Nesika Lodge and Bickel Point via Waespe Point direct

[Chip Down]

Saturday forecast called for 40% chance of light snow, but it drizzled on the drive east from Troutdale, all the way to Oneonta. Oneonta TH was tough to get to, owing to the snowplow berm, but I found a nearby bare spot on the shoulder where I could fit my car. I was dressed for snow showers, not rain, but by 8:00 it had stopped briefly, and I started out.

Headed west on 400, past the junction where most turn left/east to head to Oneonta. At the creek just west of the junction, I turned upstream to check out the frozen waterfall. From the bottom, I went east a ways and worked my way up as high as I could get. That was a fun diversion. Instead of dropping back to 400, I traversed west and headed into the gully that runs between Waespe and Bickel. Crampon time. I resisted, but it was getting to be a hassle kicking and scraping each step.

Visibility was poor, and I wasn't sure I was in the right place, but I was expecting just one breach in the cliffs, so I figured I had to be on route. Stayed west/right looking for fun scrambling opportunities, but the frequent bombardment with ice/rocks spooked me. Worst one was a football sized rock that sailed past almost silently. So got away from the cliffs and into the gully proper. It wasn't very interesting, so I headed east as soon as I saw an opportunity to get out of the gully and onto the ridge that leads to Waespe Point.

When I got to the ridgecrest I discovered it was surprisingly crisp and narrow, dropping off the east side. I could hear/see the creek that fed the waterfall I had explored earlier. I knew it had to be over there, but didn't expect it to be so close. Wanted to explore, but figured I didn't have time. By the end of the day, I knew I was right. So followed the undulating ridge north to the poorly-defined viewpoint, then returned to the point where I had gained the ridgecrest, and continued up. It was a nice climb, not too brushy, easy to follow. But the ridgecrest abruptly ended, fading into the hillside. Hmm. Got my umbrella out and stood under it as I had a little snack and pondered my options. With visibility as poor as it was, I wasn't going to head off XC in search of Bickel.

Dropped back down the ridge and retraced my steps into the gully, which I then ascended. Horribly inefficient, but at every moment I knew exactly how to get back to my car, and that security meant a lot to me. As I ascended the gully, I veered west/right, because I knew the ridge on the other side had been unproductive. Soon, I was able to get out of the gully and onto a ridge that curved steeply to the east. Had no idea where I was, but figured "up" was as good a plan as any, and it was a fun pleasant route. Surprisingly, views opened up to the south/west. A ridge flowed into my route from the west, and I flagged a tree as reminder that I shouldn't follow that ridge west on the descent (ground was nearly bare here, so couldn't rely on footprints). I continued up, curving eastish.

As the ridgecrest broadened and flattened, I saw what looked like a trail! Yep, sure enough. I was shocked when I arrived precisely at a three way junction. What are the odds? A you can imagine, my spirits soared. I didn't know where I was, but I knew I couldn't be far from my goal. Picked one of the three trails on a whim, and in just a few yards I was at a grey viewless Bickel. The snow was nearly deep enough to swallow the benches and the stone wall. Couldn't see anything, so headed over to Nesika Lodge. Felt great to finally have a dry place to sit and relax and sort/repack my gear. The clouds started to clear a bit, and I had some scenery and a nice place to rest. It was cold though, and soon I had to move on. I was planning to explore the trails toward Multnomah Creek and go down that way, but realized it would be smarter to get back down as soon as possible. If I were to lose a trail in the snow with an hour of light left, it could be scary. I headed back to Bickel, where it was finally clear enough to see where I had been. I realized how close I'd been on that ridge earlier, and realized that when I was ascending the gully I should have stayed left/east until it topped out. That's okay though, the low clouds made for a bit more challenge and adventure.

On the way down I stuck to my ascent route, resisting the temptation to explore. I knew there was only one way down; everything else probably cliffs out. But when I was halfway down, when I turned and looked back up to see if I could spot Bickel, I was able to see something I didn't know was there, something I couldn't see on my cloudy ascent: the creek that runs through the gully (dry/frozen now) drops into a little amphitheater, and there were a couple falls, completely frozen. I had to go check it out, even though I knew it meant I might end up having to descend XC in the dark. Got as high as I felt comfortable with, and finally realized it just wasn't worth more time to get a little closer. I was high enough to see that there wasn't anything more to see, so there was really no point in getting higher/closer.

Dropped down to 400 as fast as possible, glissading when I could (had to keep it slow, because snow conditions were bad, but it was fun anyway). A few yards from the TH, with just a few minutes of dusk left, I encountered a couple ahead of me who seemed to be struggling with an icy section of trail, so I just dropped down a few yards of soft snow to safely get to the highway. Arrived at my car in the dark, as wet and dirty as I can remember ever getting on a winter hike.

Pics posted in reverse order, because I forgot.

[Chip Down]

Route in yellow is just my rough guess. Wish I knew where I turned back on that ridge, but wasn't carrying GPS. Blue line is waterfall/cascades.

[Chip Down]

oh, forgot to post this weirdness:

[Peder]

Fun to see that done with snow!

[Chip Down]

Hi Peder. Yes, it's a rare TR, isn't it? I can't be the first to do this in winter, but probably the first to post a TR of a winter direct ascent. What fun! Memory tells me you've done this hike.

[mandrake]

Nice report, CD. The route you came up is called the Fire Escape - emergency escape route from Nesika in the event of wildfire.

[Chip Down]

Nice report, CD. The route you came up is called the Fire Escape - emergency escape route from Nesika in the event of wildfire.

Oh, of course! I've head of the Fire Escape. I should have known that was it, as it seems to be the only nearby safe breach in the cliffs.

[Eric Peterson]

Pretty sure the real Fire Escape route is on the west side of Bickel. I could be wrong though.

Saw that old rusty storage locker years ago when I came up your way, guessing it was tossed from a Nesika remodel by kids...

[Guy]

Pretty sure the real Fire Escape route is on the west side of Bickel. I could be wrong though.

Saw that old rusty storage locker years ago when I came up your way, guessing it was tossed from a Nesika remodel by kids...

Correct it is Eric, though from the posted image it looks like part of Chips route was on the Fire Escape. This pic is a few years old but the sign is still there.

[Chip Down]

Seems like every hike just adds to my to-do list. Now I have to go looking for the fire-escape route. (I know, it's terrible )