of western hemlock, Sitka spruce and western red-cedar, with a number of tall, old growth spruce in some areas. The trail descends on an old logging track shaded by red alders to cross Highway 101, and then winds through more mossy woods, hops Falcon Cove Road, and undulates along before switchbacking up to a high point in a gloomy baby spruce thicket. The path, often rooty and sometimes muddy, drops to the 700-foot cliffs north of Cape Falcon. On a good day, which this one wasn’t particularly, you can see up the coast past Haystack Rock to Tillamook Head. I descended farther to a viewpoint from which you can see the colorful bands of rock, intrusive basalt capped by sandstone, that form Cape Falcon. Later on, I took the spur trail that leads out along the headland to give expansive views south across Smuggler Cove to Neahkanie Mountain and Manzanita. After this, the trail crosses two creeks and passes the largest cedar stump I have ever seen. Heading along above Smuggler Cove, I took the short spur to a view of the upper tier of Blumenthal Falls. The lower tier plunges directly into Smuggler Cove and can be viewed from Short Sand Beach. I headed down to Short Sand Beach, which I caught at the very highest point of the tide, but there were a few slippery, wet cobbles I could dance about on.
The trail is in good shape, with minimal blowdown even after last week's storms. I flicked off debris when I could and there is only one older logjam of fallen trees that needs to be circumvented. The return hike to Short Sand Beach from Arch Cape is about 14 miles, 2,750’ total elevation gain. However, I cheated on this one. My wife and I share a car because we both also take public transportation, and she is always grateful if I can get the vehicle back early. I decided to cut some time by heading up to Highway 101, walking up the highway about two miles, and then heading back on the Coast Trail from where it meets the highway. I would never wholeheartedly recommend incorporating a very busy federal highway into one’s commune with Mother Nature, but on this occasion it scored me big brownie points and saved about an hour and a half.
I headed into mostly secondary coastal forest of western hemlock, Sitka spruce and western red-cedar, with a number of tall, old growth spruce in some areas. The trail descends on an old logging track shaded by red alders to cross Highway 101, and then winds through more mossy woods, hops Falcon Cove Road, and undulates along before switchbacking up to a high point in a gloomy baby spruce thicket. The path, often rooty and sometimes muddy, drops to the 700-foot cliffs north of Cape Falcon. On a good day, which this one wasn’t particularly, you can see up the coast past Haystack Rock to Tillamook Head. I descended farther to a viewpoint from which you can see the colorful bands of rock, intrusive basalt capped by sandstone, that form Cape Falcon. Later on, I took the spur trail that leads out along the headland to give expansive views south across Smuggler Cove to Neahkanie Mountain and Manzanita. After this, the trail crosses two creeks and passes the largest cedar stump I have ever seen. Heading along above Smuggler Cove, I took the short spur to a view of the upper tier of Blumenthal Falls. The lower tier plunges directly into Smuggler Cove and can be viewed from Short Sand Beach. I headed down to Short Sand Beach, which I caught at the very highest point of the tide, but there were a few slippery, wet cobbles I could dance about on.
The trail is in good shape, with minimal blowdown even after last week's storms. I flicked off debris when I could and there is only one older logjam of fallen trees that needs to be circumvented. The return hike to Short Sand Beach from Arch Cape is about 14 miles, 2,750’ total elevation gain. However, I cheated on this one. My wife and I share a car because we both also take public transportation, and she is always grateful if I can get the vehicle back early. I decided to cut some time by heading up to Highway 101, walking up the highway about two miles, and then heading back on the Coast Trail from where it meets the highway. I would never wholeheartedly recommend incorporating a very busy federal highway into one’s commune with Mother Nature, but on this occasion it scored me big brownie points and saved about an hour and a half.
Last edited by bobcat on December 15th, 2011, 4:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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peakbagger
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Re: Oregon Coast Trail: Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach
Beautiful pictures! I love the trees you captured in the cliffside woods & cape falcon cliff shot, their structure is incredible & photogenic! This one is on my list next time im in that area 
"Doubly happy, however, is the man to whom lofty mountain tops are within reach."
-John Muir-
-John Muir-
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Thum
Re: Oregon Coast Trail: Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach
Two thums up for the excellent write up and photos bobcat. That stretch is one of my favorites and hardly sees any visitors. Blumenthal Falls is also really special and a great place for some lunch/snacker. thanks for posting a great holiday hike:)
Did you happen to see the Parodice Gardens sign just after you passed the bridge over Arch Cape Creek?
From the gardens, we followed an old trail/abandoned road that leads from the bridge over arch cape creek out to the north side of the tunnel on 101. We kept following it and knew it would hit the road at some point. on the way we found this huge hemlock with a rope swing on it.
Did you happen to see the Parodice Gardens sign just after you passed the bridge over Arch Cape Creek?
From the gardens, we followed an old trail/abandoned road that leads from the bridge over arch cape creek out to the north side of the tunnel on 101. We kept following it and knew it would hit the road at some point. on the way we found this huge hemlock with a rope swing on it.
Re: Oregon Coast Trail: Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach
Thanks for the thums, Thum. Yes, from Arch Cape to Cape Falcon the trail is deserted, but from the Cape to Short Sand it was busy, busy!
As for the Parodice, I guess I missed it even though I passed that spot twice. Maybe I had my face buried in a clump of fungi at that exact spot. I did note that large patch of spurge-laurel (your second picture) - a noxious weed, by the way. Also saw the track leading off to the right that you mention; I think the state park boundary begins right above it. Don't know who owns the property where your pictures were taken.
John
As for the Parodice, I guess I missed it even though I passed that spot twice. Maybe I had my face buried in a clump of fungi at that exact spot. I did note that large patch of spurge-laurel (your second picture) - a noxious weed, by the way. Also saw the track leading off to the right that you mention; I think the state park boundary begins right above it. Don't know who owns the property where your pictures were taken.
John
Re: Oregon Coast Trail: Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach
The day after Thanksgiving, I saw a couple starting out on this hike.
I was with my dog heading up to Onion Peak.
A lot of stories about Parodice Gardens, better related while hiking.
Arch Cape sunset, Saturday night
I was with my dog heading up to Onion Peak.
A lot of stories about Parodice Gardens, better related while hiking.
Re: Oregon Coast Trail: Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach
I stumbled across this thread while trying to figure out the origin of Parodice Gardens and thought I would post a clarification. The patch of plants you see between the bridge and the state park boundary on the west side of the trail is misidentified in your post. Daphne laureola, commonly called spurge laurel, is an invasive, toxic plant characterized by yellow-green flowers that are located under the leaves of the plant, and pale green berries that form by March. The berries then turn from pale green to black by early summer. http://www.oregon.gov/oda/shared/Docume ... rofile.pdfbobcat wrote:Thanks for the thums, Thum. Yes, from Arch Cape to Cape Falcon the trail is deserted, but from the Cape to Short Sand it was busy, busy!
As for the Parodice, I guess I missed it even though I passed that spot twice. Maybe I had my face buried in a clump of fungi at that exact spot. I did note that large patch of spurge-laurel (your second picture) - a noxious weed, by the way. Also saw the track leading off to the right that you mention; I think the state park boundary begins right above it. Don't know who owns the property where your pictures were taken.
John
The plant that is growing there is in fact Skimmia japonica subsp. reevesiana . It is a common cultivar in the Pacific Northwest, native to China and east Asia. It has not been classified as an invasive but is presumed to be toxic, especially the berries. https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu ... reevesiana
Given the young age of the trees in that area, I suspect the plants were once grown in a cleared nursery setting and have been allowed to proliferate. I could certainly be wrong about that, however.
I've attached a photo of a plant from that area, taken last week. Note the red berries.
Happy hiking!
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Re: Oregon Coast Trail: Arch Cape to Short Sand Beach
Hey, many thanks for the correction, gasgamar. Skimmia was way off my radar!