Bluff Mountain, all three ridges

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Chip Down
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Bluff Mountain, all three ridges

Post by Chip Down » June 3rd, 2018, 11:42 am

There are three well-defined ridges leading to the summit of Bluff Mountain (Silver Star area). I wanted to explore them all.

I started at the north, hiking to the saddle where the trail veers off the ridge and traverses under the eponymous bluffs. A little easy bushwhacking put me on the broad green ridgecrest, and a little ascending brought me to the rugged crenelated spine. It was almost as fun as I had hoped. Staying on crest wasn't possible for somebody with my skill, but that's okay; I was here for the scenery, not the five-point-whatever. At the times when I had to get off crest and bypass the tough stuff, it was a little more of a PITA than I had hoped for (gentle beargrassy slopes would have been nice). As often happens, when I got closer to the summit I struggled to understand the topography. I was too close to everything to grasp how it all fit together. So I scaled a bare knoll to look around and get my bearings. When I got to the top and looked around, I realized there was nothing higher in my immediate surroundings. This came as a surprise, because I was under the impression the top was forested and viewless. A couple high points that I had identified as summit candidates were actually along the undulating south ridge.

Down I went, continuing south, first along a broad green slope (not even much of a ridge, really) into a saddle, and up to the next high point, then along the jumbled lightly-forested south ridge to the next rocky viewpoint, from which I could barely make out the next through the trees. I had to weave around a lot to get through clearings, but passage was generally easy. The ridge became open and broad again, with a mix of low vegetation and occasional rocky spots that were great for mini breaks. Somewhat abruptly, the brush became higher and thicker; it was a struggle, and it only got worse. I was somewhat successful finding openings to follow, but of course, they didn't necessarily go the direction I needed. I was getting very discouraged. Part of what kept me going was the hope that from the bottom (the next and final saddle) I'd be able to look up at the slope I had just descended, and spot a smarter way back up. Nope, nothing encouraging. I knew I couldn't continue all the way up this ridge (continuing south) in this dense brush, but maybe if I could get over to mature forest, off ridgecrest, I'd find travel easier. But just getting to that zone would be a nightmare. My wild guess was I could get to my goal in 20 mins via trail (if there was one), but through this tangled mess it could take hours.

So back up I went, fighting for every yard, without gravity to help me push through as it had on the descent. Sweat was dripping into my eyes and even my ears, and I was filthy, covered with all manner of botanical detritus. By the time I reached the end of that horror, I had covered maybe 5% of the distance back to my car, but it was a great relief, and I knew the worst of my struggles were over. A relatively pleasant ascent brought me back to the summit. I had one ridge left, the least interesting, dropping from the summit to the west. It wasn't evident from the summit. I plunged into the brushy forest following the clearest spots, and lucked out when I spotted a snowpatch. I cleaned myself up a bit and luxuriated in a chilly snowy rubdown. A little lower, I spotted a vague ridge. As I followed it, I became convinced I had it right. Although things were brushy on both sides, the crest was generally clear and easy to follow. It got a little tricky in a couple spots, but I had the comfort of knowing the Bluff Mt trail was below to my right (north), so failure seemed unlikely. I spotted scraps of flagging on occasion, but not enough to be helpful (was reassuring though).

Sure enough, I eventually (later than expected) reached the broad open forest between Bluff and Baldy, and found the trail. Possibly the only time I've been here when it was bare. Lovely place, open forest under a spotty canopy, dappled with sunlight, beargrass here and there. Climbed towards Baldy and strolled the rocky traversing trail, then back, until I found the perfect grassy flowery spot for beer and a snack. Packed my brush gaiters and gave my feet a boot break. Perhaps a half dozen hikers went by, headed towards Bluff. These were the only hikers I saw all day. Well, unless you count the ones I could see on Silver Star.

The walk back through Bluff/Baldy forest was especially pleasant: downhill now, no time pressure (all goals completed), belly full o' beer. A recent report mentioned a trickle of water available, and it was still there. With the snow I had grabbed earlier, I was able to dump out the warm water I'd been carrying and refresh my bottle with cold water. When I reached the saddle north of the bluffs and had to face the rocky uphill road in the hot sun, it didn't bother me as much as I had been expecting. I picked a sustainable pace and just ground away at it without complaint. I felt a bit like the energizer bunny...or like myself at 30, when I would hike steep hills singing that REM song: "I am, I am, I am superman, and I can do anything".

At the trailhead, I was approached by some super-friendly curious charismatic talkative young guys, inquisitive about my hike and what's up there. I didn't even know what to say. I mean, it's a lot easier for hikers who can just say "yeah, I hiked the trail to Silver Star, it was great, you should do it!"

Overall, a really good day, except the horrible bushwhacking, but I guess if I hadn't persisted I always would have wondered.

No mosquitoes, no ticks, no poison oak, ahhh...just the constant drone of flies buzzing around. And lots of gunshots, of course. Oh, and hummingbirds, lots of 'em. Fun to watch; amazing how fast and agile they are. One of them hovered nearby and dropped a little "gift" for me, dangerously close to my beverage.

An afterthought: I was amazed to see Portland from one of my viewpoints. I've read SS is visible from Portland, but I've never been able to see Portland from SS. I could actually pick out specific structures: Fremont Bridge, Wells Fargo Tower (I still think of it as First Insterstate Tower), maybe the Kinder Morgan buildings at T5. It was surreal to look down at the Columbia River, and farther off in the distance was the Willamette, parallel. Look at the map and imagine a line running from Silver Star to Forest Park, and you'll see what I mean.
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A little gendarme on the north ridge, the first of many.
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The first really good rest spot of the day.
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A narrow short spur jutting off the north ridge afforded this nice vantage of the ridge.
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My favorite spot on the hike. This spot alone is a worthy destination. On a pleasant day (as this was) I could spend a couple hours here and not get tired of it.
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From the top of Bluff Mt, the south ridge looks fun and challenging. It was, but not quite what I imagined.
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On the south ridge, looking back at the summit. The rugged north ridge is on the right profile. Mt St Helens in distance (saw MSH, Adams, Rainier, Hood, Jeff, but not Sisters).
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A little farther down the south ridge, about at the point where Brush Hell began.
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Hikers on SS summit got a respite from the sun, courtesy of that lone cotton ball.
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Next ridge over is Baldy.
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Notice my goal is just barely on Weyerhaeuser property, but I doubt they'd send the dogs after me if they spotted me on that desolate ridgecrest on a Saturday.

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K.Wagner
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Re: Bluff Mountain, all three ridges

Post by K.Wagner » June 12th, 2018, 11:37 am

Chip Down,

A great TR! I went up the west ridge (didn't enjoy it very much) & down the east ridge (really enjoyed it!). While on the summit, I looked down the south ridge, and I already knew what the brush was like, so said: "Oh, look at that beautiful ridge, with all the brush on it! Sure glad I don't have to go down that way!".

Yes, your primary goal is on Weyerhaeuser land, but unless there is active logging going there, they would never know. (Shhhhhh, there is another way to get there).

Your secondary goal is a technical rock area known as Cathedral Rocks. Years ago (we won't say how many), I actually drove my Jeep up to those rocks.

Have you ever been on top of Little Baldy? It is my favorite summits in that group. The old trail route climbs up a hundred feet or so above the new, flat trail that traverses around it. Some day, I really want to do the NE ridge, starting at Copper Creek. Look at it on the satellite views.
Kelly
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PM me about the soon to be released:
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pablo
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Re: Bluff Mountain, all three ridges

Post by pablo » June 12th, 2018, 6:14 pm

Hey Chip,

Nice report, thx.

I did that one ridge where you turned around and the brush in the saddle there had to be some of the toughest I've ever encountered. Stuff does not bend. Good thing is the hard part only goes for about 1/4 mile as you go south and up out of the saddle as you gain some elevation game trails kick in and it is a lot easier to travel, still brushy, though.

--Paul
Last edited by pablo on June 12th, 2018, 6:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The future's uncertain and the end is always near.

pablo
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Re: Bluff Mountain, all three ridges

Post by pablo » June 12th, 2018, 6:17 pm

K.Wagner wrote:
June 12th, 2018, 11:37 am

Have you ever been on top of Little Baldy? It is my favorite summits in that group. The old trail route climbs up a hundred feet or so above the new, flat trail that traverses around it. Some day, I really want to do the NE ridge, starting at Copper Creek. Look at it on the satellite views.
I just did this about a month ago, there is flagging and trail most of the way to the top. Nice. At the start I did not get the creek crossings right and had to cross twice.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=26587

--Paul
The future's uncertain and the end is always near.

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Chip Down
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Re: Bluff Mountain, all three ridges

Post by Chip Down » June 12th, 2018, 6:29 pm

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

KW: Actually going south from the summit was sort of fun. Better than the west ridge. A guy just has to know when to turn back.

Yeah, the southern approach to my goal is pretty easy, and even looks like it might be scenic. But W. is pretty aggressive with the signage, and I think that area is being logged (seems like I saw equipment). And walking the approach roads past the gate looks boring.

Indeed, I'm pretty sure I've been to the top of Baldy, but I want to repeat Pablo's recent trip, so I'll be back.

Paul: I wonder if I should have kept going. Another 1/4 mile of that crap (times two, with the return) would be miserable.

I've wondered about finding the bottom of that Baldy route. It's a pretty indistinct ridge at that point. Any tips? I suppose as long as I can find my way up, I'll be okay. If I don't feel comfortable with the descent, I could retreat on Starway.

Oh, regarding the old Baldy trail: I never noticed, but it's pretty easy to spot on GE images. A whole bunch of other lines look like they could be unsanctioned routes.

pablo
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Re: Bluff Mountain, all three ridges

Post by pablo » June 12th, 2018, 10:44 pm

Chip Down wrote:
June 12th, 2018, 6:29 pm

Paul: I wonder if I should have kept going. Another 1/4 mile of that crap (times two, with the return) would be miserable.
I was doing a loop so I only had to do it once, twice would have been too much.
Chip Down wrote:
June 12th, 2018, 6:29 pm
I've wondered about finding the bottom of that Baldy route. It's a pretty indistinct ridge at that point. Any tips? I suppose as long as I can find my way up, I'll be okay. If I don't feel comfortable with the descent, I could retreat on Starway.
You won't have a problem what with the flagging and all; there is a road that crosses the ridge that will take you back properly - the road shows up on older topos. There are some mines up the aptly name Miners Creek, I've never been there.
Chip Down wrote:
June 12th, 2018, 6:29 pm
Oh, regarding the old Baldy trail: I never noticed, but it's pretty easy to spot on GE images. A whole bunch of other lines look like they could be unsanctioned routes.
I noticed these and initially I thought game trail but some might be human made - definitely trail on ridge in spots.

--Paul
The future's uncertain and the end is always near.

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K.Wagner
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Re: Bluff Mountain, all three ridges

Post by K.Wagner » June 13th, 2018, 5:01 am

Paul,

Thanks for the link to your Little Baldy TR. Don't know how I missed it.
Kelly
There is no shortcut to anyplace worth going to.

PM me about the soon to be released:
Skamania 231
"How to really get off the beaten path in Skamania County"

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Chip Down
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Re: Bluff Mountain, all three ridges

Post by Chip Down » October 16th, 2021, 10:01 pm

K.Wagner wrote:
June 12th, 2018, 11:37 am
Your secondary goal is a technical rock area known as Cathedral Rocks. Years ago (we won't say how many), I actually drove my Jeep up to those rocks.
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