Climbing Holly's Ridge and Howlock Mountain

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Charley
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Climbing Holly's Ridge and Howlock Mountain

Post by Charley » July 18th, 2017, 8:12 am

I'm working on climbing Oregon's 100 highest peaks. A helpful list can be found here:http://www.glassmountains.com/clm_or100.html

A number of the peaks are in the Cascades, and, as these destinations are closer than most (a plurality of the 100 peaks are high up in the Wallowas, far out by car, and far up by trail), I'm whittling down the Cascade peaks a little faster. Two of them are Howlock Mountain and Holly's Ridge, near Mt Thielsen and Diamond Lake.

I had hoped for snow-free conditions (snow adds an unpredictable element to mountain trips that I prefer to avoid, unless, of course, I'm ski mountaineering on a normal ski route), but, after getting snow updates from helpful Oregon Hikers, my friend and I decided to call it a "snow climb" and take ice axes, crampons, and helmets. We briefly used the helmets (for rockfall protection), but ice axes and crampons were unnecessary. In fact, I think this particular route might benefit from snow cover, because, in places, snow travel was faster than wading through brushy, alpine white-bark pine.

Here's a link to a gmaps pedometer route I've created that shows the planned route, which we followed pretty closely. 

http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=7103258

Here's our route:
Gmaps Route.jpg
We hiked up to Thielsen Camp from the Howlock Trailhead. Under the highway and through the woods:
IMG_3434.jpg
Shortly after the trail became mostly obscured by snow drifts, we stopped at Thielsen Camp, and enjoyed views of Mt Thielsen, almost directly overhead. We also found a bit of open creek, where we filtered water; we arrived at camp so early that we decided to hike on up to camp on the flat at Holly's Ridge.
IMG_3450.jpg
We hiked up through the trees, following the route that looked best from Google Satellite imagery, which turned out to be steep but luckily quite shady, because the day was hot at this point. We got a look at the ridgeline from one vantage along our ascent.
IMG_3452.jpg
Holly's Ridge was excellent walking, sometimes in small trees, sometimes along pumice flats:
IMG_3457.jpg
IMG_3464.jpg
We made camp at the large, flat saddle, and enjoyed views of our route towards Howlock Mountain for the following day...
IMG_3487.jpg
... as well as views of Mt Thielsen (which, we had keep reminding ourselves, we'd climbed years before, from its other side):
Howlock-Tipsoo (1).jpg
After dinner, we casually walked up to the summit of Holly's Ridge, in increasingly windy conditions:
IMG_3512.jpg
From the summit of Holly's Ridge, we had more great views of Thielsen:
IMG_3516.jpg
It was an eventful night: my climbing partner had to take down her tent at about 1am because the strong wind threatened to knock it down. It was the windiest camp I've ever enjoyed, though I was mostly protected by not using a tent or tarp, and by setting out my bag in the lee of a white-bark pine:
Howlock-Tipsoo.jpg
After rising, we had more great views of, you guessed right, Mt Thielsen:
IMG_3537.jpg
I overestimated the amount of time our off-trail travel would require, so we rose early and got on the way quickly. Walking the ridge between Holly's and Howlock was a real joy: a perfectly lovely high elevation romp, with no difficulties or navigational problems:
IMG_3542.jpg
The last push up to the Pinnacle of Howlock was slow going in soft pumice soil:
IMG_3546.jpg
After lightening our packs at a convenient rock near the southern toe of the Pinnacle, we scrambled up to the summit, which we think is the highest of Howlock's several summits (more beta below, for those who are interested in tagging these little known peaks):
IMG_3548.jpg
Last edited by Charley on July 18th, 2017, 9:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
Believe it or not, I barely ever ride a mountain bike.

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Charley
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Re: Climbing Holly's Ridge and Howlock Mountain

Post by Charley » July 18th, 2017, 9:50 am

We returned to our packs, then hiked up the East Peak, just to make sure it was not higher (it does not appear to be), where we found a summit register and enjoyed a celebrity sighting:
IMG_4366.jpg
We enjoyed views of the of our ridgeline route and the Pinnacle...
Howlock-Tipsoo (4).jpg
Howlock-Tipsoo (3).jpg
Howlock-Tipsoo (2).jpg
Then we hiked over to the saddle above Howlock Meadows, and hiked down to the PCT, where we found a few thru-hikers braving the snow. We hiked off trail back down to the Howlock Mtn Trail and out to the car. We had an excellent, compact mountain adventure. For climbers, the Pinnacle adds some excitement. For adventurous hikers, the trip to Holly's Ridge allows one an-up front view of Thielsen and an uncrowded, walkable summit with excellent views.

Climbing beta:

There's not much clear, concise information about climbing Howlock and Holly's Ridge out there. I hope this helps. All off trail terrain on our route was 1st or 2nd class, except for the summit pinnacle of Howlock, which I'd rate at a relatively low 3rd class. Your mileage may vary.

1. In contradiction to the elevations stated on the USGS quad, I cannot see how it's possible that the East Peak of Howlock is higher than the central pinnacle summit. The East Peak did not appear higher from either summit; they are very close in height and close on the ground, and I recommend an ascent of both. Here's Google Satellite image of the area:
Howlock Mtn Approach Route.jpg
2. An ascent of the pinnacle is certainly possible. The safest route seeks a balance between exposure and loose rock.
HOWLOCKSATELLITE.png
a. From the hillside just to the South of the Pinnacle, curve around the Pinnacle just below its west face, keeping the worst loose rock on the left,
downhill. On the uphill side, there are more solid rocks to hold on to with your right hand. Here's an image of the terrain at the traverse:
Howlock-Tipsoo (5).jpg
Here's a picture from below of the general idea of the route:
HowlockPinnacleBeta.png
Believe it or not, it's not that bad up by the solid rocks of the pinnacle, but lower, to the left, there's just loose, loose rock, though the exposure is
less steep.

b. Traverse around the West Face at the base of the Pinnacle until you've gone all the way around the Pinnacle, and almost met the dirt on the
ridge on its North side.

The end of the traverse:
Howlock Ramp.png
c. From the ridge on the North side of the Pinnacle, there's a relatively obvious ramp of slightly less exposed, less loose rock, that leads up to the
summit, on the Pinnacle's West face. (It's possible to reach that ramp from the west face, but it's a looser path). Look for a ramp leading back
south
and uphill. From that path, it looks like this:
Howlock Ramp.png
Follow the ramp south, then north for a few feet to the summit:
SummitBeta.png
3. Holly's Ridge was fun, and, as Beckey says, "No difficulties."
Holly's Ridge Aerial Route.jpg
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Bosterson
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Re: Climbing Holly's Ridge and Howlock Mountain

Post by Bosterson » July 18th, 2017, 7:04 pm

Image
:shock:

I've climbed it too, and it's definitely difficult to reconcile how crazy that looks with how easy it is to get atop it!

Re: "no difficulties" per Beckey, I think a friend and I once decided that Sierra Class 4, which under the late 1930s definitions goes up to around 5.4-5.6, is equivalent to Beckey Class 2. :lol:

Nice looking little scramble route! Good to see that it more resembles the larger dinner plate talus on Thielsen than the graveley volcanic scree slopes of the central volcanoes. Was any of it solid, or was it one of those "swimming up moving shale" type of deals?
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Don Nelsen
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Re: Climbing Holly's Ridge and Howlock Mountain

Post by Don Nelsen » July 19th, 2017, 3:58 pm

Charley,

Thanks for the great TR and photos! I really appreciate the detailed route description too. I was unable to ascend the pinnacle last year mostly due to 50 mph winds that threatened to knock me over as I started up the loose traverse part. I wasn't sure if I was on the best route either so now I know. Also, I did the old "water bottle" level method from the east ridge and am sure the pinnacle is about 30 feet higher than where the register is located.

Here's a photo of the dinner plate on the east ridge - about the loosest stuff I've ever seen!:
Image

-don
"Everything works in the planning stage" - Kelly

"If you don't do it this year, you will be one year older when you do" - Warren Miller

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Chip Down
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Re: Climbing Holly's Ridge and Howlock Mountain

Post by Chip Down » July 19th, 2017, 7:40 pm

What fun! :D

Re the appearance of Thielsen vs the reality of climbing it: I first saw it when I went to climb it from a written description. See, this was in the pre-www era, so pictures of Mt T weren't super common. When I first saw it, I muttered "Mom's gonna be really mad when I fall off that thing and kill myself." Of course, it turned out to be pretty simple.

Re "dinner plates": I can't see that description without remembering the terror of the NE shoulder on Prouty Pinnacle (North Sister summit). (I didn't even try; was expecting snow coverage.)

Cool "celebrity sighting". :lol:

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