Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel

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bobcat
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Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel

Post by bobcat » December 2nd, 2015, 7:21 pm

I biked (not hiked) the entire Crown Zellerbach Trail, from the Columbia River at Scappoose to Vernonia, in a couple of stages recently. The day after Thanksgiving, I did the second section from the Nehalem Divide to Vernonia and back.

I got off my bike to do the short scramble down to the west portal of the railroad tunnel (about 3/4 mile from the highway) that is now on the National Register of Historic Places but has been left to rot. There's actually a trail, unmarked, but if you can find it the tread will take you there. The tunnel, carved as it was through soft seafloor sandstone, had to be buttressed and completely framed with timber, but the entire ceiling and most of the wall timbers have collapsed. There are large breakdowns in the middle. I could see the glimmer of the east portal, but did not venture far into the tunnel as I did not have a hard hat or caver-level lighting.
West Portal, Nehalem Divide Tunnel.jpg
Inside the Nehalem Divide Tunnel.jpg
Looking down the East Fork Nehalem from the Nehalem Divide Tunnel.jpg
On Sunday, I convinced my wife that we had to find the east portal, so we drove the Scappoose-Vernonia highway to the divide and hiked down about 0.6 miles before I saw a "sign" that indicated a user route that thrashes through big sword ferns and then over an overgrown embankment on North Scappoose Creek.
'Sign' for the east portal, Crown Zellerbach Trail.jpg
Among the ferns, Crown Zellerbach Trail.jpg
East Portal, Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel.jpg
At the East Portal, Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel.jpg
Looking up the tunnel, East Portal, Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel.jpg
Logging operations via rail had their beginnings here in 1906 when Fred and Simcoe Chapman constructed the Portland & Southwestern Railroad in stages, logging as they went. As they moved higher into the hills, the Chapmans faced difficulties and sold out to Henry Turrish. One massive endeavor was tunneling through the Nehalem Divide, an unusual undertaking of great expense for a mere logging railroad. The 1,712-foot tunnel was completed in 1920 but not before the Nehalem Timber and Logging company took over operations. Clarke & Wilson succeeded Nehalem Timber and then the former sold to Crown Zellerbach in 1944: Crown Zellerbach took up the tracks and used much of the alignment as a logging road, detouring up and over the divide as the trucks could not use the tunnel, which then fell into disrepair. Later, Hancock Timber became the owners and used the route to a lesser degree. Throughout the 1990s, Columbia County was in negotiations with Hancock over purchase of the road. The route eventually became public property in 2004 and a master plan for public use (hiking, biking, horse riding) was conceived under the moniker 'Crown Zellerbach Trail.'

Again, there's a lot of collapse in the tunnel: it can still be traversed, but at some risk. The area around the tunnel itself is actually BLM land although private property abuts most of the remainder of the Crown Zellerbach Trail.

forestkeeper
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Re: Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel

Post by forestkeeper » December 2nd, 2015, 8:02 pm

:) How cool!!! Awesome post! I wonder if any foreigners died when constructing the tunnel. Thanks Bobcat for your awesome exploration.

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miah66
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Re: Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel

Post by miah66 » December 3rd, 2015, 7:47 am

Awesome! I love to hike and bike! Is that trail mostly on smooth surface or do you need a mountain bike to do it? How many miles?
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bobcat
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Re: Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel

Post by bobcat » December 3rd, 2015, 2:24 pm

miah66 wrote:Awesome! I love to hike and bike! Is that trail mostly on smooth surface or do you need a mountain bike to do it? How many miles?
The trail is about 24 miles one-way from Chapman Landing to Vernonia Lake. There are several trailheads since it runs close to the highway, some are signed, some not. The trail surface is old broken pavement to Chapman and then gravel/grassy gravel/leaf-littered gravel from there. All creeks are bridged, either with new bridges or the old logging road bridges. Some stretches are well-removed from the highway and forested, others run right next to it. I'd strongly recommend 1" tires, but you don't need a mountain bike.

The last part of the trail departs from the old rail line/logging road at Elk Creek (near the site of Camp 8, a logging town). It takes the Pebble Creek Mainline through Weyerhauser-planted hills and then spins off down to the end of Knott Street in Vernonia. From there it's 1 1/2 miles via roads to Vernonia Lake.

The plan is to have the trail continue on the Pebble Creek Mainline down to Coon Creek Road and build a bridge over the Nehalem River to connect with the walk-in camping area at Vernonia Lake. They're working on the Mainline right now clearing slides: I tried it but there's nothing worse than riding a bike downhill on frozen mud rippling with cat tracks. Not sure when the river bridge is coming in.

You can find some information online from others who have done the trail.

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miah66
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Re: Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel

Post by miah66 » December 3rd, 2015, 3:28 pm

I wonder if they plan on connecting it to the fantastic Banks-Vernonia Trail? It seems only a short distance away if it connects to Vernonia Lake.
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bobcat
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Re: Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel

Post by bobcat » December 3rd, 2015, 6:29 pm

miah66 wrote:I wonder if they plan on connecting it to the fantastic Banks-Vernonia Trail? It seems only a short distance away if it connects to Vernonia Lake.
Yep. That's the idea. It would make about 46 miles one-way on trails - from Vernonia Lake all paved of course. Cyclists could do it as a long loop from Portland (using Highways 30 and 26 coming and going) or camp overnight at Scaponia Park, Vernonia Lake, or the Stub Stewart walk-in campground.

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miah66
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Re: Nehalem Divide Railroad Tunnel

Post by miah66 » September 27th, 2017, 12:15 pm

Update: Finally got around to riding the trail this past weekend! It was alot of fun! I really enjoyed the ride. 44 miles from Chapman landing. I didn't make the connection into Vernonia, however. I was turning back and the prospect of riding back up the steep hill where the trail kind of "dies" at a power line / natural gas cut was not inviting. Too bad Vernonia just doesn't seem interested in connecting to this trail. I saw no signs of an updated alignment. In fact, it seems they just cut a ditch, piled up dirt to keep ATV's and 4x4's out and left the trail to be an afterthought. I hope they decide to make something out of this trail, as it seems to be a real gem.

I did not explore the side use trails that go to the waterfalls, or the railroad tunnels.
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